How to crochet standing legs for your amigurumi (video)

How to Crochet Standing Legs in an Amigurumi - video tutorial from Shiny Happy World

One of the first steps you’ll take as you move beyond the easiest of the easy patterns is to learn how to crochet standing legs. That one skill opens up all kinds of new pattern possibilities – and it’s one of my favorite body shapes.

You can see it in Byron the Bear.

Byron Bear - a cute teddy bear wearing a crocheted sweater

Roy the Rainbow Monster.

Roy the Rainbow Monster - a fun crochet amigurumi pattern from FreshStitches and Shiny Happy World

Duke the Dog

Duke the Dog - an adorable crochet amigurumi pattern from Shiny Happy World

And many more!

When you crochet standing legs, you start by making each leg separately, then joining them together and continuing on up the body.

Joining the legs together, when you’re reading it from a pattern, can be difficult to picture.

So… help is on the way!

Let’s watch it in action, shall we?

Video: How to crochet the joining round for standing legs

In this video, I’ve recorded every step of that sometimes-tricky joining round. Have a look!

To watch this video in full-screen mode, click ‘play’, then click the rectangle in the lower right-hand corner.

I know. It’s a bit weird – but totally easy once you see it, right?

This method can leave a pesky hole between the legs. It’s super easy to stitch up using a scrap of yarn, but if you want to pull out that tapestry needle as little as possible, here’s a nifty variation on this method that will let you crochet standing legs with no hole. The downside is that you’ll need to tweak your stitch count a bit (adding in a couple of increases not in the pattern) but it’s a very minor adjustment.

I hope this video will give you the confidence to crochet standing legs and start making this fabulous amigurumi shape!

For a slightly more advanced shape (two shapes joined together with a bit more space between them) take a look at this tutorial – How to Crochet Two Rounds Together that Are Separated by a Foundation Chain.

Here are all the handy links to posts about crocheting standing legs. . .

Return to the main table of contents for Let’s Learn to Crochet Amigurumi.

Move on to the lessons showing how to change colors.

Happy stitching!

4 easy tips for crocheting a giant amigurumi!

4 Tips for Crocheting Giant Amigurumi - from Shiny Happy World

It’s easy to crochet a giant amigurumi by using a thicker yarn and a larger hook! The result is a super-large animal, with the same amount of crochet work!

Want to give it a try? Here are some tips.

Use multiple strands if a thicker yarn isn’t available

Super-bulky yarns can be pricey and have a limited selection of colors. So, if you can’t get the super-bulky yarn you’re looking for, try holding multiple strands of yarn together!

Crocheting a giant slug

Check out my blog post on how to work with two yarns at once for some tips on handling the yarn.

Don’t be afraid to experiment with hook sizes

The same rules apply with giant amigurumi as small ones: you want a nice fabric without holes showing through.

using a big crochet hook

It may feel funny using a giant hook, so just make sure you’re getting an even tension, and find the size that works! I like to start with a hook one size smaller than what the yarn band recommends, and then go up or down from there if needed.

Take breaks

Crocheting with very thick yarn can be hard on your wrists. Take more breaks than you usually do and give these wrist exercises a try.

Know that you may have to fudge attaching instructions a bit

You’ll be able to follow the crochet directions exactly, and get a giant amigurumi stuffed animal!

But. . . if your pattern specifies exact rounds (or suggestions) for attaching, you might need to take a little creative license.

For example, in crocheting my giant slug, the pattern recommends attaching the eyes to two rounds. Works great for a tiny slug… but it would have made this giant slug’s eyeballs look squashed. So I took some liberties, and attached them how they would look best (to 3 rounds, if you’re curious!)

Don’t be afraid… feel liberated!

Want more info?

Planet June has a great post with LOTS of nerdy detail about scaling crochet patterns – from itty bitty all the way up to giant amigurumi. Read it here.

You should always have fun crocheting… but especially for a jumbo project like this! Go stash-busting and throw together crazy colors. Make a giant animal! Have a blast!

Here are handy links to all the posts about crocheting stuffed animals in different sizes. . .

Return to the main table of contents for Let’s Learn to Crochet Amigurumi.

Move on to the lessons for crocheting more advanced shapes.

Happy stitching!

How to crochet a ruffle on a completed amigurumi

Today, I’m going to show you how to crochet a ruffle onto a (nearly) finished amigurumi.

For those of you who are participating in the slug-a-long, you’ll find that this is exactly how you attach the slug’s foot!

(Get the slug pattern here.)

Step 1: Attach a new length of yarn

For attaching a ruffle to an almost-finished piece, you’re going to start with an amigurumi that has been crocheted through the back loop only.

To form the new ruffle, we need to attach a new piece of yarn to begin crocheting with.

attaching a new piece of yarn to a crocheted piece

To begin, make a slip knot on your hook with the new length of yarn.

how to crochet a ruffle on a piece

Next, single crochet into a stitch on your amigurumi. Specifically, insert your hook through the front loop of a stitch (the ridge that is visible on the piece), wrap the yarn around the hook and pull through one loop, wrap again and pull through both loops.

Ta da!

This post has more info about starting a new yarn color this way.

Step 2: Crochet the foundation round

Now that you’ve attached the first stitch, you’ll crochet around, forming the base of your ruffle.

adding a ruffle to an amigurumi

Which stitches you select is up to you. To form an evenly-shaped ruffle, you may want to use locking stitch markers to plan the shape before crocheting.

Once you have finished the foundation round, look at your piece. Does the round look even when your amigurumi is sitting?

Attaching a ruffle

If so, you’re ready to keep going! If not, this is a good time to unravel and repeat this step, as the ruffle is built on the stitches you form in this round.

Step 3: Ruffle!

Once your foundation is set, start ruffling! To make a ruffle, you’ll increase around the first round you make (typically increasing in every stitch). For more ‘ruffle’, increase more stitches and for a less pronounced ruffle, increase with less frequency.

foot4

Fasten off, either when the instructions tell you to or when you’re ruffle is how you like it! Weave in ends.

And you’re done!

Don’t you feel like everything needs a ruffle, now?

Want a little tip? This is a great way to add extras to your amigurumi. You use the same technique to add a dress or skirt! Just crochet that foundation row right under the arms (for a dress) or around the waist (for a skirt). Easy peasy!

Here are handy links to all the posts about crocheting more advanced shapes. . .

Return to the main table of contents for Let’s Learn to Crochet Amigurumi.

Move on to the posts about troubleshooting common problems.

Happy stitching!

How to Crochet Skinny Parts Like Legs and Antennae

How to crochet skinny parts like legs and antennae - showing a crocheted purple slug with antennae as an example

Do you need to crochet skinny parts for things like antennae and legs? If there’s one part of an amigurumi pattern that can make people feel cranky, that’s it. They’re tiny and sometimes they wind up inside out! Eep!

Today, I’ll show you how to make sure you’re crocheting right-side out and how to count the rounds without a stitch marker.

Crocheting skinny parts right-side out

When you’re crocheting a large piece, it actually doesn’t matter which side is out. If it’s wrong-side out, you just turn it around once you’re done. No biggie. (Read am I crocheting inside-out for more details)

However, the antennae of the slug (and legs of the ladybug and mosquito and fly) are so small, it’s important to crochet with the right-side out.

Let’s say your piece looks like this after round 2:

crocheting a small piece in the round

You can tell it’s inside-out because the pretty ridges (from the front loops) aren’t showing up on the outside. All you need to do is turn it right-side out!

Turning antennae right-side out

Ta da!

crocheting a small piece in the round

Now, keep your piece like this, and continue crocheting. It’ll be right-side out when you’re done!

slug antennae 4

Did you forget and now you have a long, inside-out tube? No worries! Thread the tail from starting your crochet onto a tapestry needle, poke it into your tube from the bottom and pull it out the top, then pull on the tail to turn your tube right side out. Easy peasy.

How to count rounds without a stitch marker

For parts as skinny as an antennae or a leg, you can crochet without a stitch marker! (shocking, I know!)

Here’s a little video to help you out: (to see full-screen, click play, then click the box in the lower right-hand corner)


Happy crocheting!

Hopefully, these two tips will have you crocheting skinny parts with ease!

Here are handy links to all the crochet troubleshooting posts. . .

Return to the main table of contents for Let’s Learn to Crochet Amigurumi.

Happy stitching!

How to count stitches in your first round of amigurumi

Crochet a long Slug amigurumi freshstitches

We’re right in the middle of the slug-a-long, so you can guess what I’m crocheting… a slug!

Actually, I’m making two. I’m making a yellow one, like the slug pictured in the pattern and I’m also making a giant slug:

Crocheting a giant slug

Yarn: Vickie Howell Sheep(ish) in Magenta, 4 strands held together
Hook: size N
So much fun!

How to count the stitches in the first round

For those of you who are crocheting-a-long (or slugging-a-long?) with me, I’ve made a video to show you how to count the stitches in your first round.

In my opinion, counting the stitches in the first round is the trickiest, because there’s a weird little extra bit hanging around from your initial chain two. If you accidentally crochet into that weird bit, you’re count for the second round will be off, too!

So, have a peek at the video!

To view the video in full-screen, click play, then click on the rectangle in the bottom right-hand corner!

Of course, this tip will help you out with any amigurumi you’re crocheting… hope you’ll find it useful!

Are you working on a fun slug?

I can’t tell you how excited I am about my giant slug… it’s going to be so big!

That’s what I’ve been up to this week… how about you? I hope you have an awesome Wednesday, and get some great knitting/crocheting done this week!

If you want to check out more Work-In-Progress posts, please check out Tami’s Ami’s Blog, who’s been organizing a great WIP Wednesday blog theme! And, don’t forget to come back for FO (Finished Object) Friday!

How to add hair to your amigurumi

I’ll be frank. I was scared of adding hair to my amigurumi designs. It seemed complicated.

But not adding hair was limiting me… I mean, what’s a horse without a flowing mane? So, I decided to break out of my shell… and do you know what? Adding hair isn’t that hard.

Let me show you how.

How to attach hair to amigurumi, unicorn

The model in this post is my friendly unicorn. You can get the pattern here.

Step 1: Make your amigurumi

This process is done after all of the crocheting & stuffing & assembly has been completed.

Step 2: Cut your yarn into pieces

The pattern will specify the length of your hair pieces. If you’re making it up as you go along, just remember that each ‘hair’ will be folded in half. So, if you want your piece to have 3″ long hair, you’ll need to cut 6″ long pieces of yarn.

The easiest way to cut multiple pieces of yarn (and you’ll need a lot!) is to find a book/box that has a circumference the length of your pieces. Wrap your yarn around oodles of times, and then cut through them all at once. Presto!

Step 3: Add your first piece of hair

Fold your yarn in half, so that there’s a U-shaped bend on one side and two ‘tails’ on the other side.

Now, look at your amigurumi. If you crocheted through the back loop, there’s lots of ‘front loops’ left behind, which are perfect for attaching hair to. They’ll also guide you to keep your hair in nice rows.

Insert your hook into a front loop, and catch the bend in your hair piece:

tutorial how to attach hair to amigurumi

Pull the bend through the front loop, until about an inch is pulled through:

step2

If you accidentally pull the hair all the way through… don’t worry. Just start again!

Now, your aim is to pull the two ‘tails’ of the hair through the bend.

step3

I’m doing this by using my hook, but you might find it just as easy to use your fingers.

Pull the tails and… ta da!

step4

Step 4: Repeat until your cutie has lots of hair!

back_unicorn_blog

I’m not going to fib… it’s a little slow-going (especially to obtain a lush head of hair!), but it’s the perfect easy-thing to do while watching TV!

Lots of options!

For the unicorn, I made a rainbow-mane… but this technique looks just as adorable in a solid color:

horse_blog

Once the hair’s in place, you can feel free to style it, add a bow, or even trim the hair into a certain ‘do. I can picture this technique being used on amigurumi dolls, long-haired dogs, horses… you name it!

Ready to try your hand at adding hair? Get the Flavia the Unicorn pattern here.

Here are handy links to all the posts about faces and details. . .

Return to the main table of contents for Let’s Learn to Crochet Amigurumi.

Move on to the lessons about eyes.

Happy stitching!

5 ways to modify an amigurumi pattern

It’s really fun to modify an amigurumi pattern!

You can make the same pattern a hundred times and have a hundred different critters that all look different from each other.

Of course, you can follow the pattern exactly. There’s no shame in doing this! Use the recommended yarn, recommended hook size and follow the instructions to the letter. That way you’ll get exactly what you see on the pattern cover.

But try these fun ideas to modify an amigurumi pattern. . .

1. Change the color.

Pick any color you like! And remember – it doesn’t have to be realistic. It’s especially fun to pick seasonal colors to make a holiday version of a pattern you already have.

Take a look at this fun Valentine’s Day owl made with the Nelson the Owl pattern.

modify an amigurumi pattern by changing the color - pink and red owl for Valentine's Day - crocheted with the Nelson the Owl amigurumi pattern

Or how about this adorable red, white and blue version of Roosevelt the Monster?

modify an amigurumi pattern by changing the color - cute red, white and blue monster crocheted with the Roosevelt the Monster pattern

The easiest way to modify an amigurumi pattern is to change the color.

2. Make a giant amigurumi

To make a super-big amigurumi, pick a thick yarn and use a larger size hook. Then, follow the pattern!

I adore this giant slug that Stacey made!

modify an amigurumi pattern by changing the size - giant slug crocheted with the Hannah the Slug pattern

If you can’t find a thick yarn, hold two strands of yarn together. It’ll be double the thickness of the original!

Don’t know what size hook to use? Don’t fret. Check the yarn label for hook recommendations, or (if you don’t have a label) guess and try a swatch. As long as your fabric doesn’t have holes, it’s a fine hook!

Stacey has more tips for crocheting a giant amigurumi here.

3. Make a teeny-tiny amigurumi

Instead of going big… go small!

modify an amigurumi pattern by changing the size - small green crab ornament made with the Tipper the Tiny Crab pattern

Alyssa made Tipper the Tiny Crab extra tiny by using super thing yarn.

I like using a fingering weight yarn (i.e. sock yarn) and a size C hook… but I’ve seen others go even smaller! Try crochet thread and a steel crochet hook for a super-tiny guy!

Update: If you want more info about modifying an amigurumi pattern by changing the size, Planet June has a great post here. She actually created a conversion table showing what kind of increase or decrease to expect with which yarn sizes!

4. Add stripes or a gradient

It’s easy to add stripes to your amigurumi… just change yarn colors every few rounds. This is a fabulous way to use up all those little odds-and-ends of yarn!

Modify an amigurumi pattern by adding stripes - solid and striped bunnies crocheted with the Ringo Rabbit pattern

I used several different colors to make a striped Easter bunny version of the Ringo Rabbit pattern.

This post shows how to get a clean color change, and this one shows a way to change colors that minimizes the jog you get with that change.

Even easier… use a self-striping or gradient yarn, like the one I used for this Cooper Cat.

striped brown cat made with the Cooper Cat crochet pattern

5. Add some glitz

Maybe your amigurumi just wants a little pizazz!

modify an amigurumi pattern by adding beads - beaded orange crab made with the Tipper the Tiny Crab pattern

You can add some beads (there’s a tutorial here showing how to crochet with beads), or pick a yarn that already has beads or sequins added in. Fun!

Whatever method you choose to modify an amigurumi pattern – change is good! It’s like getting a whole new pattern!

Happy stitching!

Join the slug-a-long!

Crochet a long Slug amigurumi freshstitches

I know you’ve been gearing up for the next crochet-a-long! This one’s a… slug-a-long!

That’s right! This month, we’re crocheting Hannah the Slug. She’s a great pattern for those of you who have conquered your first amigurumi, and are looking for a fun project where you’ll learn something new, but isn’t too difficult.

Isn’t she cute?

amigurumi crochet slug

And of course… Hannah looks great in any color. And, since she only uses 35 yards of yarn, this is a great project for using up a little bit of leftover yarn from your stash!

Ready to join in? Grab the pattern and get started crocheting with us!

 

Join the CAL!

Joining in the CAL is easy! Get yourself a copy of the the pattern, grab your materials and read all the slug-a-long posts here to get all of the helpful crochet/amigurumi tips that will guide you along the way!

If you’d like, you can even stick this adorable badge on your blog (right click and save, then link the photo to this post!) to let folks know you’re joining in:

slug-a-long badge

Are you in?

It’s going to be a blast… and I really hope you join us! Go ahead and leave me a comment… and tell me about your slug-a-long plans!

Free downloadable tags for your amigurumi!

My free holiday gift tags were such a hit that I’ve made some more!

For your downloading and printing pleasure, I introduce to you… the amigurumi tag collection!
ree download gift tags for amigurumi crochet

Making some amigurumi? You’ll want to download these adorable tags!

I designed these tags specifically for your cutie stuffed animals… and even included a few tips for display!

Once you download and print the tags, you’ll want to fill out the tag with all the crucial info. Check out my example:

example tag for your amigurumi

The tag easily folds in half… and is ready to adorn your cutie!

Enjoy!

Pledge to Ten (minutes, that is…)

We all know that most New Year’s Resolutions fail. Do you know why? They’re too grand… too lofty. And they often seem impossible.

So here’s what we’re going to do: we’re going to set a practical crochet goal, and dedicate 10 minutes a day to reaching it. You have ten minutes a day, right?

And I’m going to give you a handy worksheet to use. Sounds do-able, huh?

Set realistic expectations, and remove roadblocks

If you’ve never knit before, then you’re probably not going to knit your first sweater this month. (Sorry if I’m the one who had to burst your bubble on that one).

But, there’s good news… the needle arts (knitting, crocheting, sewing) are all about putting in practice. I can pretty much guarantee you that if you practice in a consistent way (even if it’s not for huge blocks of time), you’ll get better.

help for reaching your crochet goals mantra

So, step one: pick a realistic goal that you think you can accomplish in a month.

Okay, onto step two (and I think this bit is really important!). You’re going to remove any possible roadblocks that you can think of that might come in between you and your goal. How many times have you sat down, ready to work on a project… only to discover that you don’t have the right hook?

The best way to guarantee success is to solve all of your roadblocks in advance. Before you begin working on your goal, gather all your materials and tools. This means downloading your pattern, getting your supplies, and even bookmarking resources that you might need. Then, when you need help… you won’t be slowed down. You’re prepared.

The Worksheet

easy crochet goals worksheet download

Now… here’s your helpful worksheet. Go ahead and download the pdf version.

Notice that there are 4 weeks, with 6 boxes each. Can you commit to spending 10 minutes a day, 6 days a week, to working towards your goal?

And if you find a little spare time… buy all means, keep going!

What’s important is that you consistently spend a little bit of time working towards your goal.

Let’s have a peek at an example:

goal setting for crochet, help

Look at how I came up with a list of concrete and helpful steps that will remove roadblocks and help me reach my goal. Nothing crazy… just little things that will help make the goal easier.

What’s your goal?

Notice this worksheet isn’t about setting your goals for all of 2013… it’s about picking one thing that you’d like to do within a month. Easy. No pressure.

If you’re feeling daring, you can print out 12 worksheets, one for each month. But, that’s optional! Start with the first month, and see how you go!

Crocheting should be fun, right?

Tell me about what you’re going to start with… I’m excited to hear your goals!