Some of my quilts have what I call a “broken grid” layout. You’ll also see it called an “alternate grid.”
Both of these terms refer to quilt layouts that aren’t the standard checkerboard-style grid, with all the seams running in straight, uninterrupted lines from edge to edge.
But I get a lot of questions about how, exactly, I quilt these quilts. Do I quilt around each square individually? Do I turn the corner to go around a block that’s interrupting my straight line?
Nope and nope. 🙂
At this point in the process I have my entire quilt sewn together and I want to do everything possible to avoid turning any corners while I’m quilting, because that means turning the entire mass of the quilt, and that is not fun.
So what do I do?
I hop over the block that’s blocking my way.
This video shows what I mean by that.
See?
Just hop right over those pesky blocks. 🙂
Do be sure to backstitch or knot – whatever technique you use to secure your threads – any time you have to stop or start quilting.
Get ready to have fun in the sun with this great stuffed beach ball! This beach ball measures about 4 inches tall when completed with worsted weight yarn – the perfect size for lots of different amigurumi softies. 🙂
To complete this pattern, you will need. . .
7 colors of worsted weight yarn (assign each a number, C1, C2, C3, etc.)
size H (5 mm) crochet hook – or size needed to get a good tight fabric with your chosen yarn
polyester stuffing
The skills you’ll need for just about any amigurumi are. . .
You can go through all those posts now, or just hop to them as you get to those points in the pattern – whatever works best for you!
Yarn
This pattern can be used with any weight yarn! Just use the hook recommended on the ball band, and adjust as needed (see ‘gauge notes’ below). For a bigger, human-sized beach ball, try a bulky weight yarn! Just keep in mind that you’ll use more yardage than recommended. The sample is crocheted in worsted weight yarn, and all yardage/hook recommendations are calculated based on the sample.
Materials
Size H crochet hook (or size needed to get a tight fabric)
7 colors of worsted weight yarn (fewer if you’d like to repeat colors)
a couple of handfuls of stuffing
Gauge Notes
This pattern doesn’t specify a gauge. It’s a stuffed ball, and you don’t need to be too picky about exact sizing. 🙂 The most important thing is that you use a hook size that creates a nice looking fabric for your yarn. If you use the recommended hook size, and your fabric looks very loose (so that stuffing would show through), then you will want to use a smaller hook. Other than that, no measuring required!
In case you’re curious about getting the exact gauge Stacey does, it’s 5 rounds=2 inches.
Stitch into the Back
All stitches in this pattern are worked through the back loop only. Look at this picture.
See how one loop is highlighted in black? This is the back loop, and it’s what you’ll stitch into. Stitching into the back loop creates ridges on the right side of the piece.
Want to see crocheting through the back loop in action? Check out this blog post. It talks all about why Stacey crochets through the back loop and even has a handy dandy video showing how to find that loop. 🙂
Round 5 With C2 [sc twice in next st, sc in next 3 sts.] 6 times, each time using a different color C2-C7 (30)
Round 6 With C2 [sc twice in next st, sc in next 4 sts.] 6 times, each time using a different color C2-C7 (36)
Round 7 With C2 [sc twice in next st, sc in next 5 sts.] 6 times, each time using a different color C2-C7 (42)
Round 8 With C2 [sc twice in next st, sc in next 6 sts.] 6 times, each time using a different color C2-C7 (48)
Round 9 With C2 [sc twice in next st, sc in next 7 sts.] 6 times, each time using a different color C2-C7 (54)
Round 10 With C2 [sc twice in next st, sc in next 8 sts.] 6 times, each time using a different color C2-C7 (60)
Round 11-20 With C2, sc in next 10 sts. With C3, sc in next 10 sts. With C4, sc in next 10 sts. With C5, sc in next 10 sts. With C6, sc in next 10 sts. With C7, sc in next 10 sts. (60, 10 rounds)
Snap a photo and share it with us over in the Shiny Happy People group! If you share it on social media, tag with with #shinyhappyworld so I can see it. 🙂
It’s a bee… but he doesn’t sting! Make a cute little bumbler with this free crochet bee pattern!
This is Burnie. (His full name is Vanburn von Bumble Bee.) He’s 3” tall and 4.5” long when made with worsted weight yarn. He’s super quick and easy to stitch up!
The skills you’ll need for just about any amigurumi are. . .
You can go through all those posts now, or just hop to them as you get to those points in the pattern – whatever works best for you!
Yarn
This pattern can be used with any weight yarn! Just use the hook recommended on the ball band, and adjust as needed (see ‘gauge notes’ below). For a bigger, super-cuddly animal, try a bulky weight yarn! Just keep in mind that you’ll use more yardage than recommended. The sample is crocheted in worsted weight yarn, and all yardage/hook recommendations are calculated based on the sample.
Materials for this crochet bee pattern
Size H crochet hook (or size needed to get a tight fabric)
two 9 mm black animal eyes
tapestry needle
a bit of stuffing
three colors yarn – black, yellow and white
Find links to sources for all my favorite supplies here.
Gauge Notes
This pattern doesn’t specify a gauge. It’s a stuffed animal, and you don’t need to be too picky about exact sizing. The most important thing is that you use a hook size that creates a nice looking fabric for your yarn. If you use the recommended hook size, and your fabric looks very loose (so that stuffing would show through), then you will want to use a smaller hook. Other than that, no measuring required!
In case you’re curious about getting the exact gauge Stacey does, it’s 5 rounds=2 inches. Note that you will need to have this gauge for the yardage suggestions to provide an accurate estimation.
Stitch into the Back
All stitches in this pattern (that are worked in the round) are worked through the back loop only, unless otherwise directed. Look at this picture.
See how one loop is highlighted in black? This is the back loop, and it’s what you’ll stitch into. Stitching into the back loop creates ridges on the right side of the piece.
Want to see crocheting through the back loop in action? Check out this blog post. It talks all about why Stacey crochets through the back loop and even has a handy dandy video showing how to find that loop. 🙂
Here’s a side view so you can see that cute stinger!
I’m so glad he doesn’t sting. 🙂
Congratulations! Please post a photo over in the Shiny Happy People group! We’d love to see the adorable bumblebees you make with this free crochet bee pattern!
You can use front post double crochet on hats and scarves – but it can also be a handy skill for amigurumi too! You could use it to create textured seashells, fins on a fish’s fins or tail, veins in a leaf, the look of corduroy pants, a ribbed-looking hat – the possibilities are endless!
I used this stitch to add raised ridges on the hair on this doll.
Here’s a view of the hair before I attached it to the doll – shown from the top down so you can see the ridges. It adds a nice extra texture that I really like.
(I also really like that you don’t have to permanently attach the hair to the doll – make the same “wig” in a few different colors and lengths so kids can swap it out as they play. Fun!)
Did you know you can crochet one row below where you would normally crochet?
It’s a nifty little trick that can create a neat new texture on the surface of your fabric – but it can have an extra benefit for amigurumi.
It can make your shape bend!
In this terrific video, Stacey shows you how to do it.
Specifically, she shows how to single crochet in the front loop, one row below – but you can use the general idea to do lots of other stitches one row below.
Here’s how.
See how that makes the fabric bend? Isn’t that cool?
And crochet one row below is one of the skills you build on to be able to front post double crochet – the skill I used to create the ridged lines in this doll’s hair.
Crochet one row below. Pretty nifty – eh?
Here are handy links to all the posts about crocheting more advanced shapes. . .
You may be wondering why you need to learn double crochet. After all, amigurumi are mostly single crochet. That gives the tightest fabric with the smallest holes for the stuffing to peek through.
But sometimes we need some slightly taller stitches (like on the convex side of a bendy piece) so we use half double crochet.
And sometimes we need something even taller, so we use double crochet.
In this video I show you a swatch where you can see (and compare height) between the three most basic crochet stitches – single, half-double, and double.
And, of course, I show you how to do it. 🙂
See how easy that is?
And how much taller it is than single crochet?
That height means bigger holes, so you’ll never see this in amigurumi bodies that need to be stuffed.
See? Even though amigurumi are mostly single crochet, there are lots of ways to slip in a little bit of double crochet for special touches.
Bonus – double crochet works great for scarves and hats. It’s a little more drapey than single crochet – and extra drapey if you go up a hook size from what the yarn label recommends. It gives scarves and slouchy hats just the right softness.
Here are handy links to all the posts teaching the basic crochet stitches. . .
It’s easy to do, a little taller than single crochet.
It’s great for hats and afghans – but we don’t use it very often for amigurumi. Ami are mostly single crochet.
So why am I posting it here?
Well, next month’s Ami Club pattern uses a tiny bit of double crochet, so I wanted to make sure to have a double crochet tutorial video ready on the blog.
And it’s kind of silly to teach double crochet without teaching half double crochet first, so here’s a half double crochet video!
Just a heads up for our friends across the pond – this stitch is called half treble crochet in British patterns. I don’t know why. 🙂
Here are handy links to all the posts teaching the basic crochet stitches. . .
I’m using an example of one block from the Shiny Happy Houses quilt pattern, but you could adapt this idea in all kind of ways! I list a few possibilities at the end of the tutorial.
Step 1
Trace or print all your pattern pieces as usual. You’re going to do three things with your door piece.
Print or trace your door onto the fusible adhesive – just like normal.
Also trace your door onto a piece of freezer paper.
Also trace your door onto the fusible adhesive house piece – right where you want it to go.
Step 2
We’ll start with making the door itself.
Cut the door piece out of the freezer paper a little bit bigger all the way around. Do this neatly – it’s just to make the door a smidge bigger than the door opening. Mine is a little bit more than an extra 1/8″ all the way around.
Layer two pieces of door fabric right sides together and fuse the freezer paper door piece to the wrong side of the top layer.
Use the edge of the freezer paper as a guide and stitch almost all the way around the door, leaving a little bit open for turning on the side where the “hinges” would be. Don’t forget to backstitch at the beginning and end of your stitching.
Step 3
Trim around the door, leaving a small seam allowance.
Clip away the excess completely at the corners.
Step 4
Turn the door right side out through the opening. Smooth your curves, poke out your corners, and tuck the seam allowance at the opening inside and press the whole thing nice and flat.
I’ve got my turning stick going into the opening here so you can see where it is. 🙂
Now set the door aside for a bit.
Step 5
Fuse the house piece and the “behind the door” piece to the back of their fabrics.
Cut out the house piece right on the line – including cutting away the door that you traced.
Cut the “behind the door” piece right on the line at the bottom of the door. Leave a little extra fabric at the top and sides.
Here they are from the front after cutting them out. It’s fun to fussy cut something cute for the “behind the door” piece. 🙂
Step 6
Peel off the paper backings, layer all the pieces together, and fuse.
The “behind the door” piece should be tucked behind the door opening so that it peeks out.
Step 7
Outline all the pieces as usual.
You’ll only need to stitch around the door opening on the house piece – that stitching also secures the unicorn piece behind it.
Step 8
Sew the door in place by stitching down the side with the turning opening.
No hand sewing needed!
Finished!
Add a button doorknob if you like. 🙂
You can play with this idea in so many ways! Add shutters to the windows! Make a camouflaged “door” in a treetop (using the same fabric as the rest of the treetop) and hide a little bird or squirrel in there! I know someone out there has used the Shiny Happy Houses pattern to make a castle. Add a functioning drawbridge!
The possibilities are endless, and I can’t wait to see what you all make!
Here are links to all the posts showing how to applique with fusible adhesive – my favorite method. It’s fast and easy and (with the right materials) it holds up beautifully to rough use and repeated washing.
My husband and I went to the Beyond the Sock Puppetry Workshop where we spent a week learning how to make – and perform – hand and rod puppets.
So! Much! Fun!
Here we are with our instructors (and our finished puppets).
From left to right that’s Peter Linz, Noel MacNeal (both puppeteers for Sesame Street and lots of other shows/movies) and Pasha Romanowski (puppet-builder and pattern-designer extraordinaire).
What an incredible week! We spent every morning working on our puppets, and every afternoon learning how to perform them.
I’ll start with the making – the part that was definitely my happy place. 🙂
Everyone worked from the same pattern – which was a great way to learn. This year it was a cute cat. 🙂
Previous years have been rats, monkeys, chickens, penguins, and pirates.
Even though we all worked from the same pattern, we all used different materials and ended up with wildly different puppets. And we didn’t get to choose our materials – we got mystery boxes like on Master Chef.
I got this really thick, lush, grey fur.
And the fur my husband got may look familiar to some of you!
We built a foam structure, staring with the mouthplate and basically building out from there.
After the foam structure was finished, we sewed all the fur and everything into a skin and slipped it over the foam – a very tight fit!
Then it was time to add eyes and accessories and all that and I forgot to take pictures because I was totally engrossed. 😉
But take a look at some of the finished puppets!
Here are mine and Alan’s.
I love his bowler hat and mustache!
Mine has a little gemstone stud in her nose and she was supposed to get purple feather streaks in her hair, but I ran out of time. I’ll add them later. 🙂
Here are some others. . .
Aren’t they awesome?
Now – the performing.
This was the part that was WAAAY out of my comfort zone – but I still loved it!
We were learning how to puppeteer on TV – not live – and that’s a very different thing. You have to make sure your puppet is standing up straight (a constant problem for me) and moving/looking in the right direction. For those of you who have watched my “welcome to the new month” videos where I show the new Ami Club pattern – you know I’m very directionally challenged when it comes to recording! 🙂
In that shot above, we’re trying to make all our puppets look in the same direction – which is surprisingly hard!
And in this one, you can see what we look like performing, and on the monitor.
We were trying to get our group of three centered on the screen, filling the screen, not showing our rods, and all looking at the camera. 🙂
And then they had us acting and lip synching and doing improv on top of all the puppeteering! So many things to remember!
We did a bunch of performances on the last night, including a big song and dance number that had over twenty of us packed into that space below our puppets. Crazy!
Really – it was a totally incredible week and we want to go back next year.
If any of you are interested in making puppets, Pasha has a terrific website with video tutorials and sells really well-designed patterns. It’s called Project Puppet and I can’t wait to make my next one!
