While I was at it, I also added sleepy, peaceful, closed eyes, and happy, scrunched up, smiling eyes. Just put them where the oval eyes are on any of my patterns.
The medium size will work for almost all patterns, but I also included small and large versions of all the options. You can, of course, resize as needed to fit any eyes.
Have fun with these!
Here are links to all the posts showing how to applique with fusible adhesive – my favorite method. It’s fast and easy and (with the right materials) it holds up beautifully to rough use and repeated washing.
For the most part, giant applique is the same as regular applique – trace, rough cut, fuse, clean cut, fuse again.
If you’re new to applique with fusible adhesive, do NOT start with a giant block. There’s a post here with very detailed instructions, and you can follow along with one of my free patterns. Make at least one “normal-sized” block, and then come back and tackle giant blocks. 😁
In this lesson I’m going to show you how to handle the quirks of giant applique.
Tracing Your Enlarged Pattern
There are two things different with this step.
One – you’ll need to “explode” the pattern yourself. That is – separate the pieces and mark where any extra seam allowance for underlap is.
Two – when you enlarge the pattern, you also enlarge the lines of the pattern. Depending on how thick the lines were to start with and how much you enlarged it – the lines can get to be 1/4 inch thick – or even more! Where do you trace and cut?
This video shows you how to tackle both of those issues.
Not hard – just a couple of things you need to think about. 🙂
What If the Pattern Piece Is Bigger than the Biggest Fusible Adhesive You Can Buy?
Post it notes are my secret weapon. 🙂
The Heat & Bond Lite that I prefer is available by the bolt – so the length is unlimited, but the width is just 17 inches. That will work for a lot of patterns – but not all of them. And who knows how big you’ll make future projects? Maybe you’ll make a king-size quilt with one enormous applique in the middle. It’s possible! 🙂
How to Position and Fuse Your Applique When It’s Bigger than Your Ironing Board
There are two possibilities here.
If your image is symmetrical, it’s possible to build it from the neck up – bit by bit. That’s how I did this giant fox block.
If your image isn’t symmetrical, you’ll need to position everything on a flat surface, pin it, move it to your ironing board, and then fuse it section by section. That’s what I do with this bunny block.
So that’s the applique itself. What about the next step?
Using Thicker Thread
In addition to scaling up the applique pieces, I also like to scale up the stitching that outlines them. I do that by using thicker thread.
12 weight is the thickest thread you can use in a standard sewing machine, so that’s what I use. I almost always use Sulky 12 wt. thread in black. On the rare occasion when I outline in a color, I use smaller Sulky Petites spools.
Outlining with thick thread is pretty much the same as outlining with regular thread, with just a couple of exceptions.
One – you need to use a needle with a larger eye. I use 90/14 topstitching needles and they work great.
Two – do NOT use the thicker thread in your bobbin. Use a regular weight thread for the bobbin.
Since your thread weight doesn’t match your bobbin weight, you may need to adjust your tension a bit. Stitch up a quick row of stitching using the same weight batting you’ll be using and different color threads in the top and the bobbin. Adjust the tension as needed until the bobbin thread doesn’t show on the top and the top thread doesn’t show on the bottom. Make a note of the new tension and use that every time you’re topstitching with your heavy threads and you won’t need to test it again. (I recommend writing it right on the spool.)
If you don’t want to mess with using thicker thread, you can always go around all the shapes more than once for a thicker line. I find that three passes with regular thread gives about the same definition as one pass with the thicker thread. I actually like the sketchy look of multiple lines, but I don’t always want to go around all the pieces three times. It really just depends on my mood. 🙂
Intro and Tools and Supplies – a look some samples of projects made with giant applique, plus an overview of any special tools and supplies you’ll need
Enlarging Your Pattern – how to figure out how big you’ll need it to be, and how to print giant template pieces
Tips and Tricks for Giant Applique – what do you do if the pattern piece is bigger than your fusible adhesive, if it won’t fit on your ironing board, and how to scale up your outline stitching
If you’re just enlarging it a little bit, you might be able to get away with following the instructions in this post.
But if you want to make it really big, you’ll need to go to a copy shop with an oversized printer to print your pattern pages. I checked with Kinkos, Staples and Office Max in my area and all of them can print large sheets – so you should be able to find an option near you.
The Kinkos in my town charges $0.75 per square foot for oversized printing – not a bad deal at all. (That’s for black and white printing. Color is a LOT more expensive, so print your patterns in black and white even though the size reference square might be in color.)
Kinkos is my favorite print shop – and the folks there answered all of my questions. Basically – they said you can do either of these options. . .
Have Them Enlarge It for You
You can print your image out (print any page from any pattern at 100% scale) and bring it in to the shop. Ask them to enlarge it for you. They’ll scan the image and print it out to any size you want.
What size should you make it? I design all my applique patterns to fit in a 10 inch block because that makes the math really easy.
If you want to enlarge it to fit in a 14 inch block – ask them to print it at 140%.
If you want to enlarge it to fit in a 25 inch block – ask them to print it at 250%.
If you want to enlarge it to fit in a 36 inch block – ask them to print it at 360%.
Whatever size you want – just add a 0 to the % enlargement. Easy peasy.
They can also do this if you save the PDF to a flash drive. Just tell them what page of the PDF you want printed out and what size.
Enlarge It Yourself Using Any Photo Editing Program
This option allows you to use the self-service printer, if that’s on option at your copy shop. It is at mine.
This option is a little more work for you – and requires a bit of ease with computers – but you don’t need any fancy programs. I’m using GIMP in the video (it’s a free program) but you can use Photoshop (including the bare-bones Photoshop options that you can get for free) or any other photo editing software out there. It’s just resizing – so it’s not an advanced tool or skill.
Here’s a video showing two things – how to import an image from a PDF into your editing program, and how to calculate what size you need the new image to be.
FYI – this video was originally part of a class that included patterns for the projects shown here. Now the lesson is free, but the video still includes references to the patterns included for those projects.
Just to clarify a couple of points. . .
Opening vs. Importing
If you’re using a JPG file, you can just open it in your editing program. You don’t need to go through the extra steps of importing it.
PDFs are designed to be consistent across multiple platforms and operating systems, so you can’t just open them and start playing around. You need to import the specific page you want to work with. The import process converts the image to an editable format. After you import it, you can treat it just like a JPG file that you simply opened.
All of my patterns are downloadable PDF files, so you can use any block from any quilt pattern for any project!
Image Size vs. Block Size
The block size is the finished size of the quilt block that an image is appliqued to.
The image size is the size of the image to be appliqued onto that block. The image size will always be smaller than the block size, so that there’s room between the image and the edges of the block.
So, for the example in the video, the image size is the actual size of the cat drawing. The block size is the quilt block that image will fit into. My finished block sizes are always 10 inches. The images are usually 8-9 inches at their widest or tallest point, so they can fit in a 10 inch block with a little breathing room all around.
That Formula
I don’t want you to have to scroll through the entire video if you’re just reminding yourself of the formula. Here it is.
You can use this formula for reducing an image too. Maybe you want to scale the image down to fit into a 6 inch space on the front of a T-shirt? The same formula will work.
Here are links to all the Think BIG lessons. . .
Intro and Tools and Supplies – a look some samples of projects made with giant applique, plus an overview of any special tools and supplies you’ll need
Enlarging Your Pattern – how to figure out how big you’ll need it to be, and how to print giant template pieces
Tips and Tricks for Giant Applique – what do you do if the pattern piece is bigger than your fusible adhesive, if it won’t fit on your ironing board, and how to scale up your outline stitching
Most applique patterns use a lot of smaller blocks – but you can super enlarge your favorite and use it as the center block of a medallion-style quilt. For this bunny quilt, the corner blocks are my usual 10 x 10 inches, and that center block is 30 x 30 inches.
Or maybe you want to make just one giant block! The center of this quilt is 40 x 50 inches and the borders are 5 inches wide. If you want to match your dog as closely as possible, I recommend the Playful Puppies and More Playful Puppies patterns. They’ve got loads of templates that you can mix and match to create almost any dog breed!
I’ve always thought it would be really fun to create a nap quilt for a child using the Paper Dolls pattern and sizing it to be the exact height of your kid! 🥰
There are so many possibilities! Get ready to have fun!
Tools & Supplies
For the most part, the tools and supplies you’ll need for giant applique are the same as what you’d use for any regular applique project – with just a couple of exceptions.
Printer
You won’t be able to print giant patterns on your regular printer – and tiling is impractical because the designs have lots of empty space, which makes assembling the tiles confusing. It works GREAT to save your designs to a flash drive and take them to your local print shop or office supply store. Near me, the Office Max, Staples, and Kinkos all have large printers that are inexpensive to use. There’ll be more info on how to enlarge your patterns in a later lesson, but for now just know that you’ll need access to a large printer.
Fusible Adhesive
Usually I use printable sheets of Heat & Bond Lite because I hate tracing and love the ease of printing out my templates all ready for fusing down. That’s not an option for giant applique, but luckily you can buy Heat & Bond Lite off the bolt at most fabric stores, including Joann Fabrics. It’s just 17″ wide, but you can buy pieces as long as you need. (We’ll cover what to do if your design is wider than 17″ in a later lesson.)
Thread
I like to outline my giant applique with thicker-than-usual thread, so that the outline is scaled up like the design itself. For that I use Sulky 12 wt. thread. It’s the thickest thread that can go through a regular machine. I use black for all my outlining, and a single spool has a lot of thread on it, so it lasts a LONG time. If you want a range of colors in the same weight, you can look for Sulky Petites, which are smaller spools.
To handle the thicker thread, you’ll also need a bigger needle. 90/14 topstitching needles are perfect for the Sulky 12 wt. thread.
Intro and Tools and Supplies – a look some samples of projects made with giant applique, plus an overview of any special tools and supplies you’ll need
Enlarging Your Pattern – how to figure out how big you’ll need it to be, and how to print giant template pieces
Tips and Tricks for Giant Applique – what do you do if the pattern piece is bigger than your fusible adhesive, if it won’t fit on your ironing board, and how to scale up your outline stitching
I’ve been getting requests for an ABC quilt pattern for years – but I coulnd’t do it until I had at least one pattern for every letter of the alphabet.
I finally have that!
You can pull your blocks from any of my patterns that use square blocks. (That’s almost all of them.) Pull what you can from Shiny Happy World patterns you already have, and then you can fill in the gaps here.
Remember, individual block patterns are always Buy 4 Get the 5th Free – no discount code needed.
Now you just need a materials list and cutting instructions for the complete quilt – plus ABC templates sized to fit that 4-inch border.
Unlike the rest of my layout guides, this one only has information for one size. That’s because it’s constrained by the number of letters in the alphabet. My sample quilt is 70 inches wide x 80 inches tall. That’s just a little shorter than a standard twin size.
Of course, this isn’t the only way you can lay out an ABC quilt!
Want to make a smaller quilt? Without the borders, this is the same size as my basic Napping Quilt – my favorite size for the couch. Use the Simple Grid Layout Guide instead of this one. Applique the names on the back of the quilt, or maybe embroider them into the background of each animal’s block. There’s a free ABC hand embroidery pattern here.
Maybe you like the size but don’t want to bother with double borders? Combine them into a single 10-inch wide border and scatter the animal names all higgledy-piggledy on it.
Want to make a standard twin-size quilt? Increase the width of the top and bottom outer borders from 6 inches to 11 inches.
I’m working on similar guides for other layouts too! That way no matter what layout your pattern shows, you can easily use the blocks in a different design. Here’s what I have so far and what’s coming. . .
I’m working on similar guides for other layouts too! That way no matter what layout your pattern shows, you can easily use the blocks in a different design. Here’s what I have so far and what’s coming. . .
I almost never include sashing and borders in my quilt patterns. It’s just not my favorite. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
But maybe it IS your favorite! That doesn’t mean you can’t use my patterns. It’s easy to add sashing and/or borders to any quilt made from the same size blocks.
It’s easy to add sashing and borders – but the math is. . . annoying.
That’s where my handy-dandy layout guides come in.
Each guide contains a materials list and cutting instructions for six different quilt sizes – from Itty Bitty Baby to King Size.
Download the Grid with Sashing and Borders Layout Guide here.
I’m working on similar guides for other layouts too! That way no matter what layout your pattern shows, you can easily use the blocks in a different design. Here’s what I have so far and what’s coming. . .
None of my multi-block patterns includes a materials list and cutting instructions for this layout – but that doesn’t mean you can’t do it. You just need additional instructions!
That’s where my handy-dandy layout guides come in.
Each guide contains a materials list and cutting instructions for six different quilt sizes – from Itty Bitty Baby to King Size.
I’m working on similar guides for other layouts too! That way no matter what layout your pattern shows, you can easily use the blocks in a different design. Here’s what I have so far and what’s coming. . .
A simple grid is one of my favorite quilt layouts. It’s a classic for a reason! And it’s what you see on most of my multi-block quilt pattern covers.
Here are just a few examples. (Click on the image to go to that pattern.)
Those multi-block patterns only include materials lists and cutting instructions for three different sizes. And maybe you want to make a full quilt from a single block pattern? Like making this chameleon over and over again in every color of the rainbow!
The individual block patterns only include materials and instructions for one block.
That’s where my layout guides come in!
Each guide contains a materials list and cutting instructions for six different quilt sizes – from Itty Bitty Baby to King Size.
I’m working on similar guides for other layouts too! That way no matter what layout your pattern shows, you can easily use the blocks in a different design. Here’s what I have so far and what’s coming. . .
Use this free dove applique pattern to make all kinds of things!
Download the template pieces and placement guide here.
If you have an electric cutting machine, you can use it to cut your pieces. Download the SVG file here.
The dove combines with all the other free Christmas applique patterns so you can make a quilt, but there are so many other possibilities too! Here are just a few ideas (with links to free patterns) . . .
The dove is designed to make an applique that fits in a 10-inch square block. That makes it really easy to resize as needed. Do you want to make a 4 inch coaster? Print the pieces at 40% size. Do you want to make a tote bag that’s 17 inches square? Print the pieces at 170% size.
You can also easily use this pattern to make half-blocks to break up a standard grid. Just adjust the angle of the wing so it’s not tipped up so high and you’re all set – no resizing needed.
You can find yardage requirements and cutting guides for multiple layout possibilities (including a grid with half-blocks) here.
A Little Extra Help
If you’ve never made a quilt before, I recommend starting here.
If you’ve never done any applique before (or are new to my method) I recommend starting here.
There’s also a single video here that takes you through all the basic steps of my method.
You can find loads of single-topic tutorial videos here, and also by using the search box at the top of the page.
Prep Your Block
Cut an 11” square of fabric for the background, and an 11 inch square of batting.
Press the quilted block again (with steam) and let it cool.
This video has a general intro to my Quilt As You Go method, along with complete instructions for how to assemble the block. It’s a long video, but there’s timestamp info to help you skip to the specific instructions you want.
Cut Your Pieces
Download the template pieces and placement guide here.
If you have an electric cutting machine, you can use it to cut your pieces. Download the SVG file here.
The image in the SVG file is NOT reversed. If your cutting machine has you cut your pieces fabric side up, leave the orientation as it is. If your cutting machine has you cut your pieces fabric side down, you’ll need to flip the image horizontally.
Different cutting machine brands import the image at what seems to be totally random sizes. To fit the appliqué on a block that finishes at 10 inches square, check to make sure the small square in the image is one inch, and resize if necessary before ungrouping the pieces. Delete that square after resizing so your machine doesn’t try to cut it. 🙂
Print your templates.
If you’re cutting everything by hand you’ll need to print the reversed and exploded templates. If you’re using printable fusible adhesive you can print those pages directly onto the paper side of your fusible.
I hate to trace so I use printable Heat & Bond Lite for all my quilts – make sure whatever brand you choose is compatible with whatever type of printer you have.
If you’re using a light box you’ll also need to print the placement guide.
Roughly cut around each shape. Leave a little bit extra all the way around each piece.
Follow the package instructions and fuse each piece to the wrong side of the fabric.
Cut out each piece neatly, directly on the solid lines.
Cutting after you fuse ensures that the adhesive goes right to the very edge of the fabric.
Trace the dotted lines onto the fabric. If you hold the pieces up to a window, the light will make the lines very visible – even on dark fabric.
If you want to skip this step, this video shows how to use a light box. If you use a light box, you only need to transfer the eye.
Put It All Together
Peel off the paper backing and arrange the pieces on your background block. Fuse in place according to the adhesive package instructions.
This video shows the assembly with me explaining how I’m layering the pieces.
This video shows the same thing – but using a light box to guide placement.
Stitch all the edges down. You can use any stitch you like, in matching or contrasting thread. I really love the look of a simple straight stitch with black thread.
