Eep! There’s a knot in my yarn! Help is here…

February 28, 2012
What to Do When You Find a Knot in Your Yarn - tips from Shiny Happy World and FreshStitches

Yippee! Another Tip Tuesday, where I share (what I hope is) a super-helpful crocheting tip. Today, I’m going to talk you through what to do when you arrive at an oh-so-pesky knot in your yarn.

Knots in yarn are a part of life. Even in commercial yarns, knots occur when the manufacturer needs to join two (very long) lengths of yarn together. Unfortunately, that knot has to go somewhere – and sometimes it’s your skein! But fear not- I’ll show you a couple ways of handling it.

Option 1: Check if the yarn is actually broken

Sometimes, there’s a knot in your skein because the yarn has gotten a bit tangled.

I’m not sure if you can tell from the photo, but this knot is just a tangle- there’s no break in the yarn. Gently work to untie the knot, and you can just keep on crocheting! Like nothing ever happened!

Option 2: Continue crocheting with the knot in place

What if you’re not so lucky and there is actually a break in your yarn?

Sometimes, you can keep right on crocheting! You can see here, I’ve crocheted until I’m at the knot:

Can you tell that the knot is very close to my hook? That’s a good sign! It means that I’ll be able to crochet right over the knot, and just push the knot to the wrong side of my work.

To do this, I continue crocheting- coaxing the knot to stay on the wrong side of my work:

And the right side looks marvelous!

Crocheting over the knot only works if:

  • The knot happens to fall in the right place while crocheting. A centimeter further along, and it might end up smack in the middle of your stitch. Bleh.
  • You don’t mind having a knot in the back of your work. I make a lot of stuffed animals, so I don’t mind (the inside gets stuffed). But if you’re making a shawl, this may not be ideal.

So what if crocheting over the knot doesn’t work? Onto option 3…

Option 3: Cut the knot

If the knot happens in a funny place (so that you can’t hide it on the back of your work) or you don’t want a knot, then you’ll need to cut the knot.

To do this, stop crocheting a few inches before you get to the knot, and cut the knot off:

Now you have no knot, but two pieces of yarn. From now on, you’re going to work as if you’re changing colors… but you’re really just changing yarns!

As if you’re about to change colors (check out this video on color changes if you’re unfamiliar), begin working with your new yarn:

and continue working with the new yarn.

You’ll have 2″ or so of tails (one from each piece of yarn) on the wrong side of your work… and you’ll want to handle them the way that suits your project best. For a stuffed animal, I would tie a knot:

If you’re making a shawl or another piece where you don’t want a knot, you’d want to weave the tails in to secure.

And that’s it! No matter where the knot turns up, now you know how to tackle it!

Here are handy links to all the posts about yarn. . .

Return to the main table of contents for Let’s Learn to Crochet Amigurumi.

Move on to the lessons for the basic crochet stitches.

Happy stitching!

Crocheting in Rounds: free download

February 25, 2012

Crochet in the Round - free patterns for basic shapes from Shiny Happy World

I love crocheting in the round! It’s easy to crochet circles… but also squares! I’ve put together this easy reference guide to get you started crocheting circles, squares and granny squares:

Download the pdf version of the guide by clicking here.
What can you actually do with these patterns? Lots! Here are a few ideas:

  • Crochet a hat. Make a circle, and continue increasing until the circumference of the circle is about the circumference of your head. Work plain rounds until it’s long enough to be a hat!
  • Crochet an awesome rainbow rug. Pick a super-bulky yarn (or fabric strips) in bright colors. Crochet a circle, changing colors every few rounds. Continue until it’s the size you want!
  • Crochet a washcloth. Pick a cotton yarn. Crochet a square, and keep going until it’s a handy washcloth size.
  • Make a pillow. Use either the square or granny square patterns to make 2 equal-sized squares. Stick a pillow insert between the two squares, sew up around the edges- and you have a great pillow!
  • Crochet an afghan. Work the granny square pattern until it’s the size you like for a blanket.

These are just a couple of ideas… the possibilities are endless!

How do I enlarge and reduce digital patterns?

February 22, 2012
How to Enlarge or Reduce a Digital Pattern

I get a lot of questions about enlarging and reducing the size of embroidery patterns. Here’s one from Holly. . .

I purchased your cat embroidery pattern and I totally dig it. Those kitties are great. It turns out my girl, who is 6 and very fond of felines, is pretty handy with a needle and thread. I wonder if there’s an easy way to biggen the picture? She’d have more success, I think, with a little bit larger deal. I’ve tried opening it in a photo editor thingy, but to no avail, since it’s a pdf…. is that on purpose? Or maybe I’m not doing it right?

Good question! One of the things I love about embroidery patterns is that they’re really versatile. See the dog in the photo? That was a teeny-tiny pattern (2 inches square from this collection) that I enlarged and stitched on a T-shirt for my daughter. I could also have turned it into an applique pattern, or used it for woodburning, painting, collage, etc. Buy one pattern, use it a kajillion times – that’s my motto. 🙂

And one of the things I love about digital patterns is that’s it’s really easy to enlarge and reduce your pattern without going to the copy shop (for me that’s over an hour away).

Important note! These instructions only work for patterns without seam allowance! So you can use them for embroidery and applique patterns, but not stuffed animal patterns. Pop over to this post for special instructions on enlarging and reducing patterns with seam allowance. 

Of course, if tech-speak makes your eyes glaze over please just print out your pattern and enlarge or reduce as necessary on a copy machine. But if you want to do it on your computer, here’s some help.

First – a warning. These are going to be pretty general instructions because I assume you all have different software. But the general steps should work no matter what program you use. If you need specifics for your software – with helpful screenshots or even a video – google something like “opening a PDF in Photoshop” or whatever your photo editing program is. I use Gimp, which is free and awesome. It’s not always super intuitive, but there are lots of terrific tutorials on YouTube teaching you how to use it.

Ready?

1. DON’T open the image as a PDF. Instead save the PDF to your computer.

2. Open whatever photo editing software you use.

3. Now inside your photo editing program, open the PDF file of your pattern.

Opening a PDF in a photo editing program will usually involve some kind of importing command. Most programs will pop up with some sort of window saying, “Whoa! Hold on there Missy! You can’t just open a PDF all willy-nilly in this program! You have to import it.” It will probably prompt you to choose which page of the PDF you want to import and at what resolution. If you can, choose just the page with the pattern you want, and set the resolution pretty high (like 300 dpi). That will import the page as a picture, which will allow you to play with it. Neat!

4. Now you should see that full pattern page as a single image. It’s going to include the full page, with lots of white space, my title, the Shiny Happy World link in the footer, and the entire pattern. Crop away any parts of the page you don’t want. For Holly, she may want to crop away all but one of the cats. If you’re enlarging one of the birds from the bird sampler to stitch on a T-shirt, you may want to isolate just one bird. Crop away anything you don’t want.

5. Time to resize. Use the scale image command to adjust the image to the size you want.

6. Save your new image.

7. Print!

Like I said, these are general instructions and you may need to play around with your computer a bit to find the exact commands you need, but this should give you enough guidance to get there. If anyone else has helpful suggestions, please add them in the comments!

Don’t forget! If you enlarge or reduce the image you’re stitching, you’re also going to need more or fewer strands of floss than what the pattern calls for. Hop over to this post for more info about how many strands to use in any project.

Here are all my posts about working with patterns.

Pattern Sources

How to Resize a Pattern

Return to the Learn to Embroider main Table of Contents.

Move on to the posts about knots. Yes – a whole section about knots. 🙂

How to get an even stitch and gauge in crochet

February 21, 2012

Happy Tip Tuesday! Today, I’m going to share my trick with you for getting a lovely, even gauge when you crochet.

Grab your yarn and hook, and follow along!

Step 1: Make sure your loop is on the shaft of the hook. This is where the hook size is measured, so it’s where you’ll want to put your yarn to get the appropriately-sized stitch.

Don’t know where the shaft is? Don’t worry! Check out this crochet hook anatomy lesson! It’s basically the even cylinder above the handle. If you pull your loop tight around the throat (the skinny part near the hook), you’re going to get too-tight stitches.

Step 2: Look for the teardrop-shape. What teardrop shape? Take a look at your hook head-on. The loop should look like an upside-down teardrop that fits snugly around your hook.

Do you see it?

Why is the upside-down teardrop shape so important? Because you’ll need that point to slide the hook through while stitching!

See how my hook is sliding through? If your loop is a perfect circle (strangling the poor hook!), then your hook is probably going to get caught on your loop as you try to pull yarn through- making crocheting very frustrating!

Step 3: Check for the teardrop at every step. Look at me! I’m single crocheting!

Now, take a look at my loops… still in the teardrop shape! To get a nice, even gauge, you’ll want to check these loops to make sure they are the right shape at every step. A lot of beginning crocheters let their stitches get super huge (a non-snug teardrop) while they’re in the middle of the stitch, which leads to very loose stitches.

Follow these three steps, and you’ll get beautiful, even stitches every time! Rock on, teardrop!

Oatmeal Bath Scrub – Heal Your Itchy Winter Skin

February 20, 2012
Soothe itchy skin with an easy oatmeal bath scrub
‘Tis the season for dry, itchy skin. For me, an oatmeal bath is the answer. You can just dump some oatmeal in the water, but I don’t really like to lay on the oatmeal bits, so I make these oatmeal bath scrubs. 🙂 They’re inexpensive and easy and very soothing.

First, for each scrubbie cut two 4 inch squares of fabric. I usually use super cheap cotton muslin – the cheapest I can find. Or use some really ugly cotton fabric out of your stash. (How does that stuff get in there?)

Soothe itchy skin with an easy oatmeal bath scrub

Sew the two pieces together around three sides. I use a 1/4 inch seam allowance, but it doesn’t really matter.

Fill each bag with 1/4 cup of old-fashioned oatmeal. Sew it together across the top.

Soothe itchy skin with an easy oatmeal bath scrub

Voila! You have a finished oatmeal bath scrub.

I usually make a bunch of these at one time – I can make about a dozen in 15 minutes. They’re terrific for any itchy skin issues. Toss one in the tub while it fills. Let the water pound down on it for a little while to mash out the oatmeal goodness. Once I get in the bath I also squeeze the bag every once in a while. Just having the stuff in the water is good, but it’s also great to rub the scrubbie directly on any itchy places. It helps sooth poison ivy, sunburn, dry skin, allergic reactions, and more. Last summer my daughter “forgot” that she was allergic to grass and repeatedly rolled down a freshly-mowed hill wearing a tank top and shorts. She was covered with itchy red welts, but one bath with an oatmeal scrubbie took care of it.

These oatmeal bath scrubs make terrific gifts too. Make a bunch for a friend when you’re making some for yourself. 🙂

Enjoy! And have a great week!

Best,
Wendi
Applique Wendi (with fabulous hat)

A Crocheter’s Guide to Pattern Reading- free download

February 19, 2012
How to Read a Crochet Pattern - from Shiny Happy World and FreshStitches

Do you know how to crochet, but feel like patterns are a foreign language? You’re not alone!

Many of us crocheters learn how to do the stitches from a family member or friend, and don’t learn to read the patterns until much later. And it’s true, reading a pattern can be scary… but well worth learning how! Once you can read crochet patterns, you’ll be able to make anything!

The patterns you find here at Shiny Happy World are written in a little more “plain English” than you may see elsewhere – but we still use abbreviations and common conventions. I’ll walk you through the instructions for making Howie the Penguin’s wings below. (Howie is a free pattern you can find here.)

The instructions are in regular black text. The “translation” is below it in pink. 🙂 If there’s a link in the translation, that’s taking you to a tutorial demonstrating that skill.

Wings

Make 2.

This is just telling you that you need to make two wings. Make one from start to finish – then make a second one just like it.

With MC, ch 2

With the main color of yarn, chain two.

Round 1 sc 6 times in 2nd ch from hook (6)

The instructions number each round in the project. Single crochet 6 times in the second chain from the hook. The 6 in parentheses tells you that there are 6 total stitches in this round.

Round 2 sc twice in each st (12)

Single crochet twice in each stitch (that’s an increase), for a total of 12 stitches in round 2.

Rounds 3-4 sc in each st (12, 2 rounds)

This line of instructions applies to two rounds. Single crochet in each stitch for a total of twelve stitches, and repeat for a total of two rounds.

Round 5 [sc twice in next st, sc in next st] 6 times (18)

These brackets look scary, but they’re actually easy. They just tell you that everything in the brackets will be repeated. So for round 5, single crochet twice in the next stitch, then single crochet one in the next stitch. Repeat that sequence [single crochet twice in the next stitch, then single crochet once in the next stitch] for a total of 6 times. It will be a total of 18 stitches in the round.

Rounds 6-9 sc in each st (18, 4 rounds)

Single crochet in each stitch for a total of 18 stitches in the round. And repeat that round for a total of 4 rounds.

Round 10 [sc2tog, sc in next st] 6 times (12)

Single crochet 2 together (that’s a decrease), and then single crochet in the next stitch. Repeat that sequence for a total of 6 times. There should be 12 stitches total in the round.

Fasten off with long tail.

You’re done! Fasten off, but don’t cut your yarn short. Leave a tail of at least a foot.

That one little pattern for a wing includes most of the major conventions you’ll run into in patterns. It has starting, fastening off, increasing, decreasing, repeating sections, and repeating rows. Beyond that – or for patterns from other companies who abbreviate a bit more or use different abbreviations – this tip sheet will help you out a lot.

Click here to download this page as a pdf (much better resolution)!

Now that you can read crochet patterns, what are you going to make?

Here are handy links to all the posts about working with crochet patterns. . .

Return to the main table of contents for Let’s Learn to Crochet Amigurumi.

Move on to the lessons for working the first round of your crochet pattern.

Happy stitching!

Mosman Needlecraft: Sydney, NSW, Australia

February 18, 2012

  • store: Mosman Needlecraft
  • address: Shop 3, 529 Military Road, Mosman, NSW 2088 Australia
  • website: www.mosmanneedlecraft.com.au/
  • date of visit: January, 2012

If you’ve read my previous posts about Australian yarn stores, you have probably heard me lament that they aren’t quite the same as American yarn stores. A typical Aussie ‘wool shop’ (and trust me, relatives have sent me to many of them!) has: no table for knitting, scratchy yarn with a limited selection and owners who look at you as if you have two heads if you mention ‘Ravelry’. Sigh.

With that as background, I have to announce: I love Mosman Needlecraft! The store is beautiful and spacious. They’re stocked with beautiful and amazing yarns… even hand-dyed yarns! There’s even a table where you can come in to sit and knit!

The owners are super-friendly, love their yarn and are on Ravelry! They’re up to date with the latest patterns! They even ask what yarn interests you and look into ordering it! Swoon…

You’ll find pretty much everything you could be looking for: Berocco, Claudia Handpainted, Debbie Bliss, Jade Sapphire, Madeline Tosh, Malabrigo, Rowan… I could keep going. They’re also fully stocked with pattern booklets and books.

Of course, I’m selling the store short by focusing so much on yarn. Mosman Needlecraft is a full needlecraft store, with supplies for cross stitch and embroidery in addition to knitting. I know very little about those things- but the displays looked nice!

It can be tricky to find a rockin’ awesome LYS in Australia… so if you’re in Sydney, be sure to stop by Mosman Needlecraft! It’s the best source of yarn I’ve found in the city!

What are the different kinds of sewing needles?

February 15, 2012
What are the different kinds of sewing needles?

Want to learn the basics of hand embroidery with an easy online workshop – totally free?

Sign up for Embroidery 101 here. You’ll learn how to get started, the tools and supplies you’ll need, the four most basic stitches, how to transfer your pattern and how to display your work.

If you already know the basics – sign up for Embroidery 201. It’s also free! You’ll learn how to stitch on specialty fabrics like felt and stretchy T-shirts. Plus you’ll learn lots and lots and LOTS more stitches – all my favorites!

Liz recently asked me. . .

I have a question for you – what sort of sewing needles do you use? I am experimenting with different sorts but haven’t yet found the  perfect one. It looks like you are using six strands in your eyes video – which needle are using for that? And what would you recommend for three strands?

I’m going to use this as an opportunity to talk about sewing needles in general. See that photo up there? I loaded it up in a large file size so you can click on it to see it closer – and that’s a sewing bobbin in there for size reference. The three needles there are the ones I use most often (which is why they’re the hand sewing needles I sell in my shop).

Types of Hand Sewing Needles

Let’s start from the top. . .

The top needle is a size 5 embroidery needle. That’s the size I most often use for regular embroidery because I like to stitch with 4 strands of thread and it’s perfect for that. It doesn’t hurt to use fewer, and if I concentrate really hard (and remove my glasses) I can get six strands through that eye.

I often use a size 8 embroidery needle when I’m sewing or embroidering on felt. The needle hole can actually be visible in felt, and I’m usually only stitching with 2 strands of thread – so it’s better to switch to a smaller needle for that.

I also use a size 8 embroidery needle for Big Stitch quilting.

The middle needle is a size 4 sharp. That’s a basic sewing needle. (Basic sewing needles are called sharps – just to confuse you. All the needles in the photo are sharp, but the middle one is actually called a sharp.) If you click on the photo to see it larger I hope you can see that the eye is much smaller than the embroidery needle. In a pinch you could maybe fit 3 strands of embroidery thread through there, but it would be tough. That said, I have used a sharp to embroider with 1-2 strands of thread and lightning didn’t strike me for using the wrong needle. 🙂

The bottom needle is a size 8 between or quilting needle. I have no idea why quilting needles are called betweens. I think it’s just one more thing to scare away the people who opted out of Home Ec. Anyway – this is a good small size for traditional hand quilting, but I often recommend for beginners to start with something larger and work their way down. That’s why the quilting needles I sell in my shop come in a pack of assorted sizes.

This needle is also sharp, with a small eye like a sharp, but it’s shorter and thinner. I’ve been known to sew with a between, but I never quilt with a sharp.

And now one more thing to confuse you – as needle size numbers get bigger, the needles get smaller and vice versa. So a size 5 embroidery needle is smaller than a size 3. It’s like wire gauges.

So there you go – an intro to the basic types of sewing needles I use most often – along with many (many!) asides reminding you that you can use whatever kind of needle you like best. The needle police will not come and lock you up. 🙂

Got any other sewing or embroidery questions? Send them to me here.

Happy stitching!

Best,
Wendi
Applique Wendi (with fabulous hat)

 

How to Machine Applique Inside Points – video

February 14, 2012

How to Appliqué Notches - using the freezer paper method - a video tutorial

Want to learn how to make a quilt with an easy online workshop – totally free?

Sign up for Let’s Make a Quilt here. You’ll learn how to get started, the tools and supplies you’ll need, and how to make a quilt from start to finish using Quilt As You Go and applique with fusible adhesive.

It’s the easiest, most fun way to make an applique quilt. You can do it!

I posted a video recently showing demonstrating the basics of an easy machine applique technique. That basic technique is good for gentle convex curves, but there are a few additional skills you’ll need to handle things like concave curves and points. In this video I tackle inside points – really easy to handle, once you know what to do. 🙂

Like the looks of the hippo block I use to demonstrate the technique? I hope so! She’s part of the Safari Quilt.

For all the videos and tutorials teaching you how to appliqué with freezer paper, gathered up in one handy dandy post – go here.

Happy stitching everyone!

Best,
Wendi
Applique Wendi (with fabulous hat)

What does the number in parentheses mean in a crochet pattern?

February 14, 2012

Have you ever looked at a crochet (or knitting) pattern and wonder what those numbers at the end of the line are?

numbers in parentheses in crochet knitting patterns

Those numbers are the stitch count for that line of the pattern… in other words, how many stitches you should have in that row/round (6 stitches in the above example).

Sometimes a pattern may be more explicit and say “6 sc” (meaning there should be 6 single crochet stitches), but often the type of stitch is left out, leaving just a number.

So, fear not- it’s not some crazy instruction telling you to do more stitches… it’s just meant to help you out!