I’ve been sharing little peeks of what to expect from the new Craftsy class on Facebook and Instagram and then gathering them all up every week here on the blog. There are so many fun things in this one class!
You can read the first round up here. Googly eyes, scrappy pieced backgrounds, silly eyelids, a kajillion uses for a triangle – it’s all there. 🙂
This week we started with silly hair.
I mean, seriously. Those curls have elastic inside so they spring back when you pull on them. How silly is that?
And then I showed how one simple body shape can look totally different, depending on the other bits you add.
My favorite is the one with the purple toenails. 🙂
More fun 3D parts with these teeth.
So easy!
And then I went really crazy with the 3D additions with these floppy, satin-lined ears. . .
Enter the giveaway for a free spot here. Even if you don’t win – just by entering you’ll be notified when the class goes live (so soon!) and you’ll get a special discount coupon.
Over on Facebook and Instagram I’ve been sharing little peeks and bits of info about what will be covered in the class. Here’s a quick summary of what I’ve shared so far. . .
The theme is Monsters.
Mix & Match Monsters. 🙂
The pattern included in the class includes pages and pages of monster parts and you can put them together any way you like. Don’t worry if that sounds intimidating – over the course of the class you’ll see dozens of sample blocks for ideas and inspiration. You can copy as many or as few as you like. Here’s a GIF I made showing just a few ways I used a simple triangle shape.
Of course, you’ll learn the basics of Quilt As You Go and applique with fusible adhesive. . .
. . . and we even have a lesson on making pieced QAYG background blocks from scraps.
We talk about choosing fabrics and I show two different no-fuss-no-measure techniques for making your blocks. I love this grumpy “Get off my lawn!” monster. 🙂
I use a few different types of fabrics in the class and show you my tips for getting good contrast and monsters that really POP. I especially love the magnificent mottled monsters I got with these batiks.
Aren’t they gorgeous? I also really love saying magnificent mottled monsters. 🙂
We do a lot of different variations on eyes in the class. I think my favorite are these googly eyes.
Technically they’re faux trapunto eyes with needle sculpted pupils, but that makes them sound really hard and they’re actually super easy. You’ll see if you take the class. 🙂
I also like playing with eyelids. Look at just a few of the possibilities!
Grumpy eyes, sleepy eyes, surprised eyes – I love them all.
Update – Please be aware that Craftsy (now Bluprint) has added a subscription plan to their offerings, which changes the way instructor support happens. If you buy the class for your Forever Library, you get instructor support – which means I’ll answer any questions you post. If you watch the class as part of the streaming subscription, any questions you post go to the larger class community – not to me.
Now that Quilt Market is over I can finally share details about some of those BIG embroidery projects I was working on back in April. 🙂
This post is all about how I made this cat surrounded by lots and lots of embroidered flowers. It’s in an 18-inch hoop!
I started out by enlarging my favorite cat (Maurice) from my Cats Quilt pattern and appliquéing it on a big square of fabric. I enlarged him just a bit (printed the pattern page as big as I could and still get it to fit on a single page) and used my normal fusible adhesive method.
I stitched down all the edges, but I did NOT stitch the whiskers yet. They’re just drawn in for now with a fine-tip Sharpie.
Then it was time to add the flowers. It doesn’t matter that the full piece is bigger than a single sheet of paper because the Continuous Stitching pattern is a seamless repeating pattern. See how you can overlap the edges for a continuous pattern? That means you can make BIG embroidery. As big as you want!
It took me several sheets of Sulky Stick & Stitch (the new – and much better – name for Sulky Sticky Fabri-solvy) to cover the whole hooped area.
I just stuck the sheets right over the cat. So many flowers!
I don’t normally have problems with the Sulky Stick & Stitch pulling loose, but I don’t usually stitch this large, so I started stitching in all the overlapping areas first, just to keep things secure.
Here are some details of the different kids of flowers. . .
One of the things I love about working with Sulky Stick & Stitch is that I can change my mind about things partway through stitching. All the markings will wash away, so I don’t really have to stick with my original drawing. Take these tulips. . .
Those little purple dashes were supposed to be dots, but when I got to them I changed them to dashes. No big deal.
All the stitching is finally finished! I just skipped right over that applique cat – it was easy to see him through the stabilizer.
Here it is having its soak.
Yep – that’s the messy back. Here are some more shots of the back of the piece.
I do NOT believe that that back of your work should be as pretty as the front. 🙂 I’m a thread-carrier and it would drive me batty to tie off my thread after each individual flower!
But – recognizing that I’m a thread carrier means I do something a little different with pieces like this. See how dark green that fabric is? That’s not the same lime green you see on the front of the piece! That’s because I backed the piece with a second layer of darker fabric behind the main fabric. It keeps my thread carries from showing through to the front! Tricky. 🙂
I soaked the piece for about an hour in cold water, sprayed off the bits of mushy stabilizer, gave it another quick swish in clean water, then ironed it dry. One more step before finishing. . .
Remember how I didn’t stitch those whiskers when I appliquéd the cat? Time to do it now. I waited because I wanted the black whisker lines to go over the embroidered flowers. This part was totally nerve-wracking, but it did just fine. 🙂
I hooped the finished piece in a quilting hoop using this method. No way was I letting glue anywhere near a piece that took this long to stitch!
Finished!
That is one BIG embroidery piece!
I’m super happy with this piece! Sulky had it hanging in their booth for Quilt Market and they’ll be exhibiting it at a few more shows, but Jo has already claimed it for her room when it comes home. 🙂
Here are the other BIG embroidery pieces I stitched for the same project.
I love instant delivery. I love being able to print directly onto specialty papers like Sulky Sticky Fabri-solvy, freezer paper, and fusible adhesive. And I love being able to click through to additional resources and tutorials.
But they’re new territory for a lot of people!
I get a lot of questions about digital patterns and have heard some heartbreaking stories that could have been avoided if people had known just a few good practices when working with this kind of file.
So here are some simple suggestions for you.
When you download your digital pattern file, make sure to save it where you know you can find it.
Most computers have a factory-created folder called downloads and all downloaded files are automatically saved there. You can change your computer settings to save downloads to your desktop or another folder, or you can just open the downloads folder after you download your pattern, and then move it to where you want it to live permanently. I suggest a folder called Shiny Happy World Patterns. 🙂
Save a backup!
I can’t count the number of heartbreaking emails I’ve gotten from people whose computers crashed and they’re trying to replace all their digital patterns because they didn’t have a backup. 🙁
If you have a free Google account, you have a HUGE amount of free storage space on Google Drive. You can also save a backup to an external hard drive, another cloud service, or even a flash drive. I know a couple of people who store a backup of all their digital patterns on a flash drive – which makes it super easy to take to a copy shop for printing if you don’t have a printer.
Saving the email with the download link is NOT a safe way to back up your files.
A lot of shopping cart services have an expiration date on those links – some as short as a week.
Many shopping cart services have a limit to the number of times you can download a pattern – a few limit it to a single download!
Digital delivery services change and companies go out of business. Download links don’t remian functional forever. A pattern actually saved to your computer (and backed up) is yours forever.
Only print the pages you need
As a designer, one of the things I love about digital patterns is that I can include loads of additional information and photos – way more than I could possibly justify if I had to think about the printing costs associated with books and paper patterns. And I can include links to video tutorials going into more detail teaching every single skill used in the project.
The only pages you really need to print out are the pattern pages – the actual templates that you’ll be cutting out or tracing. And many times you don’t even need to print all of those. All of my applique patterns, for example, include a regular version of the image which you can use for needle-turn applique and as a placement guide for other techniques, plus a whole separate set of templates with all the pieces reversed and exploded and ready to print on fusible adhesive or freezer paper. You don’t need both sets! Choose your technique and then print only the pages you need.
Some people print all the instruction pages and keep them in a binder, but a lot of people skip that step too. You can set your computer, phone or tablet next to your sewing machine and work directly from the screen if you like.
Print at 100% size – no scaling
The exact look and wording of the printing dialog will vary depending on your computer and your printer, but it will look something like this.
I drew a big pink arrow pointing to the stuff you need to look for – language about size or scaling. Unless the instructions state otherwise, you want to print at 100%.
Sometimes a PDF won’t print. It’s usually a problem with needing an update – either your browser, your version of Adobe Reader or your printer driver. It’s hard for me to help with that because the problem is usually specific to the software on your computer. I can tell you that there are no “protections” of any kind on my PDF patterns – if you can download the pattern you should be able to print it. One workaround that can help is to print it as an image. There are instructions here for how to do that, as well as some more troubleshooting tips for weird printer problems.
Updating your browser can fix a whole host of weird problems. It’s the “Have you tried changing your sewing machine needle?” fix of the tech world. Any time I run into tech difficulties on ANY site, my first stop is always to visit www.whatismybrowser.com. It will tell you if there’s an update available for your browser. Running that update has helped solve really weird problems more times than I can count.
Those tips address the most common questions and problems people run into with digital patterns. If you have any more tips or suggestions for people – please include them in the comments!
Having trouble downloading a pattern? Want to know how you can work with digital patterns if you don’t have a printer? You’ll find answers to lots of tech questions on the FAQ page.
Here’s a list of links all about choosing a quilt pattern – and even designing your own!
When I made the first cat quilt for my daughter Jo, she asked for cuddle fleece on the back. Until then I had only used it for stuffed animals, but she thought it would make an exceptionally cuddly quilt.
She was right.
After sleeping under it the first night she came to me and very seriously said, “Mommy. You should never use anything else on the back of your quilts.”
She was right again. 🙂
Wonderfully – I’ve found that it’s no harder to work with than a woven fabric on the back!
Note – I’ve heard from a few people with Brother machines that they do NOT like pulling the cuddle fleece through. We think it might be that the Brother feed dogs are less “grabby” than other manufacturers? Just be aware – if you have a Brother machine you may need to give it some extra help to get it to move through the machine.
A lot of people have asked me whether they have to do anything special to use cuddle fleece on the back of their quilts.
Do they need to use a special needle?
Do they needle to use a particular thread?
Do they have to use a walking foot?
Can I show actually doing some of the quilting?
Can I show what it looks like from the back?
I can show you all of that!
I’ve made a bunch of these now and I’ve found that I don’t really need to treat it any different from using a woven fabric background. In fact – I think it’s even less likely to get tiny folds or puckers in it. 🙂
A note about the fluff. . .
By the time I get to the backing/quilting/binding step of a project I’m always super excited to finish – and I don’t take the time to tumble the backing in the dryer to get rid of the fluff on those cut edges. 😛 If you’re more patient than me. . .
Cut the backing to size
Toss it in the dryer on air dry for 15-20 minutes. That will pull almost all of the fuzz off the edges and catch it in the lint trap.
Proceed as normal – baste, quilt and bind wearing whatever you want and not worrying about getting too messy. 🙂
Cuddle fleece makes an extra cuddly quilt with (in my opinion) the perfect weight. And it washes and wears beautifully!
Here are all my posts about layering and basting your quilt, and the final round of quilting.
Here are all my posts about hand quilting and Big Stitch quilting. I don’t use these techniques with fusible applique or Quilt As You Go, but I LOVE using Big Stitch Quilting with my cheater fabric.
I think a lot of the questions come from people who just can’t believe how easy it is. Like, there’s this nagging feeling that they must be missing an important, fussy step. For example – trimming the excess batting out of all the seam allowances. I can’t imagine anything more tedious or less fun and I’ve had several people ask if they have to do that. *shudders at the thought*
It really is dead simple and super easy. Have fun with it!
I usually follow these steps to make any of my Quilt As You Go applique quilts. . .
cut quilt blocks (and batting) 11 inches square
quilt the blocks
applique the blocks
outline stitch the applique
trim quilt blocks 10 1/2 inches square
sew the quilt blocks together
press seams open
baste to backing
quilt
bind
I’ve had several requests for more information about step 5 – specifically a video showing how to square and trim quilt blocks. It’s actually really easy – if you have the right tools.
Here’s how. . .
I don’t have very many rotary cutting rulers – but this is one that I really can’t imagine doing without. I highly recommend it if you do any quilting at all.
This is the exact ruler that I use to trim quilt blocks – the one you see in the video. It’s not inexpensive, but Joann’s always seems to have a good coupon and that can make a big difference. 🙂
For bigger quilt blocks (like the ones in this free Polaroid Quilt Block Tutorial) I use an even bigger ruler – one that’s a whopping 20 1/2 inches square! It’s a little unwieldy, so I only use it for the bigger blocks.
The Quilt As You Go lessons, videos and patterns are the most popular pages here at Shiny Happy World. That makes sense! It’s a super easy and fun way of quilting, and I don’t know of anyone else who does it quite the way I do.
Over time I’ve added a bunch of tutorials to answer questions, demonstrate specific steps, and make things as easy as possible. It’s time for one page to corral all those Quilt As You Go instructions!
If you want to work through these lessons in a systematic way, you can find them all here.
Every single lesson is free, and you can use any pattern to practice all your new skills!
I’m currently rewriting all of my patterns to these cutting instructions. . .
Cut the blocks and batting 11 inches square (or even a smidge bigger – it doesn’t have to be exact). This will give you a little wiggle room and I like wiggle room.
For half blocks (like adding words to your quilt) cut the initial blocks 11 x 6 inches. After quilting and applique, trim to 10 1/2 x 5 1/2 inches. Finished blocks will be 10 x 5 inches – exactly half the size of a full block. (Quilt Block Sizes for Alternate Grid Layouts has lots more info about half blocks and double blocks.)
Quilting Patterns
I get a lot of questions about how I quilt my blocks. Here are some specific answers. . .
I don’t baste the batting to the block. I find that the cotton fabric clings just fine to the cotton batting and I don’t have problems with shifting.
I don’t mark any of my quilting patterns – I just jump in and start doodling on the machine and it’s lots of fun.
I don’t use a special needle or thread – just a universal 80/12 needle and regular all-purpose thread.
I do set my stitch length a little longer – a 3 on my machine. I like the look of the bigger stitches and it makes the quilting go faster. 🙂
I do use a walking foot. All the quilting patterns I currently use work fine with the feed dogs and walking foot engaged – through I think this method would also work very well for people learning free motion quilting. That will be me someday. 🙂
You can watch how I do it and see a gallery of quilting pattern ideas in the following videos. . .
Piecing or Applique?
You can use QAYG for piecing or applique – but I especially love it for applique. I quilt all my blocks first, and then I applique over the quilting.
A lot of people ask – don’t the quilting lines show through your applique when you do the quilting first?
I’ve done a lot of experimenting with that and I’ve gotten to a place where that almost never ever happens. Here’s what to do. . .
Use 100% cotton fabric. The worst show through I’ve had is when I’ve accidentally used a piece of mystery fabric that turned out to have synthetic content. 🙁
Iron your quilted block nice and smooth and let it cool without moving before adding your applique. It’s an extra step, but it only takes a few seconds and it makes a big difference.
If you’re really worried about it, you can do the quilting after you applique. I give tips on that for lots of different patterns in these videos.
I usually outline all my pieces with all-purpose black thread and a simple straight stitch. I love the slightly cartoony look and I think it works well with the style of my applique designs.
Of course, you can use any decorative stitching you choose if that’s the look you want! I’m more likely to stick with the straight stitch and use a thicker thread if I want a heavier line. Read more about playing with different thread weights here.
I press my seams open to eliminate bulk. You do NOT need to trim the batting out of the seam allowance. That would very quickly turn this into a not-fun technique. 😛
Baste your finished quilt top to your back using whatever method you like. I have had nightmare experiences with spray basting, so I stick to pins. You can see how I baste a quilt here.
Quilt the top to the backing just along the major seam lines. Sometimes I stitch in the ditch using a straight stitch, sometimes I stitch 1/4″ to each side of my major seams. Sometimes I use a zigzag or decorative stitch to quilt those seams. All of those options work equally well.
I’m putting the finishing touches on the new house block patterns going out this weekend and I thought I’d share a look at all my house blocks so far. Remember – I’m working on three different house quilts in three different styles and color palettes. Most people in the club are only making one. 🙂
Up top is my whimsical neighborhood – with houses in colors that most people don’t use in real life. I love them! There’s an extra house in this group because it’s what I used to make the video demo showing how to put everything together. 🙂
This is my more conventional neighborhood. The houses are still wonky and fun, but the colors are more like what you’d see driving down the streets of an actual neighborhood.
And this is my gingerbread quilt. 🙂 All the houses are gingerbread color with candy trim and lots of extras – like beading, extra stitching, buttons, and rickrack “snow” on the roof.
I’m having so much fun with these blocks! And it’s been absolutely fantastic to see the houses that members are making! Pop into the Shiny Happy People group on Facebook to see! Here’s just one fabulous example – this one from Terri.
Want to join the club? It’s never too late! If you sign up now you get instant access to all the pattern pieces and all the emails that have gone out so far. The next mailing goes out this Sunday 4/3.
Updated – The club has finished, so if you order the pattern now you get it all in one big download.
In these Quilt As You Go videos I showed the lines I was stitching on paper. I did this so you could get a bird’s-eye overview of the whole block, and also so you could see how to quilt around the applique, in case you choose to do things in that order. (I like to do my quilting first, then applique over it – but you can do it either way.)
But I’ve had several people ask for a video showing exactly how I sew these patterns at the machine. They want to know. . .
What kind of needle are you using?
How are you basting the block? Pins? Spray baste?
Are you using special thread?
What stitch length are you using?
What are you using to mark the lines?
So here’s a video with all those answers! This one shows how I do Quilt As You Go with wavy lines – all the wavy stripes and grids that I love so much.
In the video I promised to show a gallery of quilt as you go designs – a menu of sorts that you can refer to when you’re looking for ideas. Here that is. If you click on any image you can see it a little bigger.
I almost always quilt my blocks before I applique. Some of these blocks are shown after the applique is added, but I did the quilting first. You can do it in any order you like, but if you quilt after you applique you have to go around the shapes.
Ready? Jump in and have fun! Quilt as you go makes your quilting super fun and easy.
