This is my favorite pincushion style. For the best results you want to stuff it REALLY hard – but that makes that nice dimpled button in the center a bit tricky. And how do you knot it off? I don’t want to see the knot anywhere.
That’s what I show you how to do in this video. Get the free pincushion pattern here.
Happy sewing!
Ever since I did this video showing how to make bias tape I’ve been getting questions about how to miter corners neatly when you use it. How do you get that neat corner? Do you wrap the whole thing and pin it and then start to sew? Do you sew one side at a time? How do you pivot at the corner?
So many questions!
Here’s a video showing how to miter corners with any double-fold tape.
I used this technique just recently when I made this roomy tote bag. (It’s a free pattern! Get it here.)
I used custom bias tape and mitered the corners to bind the edges of the big pocket on the side.
I also used this technique to bind the edges of the beach blanket in this collection of beach/pool accessories for Dress Up Bunch dolls.
Here’s a close up of the towel, showing how I mitered the corners neatly.
You can even use this technique to bind the edges of your quilt entirely my machine!
(Full disclosure – I don’t. I use a half-machine/half-hand binding method that makes an absolutely perfect and durable double-layer quilt binding. This video shows how I bind my quilts.)
Happy stitching!
I’ve always wanted to make a sewing machine cover, but somehow never got around to it.
Until now.
As soon as I saw the Ed Emberley fabric collection from Cloud 9 I knew I wanted to use it to make a few things for my sewing room. . .
Michelle at Cloud 9 was kind enough to send me some early cuts of the fabric and I’ve been sewing away with it. (If you’re also following along on Facebook you’ve seen photos of some of the work in progress.)
Now I’m starting to finish layout on some of the patterns – so be prepared for a slew of patterns to help you make stuff for your sewing room. All stitched up in Ed Emberley awesomeness.
First up – a reversible sewing machine cover. Why reversible? Well – I wanted to make it in the giraffes fabric, but I also wanted to show you how you could use the basic pattern and really have fun with the front panel. You can piece it, applique it, embroider it, bedazzle it – play with it any way you like. (My daughter just got a Bedazzler. I have rhinestones on the brain.)
Making it reversible also gives the cover some heft without having to use interfacing. Nice! Plus it allows me to change my mind about which color I want to see. Here’s the reverse.
See? A totally different look. 🙂
Anyway – most sewing machine cover patterns are essentially boxes, but I show you how to make this slightly fitted. See how the top is a bit narrower than the bottom? It’s an easy extra step that makes the whole thing look nicer. Totally worth doing and still easy enough to be a beginner pattern.
Ready to make your own?
Materials you’ll need
Step 1
Measure your machine.
A __________ total height
B __________ depth of the top
C __________ height of the front D __________ depth of the bottom
E __________ total width (Not labeled – but be sure to include the wheel that controls the presser foot)
Step 2
Calculate the size of your pattern pieces.
Front and Back Pieces = E + 1 inch (seam allowance and ease) x A + 1 inch (seam allowance and ease)
Top Piece = E + 1 inch x B + 1 inch
Sides = A + 1 inch x D + 1 inch (you’ll cut the angle out of the front later)
Now you have some decisions to make. . .
You can cut your fabric to the dimensions in step 2 and skip ahead to step 8.
You can get fancy with any of these pieces. I’m going to go on and give you instructions for piecing the front panel, but you can really do anything you like. Piece it. Applique on it. Embroider it. Bedazzle it. Just make sure that when you’re done, the finished dimensions of your creation are what you calculated in step 2.
Whatever you choose, you’ll need a front, a back, a top and two sides for each version of your cover. Remember – this is a reversible cover so you’re really making two. Make them coordinate or make them wildly different. It’s totally up to you.
If you want to piece your cover like my elephants and frogs, move on to step 3. If you’re using solid fabric or doing your own thing, skip ahead to step 8.
Step 3
I’m going to have to give you some general directions here, because the measurements of individual pieces will vary from machine to machine.
If you look at the finished pattern cover you’ll see a froggy rectangle surrounded by a thin frame of green scribbles, surrounded by elephants. Cut your inner rectangle (the froggy piece) 10 inches wide and 4 inches tall.
Cut 2 strips of frame fabric 10 inches long and 1 1/2 inches wide.
Cut 2 more strips of frame fabric 6 inches long and 1 1/2 inches wide. Don’t cut the final (elephant) pieces yet.
Step 4
Sew the long framing strips to the top and bottom of the center rectangle. Use 1/4 inch seam allowance.
Press your seam allowance toward the darker color.
Step 5
Sew the short framing strips to the sides.
If your seam allowances in step 4 were exactly 1/4 inch, the strips should fit perfectly. If not, trim off the extra bits to even things up.
Press seam allowances to the darker color.
Step 6
Now you’re going to need to do a little math to make this fit your machine. Add strips to the top and bottom of your inner rectangle to make it equal the total height of your machine + 1 inch for seam allowance and ease.
Notice that I didn’t add the same amount to the top and the bottom. I wanted the inset panel to sit a little lower than the center of the front.
Step 7
Now add strips to the sides to make the total width equal to the width of your machine + 1 inch for seam allowance and ease.
Again – I didn’t add the same width to each side. I wanted the inner panel to sit toward the lower right corner. Play with this and have fun.
You might want to add extra-wide strips in steps 6 and 7 and then cut it down to size, playing with the placement of the panel.
Step 8
One more piece to prep and then you’re ready to put it all together.
Put the side pieces face to face. From the top left corner measure over the depth of the top of your machine (B) + 1 inch.
From the lower right corner, measure up the height of the front of your machine (C) + 1 inch.
Connect those two points and cut the resulting triangle out of the top right corner of your side pieces.
Step 9
Using 1/4 inch seam allowance, sew the front and back pieces to the top piece. If your fabric only works in one direction (like these elephants) make sure you’re sewing the top of the panel to the top piece, so that the elephants are right side up on the finished cover.
Press seam allowances toward the darker color.
Step 10
Lay the side panel face down on the back panel, so that the long edge of the side panel is lined up with the short edge of the back panel.
Step 11
Using 1/4 inch seam allowance, sew the side panel to the back panel. Stop sewing 1/4 inch from the end of the side panel (this will be at the seam between the back and top panels). Backstitch and remove from the machine.
(I changed fabrics here because the colors worked better for showing the stitching line.)
Step 12
Flip your fabrics around so that the short edge of the side panels is lined up with the short (raw) edge of the top panel.
Start sewing where the previous stitching left off. Stop sewing 1/4 inch from the edge, just as you did in step 11.
Basically, you’re avoiding stitching in the seam allowances. This will let you get nice crisp points when you turn the whole thing right side out.
Step 13
Repeat steps 11 and 12 at the corners as you stitch across the top, along the angled front piece, and down the short bit at the bottom.
Your side panel will end up a little longer than your front panel (the amount of extra fabric depends on the angle that you cut into the side panel in step 8). Just use a pair of scissors to trim off the excess on the side panel and even things up.
Step 14
Repeat steps 10 – 13 for the other side panel.
Boom! You’re done with the outside of your cover.
Now repeat steps 9 – 14 to make another cover.
Everything should be finished on both covers except the bottom edge.
Step 15
Turn the inside cover right side out. Turn the outside cover inside out. Put the inside cover inside the outside cover so that their right sides are facing each other. Make sure the front panels are facing each other.
Line up the raw edges of the two covers, matching the seams all the way around. Pin.
Using 1/4 inch seam allowance, sew the two covers together at the bottom edge, almost all the way around. Leave about 4 inches open so you can turn everything right side out.
Step 16
Turn the whole thing right side out and flip things around so that the inner cover is the liner of the outer cover. Work at the bottom seam allowance and press it nice and flat.
Either hand sew the opening closed or topstitch all the way around the bottom edge to close it and stabilize the edge.
Step 17
Put it on your machine. Admire it. Reverse the cover and admire it some more. You’re awesome!
Here are handy links to all the posts about quilting tools and supplies.
Sewing Machine
Iron
Rotary Cutting Tools
Scissors
Other General Sewing Room Supplies
One More Hugely Popular Post that Seems to Fit Here Better than Anywhere Else
Return to the Let’s Make a Quilt main Table of Contents.
Move on to the posts about choosing your quilt pattern.
Happy sewing!
These triangle totes are handy-dandy little things. Use them to hold make-up, coins, little toys, a handful of crayons and a small notebook – anything you can think of.
Materials you’ll need for all three pyramid bags:
Skills you’ll need (links take you to video tutorials):
Ready? Let’s sew!
Step 1
Gather your materials. For the large bag you’ll need two fabric rectangles, each 8″ tall and 15″ wide, one piece for the handle cut 3″ wide and 9″ long, and one 7″ zipper.
The medium bag pieces are cut 6″ x 11″ with the handle piece cut 3″ x 7″ and a 5″ zipper.
The small bag pieces are cut 4″ x 7″ with a 3″ zipper. The small bag has no handle.
Step 2
We’ll start by prepping the handle. Fold your handle piece in half the long way and press a crease down the center. Open it back up and fold each edge in to the center crease. Press. Refold down the center crease and press.
Step 3
Now stitch down the length of the handle, about 1/8 in from each edge. Press with steam to make all those stitches settle in and look nice. Set the handle aside for now.
Step 4
Now we’re going to start with the bag itself. That means sewing in a zipper. Don’t worry! It’s easier than you think. Watch this video first if you’re nervous.
First, switch out your regular presser foot for a zipper foot. Now lay your outside fabric face up on your workspace. Lay the zipper face down over one short edge.
Step 5
Lay the lining fabric face down over the zipper. Line up all the edges and sew them together as close to the teeth of the zipper as your zipper foot will let you get. When you open up the layers, the zipper will be sandwiched between the right sides of the two fabrics, with the zipper pull facing the outside fabric.
Step 6
Now you need to attach the other ends of the fabric to the other flap of zipper tape. It will look weird when you get them all together – like a figure 8 with a zipper at the center. Don’t worry – it’s supposed to look like this.
Step 7
See? When you turn it right side out you’ll have a tube with the main fabric on the outside, the lining fabric on the inside, and the zipper in between them.
Step 8
Now that you’ve admired your nice zipper installation, turn the tube inside out, so the lining fabric is on the outside. Flatten the tube so that the zipper is running down one side. Mark the fold opposite the bottom of the zipper with a pin. Basically, you’re just finding the center here.
Step 9
Reflatten the tube so that the bottom of the zipper is lined up with the pin. See? Now the zipper is exactly centered and you didn’t have to measure anything. Geometry is awesome!
Step 10
Using 1/4 inch seam allowance, stitch across the bottom of the bag. Stitch right over the zipper (if you’re using a plastic zipper) but do it slowly. Trim the raw edge with pinking shears.
I sewed this seam twice. I don’t know about other kids, but my daughter likes to stuff as much as she can into any bag and I don’t want the seam to split.
Step 11
Now we’re going to sew the top seam and attach the handle. First – unzip the zipper. You will be very unhappy if you forget this step so do it now! Reflatten the top of the bag so that the zipper is running up the side. Sandwich the handle between the two layers. Put one end at each edge of the bag for a handle like on the biggest bag (shown here – see the pins?).
Put the ends together as close as possible to the zipper for a handle like on the middle bag.
Make sure the raw edges of the handle are lined up with the raw edges of the bag and pin in place.
Step 12
Using 1/4 inch seam allowance, sew across the top edge of the bag. I double-sew the seam here too – and you might even triple-sew across the handles. Strong is good. 🙂
Trim your seam allowance with pinking shears. Not too close to your seam – just neaten things up a bit.
Step 13
Turn the bag right side out through the unzipped zipper opening. (See why you had to unzip it before sewing?)
Gorgeous! And so useful! Give yourself a pat on the back and make another. You can get all three bags out of a pair of fat quarters.
Here are all three together. The smallest bag has no handle – but I attached a bit of ribbon to the zipper pull.
Make a bunch for yourself, and to share with friends! When you make them, share photos in the Shiny Happy People group. We would love to see!
Happy sewing!
What on earth is that weird-looking thing up there?
That, my friends, is my newest free pattern. I call it a carrying can. It’s a terrific toy (and toy tote) for kids.
It’s a pineapple juice can, completely covered with fabric, with a small, elasticized opening in the top making it easy to reach in and grab toys, but hard for toys to fall out when you’re just carrying it around.
It’s fun to stuff large, squishy toys through the small, stretchy opening, and rocks dropped in the hole make a satisfying clanging sound when they hit the metal can. 🙂 The instructions are for a short carrying handle, but you could easily lengthen it to an over-the-shoulder strap.
(If you’d like to make the snake you see wriggling out of the can you can find the free pattern here.)
This was originally posted on Sew, Mama, Sew where a couple of commenters expressed concern about the sharp edge of the can. I find that most can openers actually leave a pretty clean edge on the can itself. (The lid that you remove is another story.) Check it, of course. But be aware too that the construction of the thing makes it pretty hard to get your hand on the edge of the can once it’s all put together. The fabric wraps around tightly enough that you can’t shift the elastic too far away from the center of the can. If you’re worried about it (or if your can opener does leave a jagged edge) you can substitute any straight-sided cylindrical container with a flat bottom – like an oatmeal container. I give instructions for how to measure for an alternate-sized container. But an oatmeal container won’t be as durable as a tin can – and rocks dropped in won’t make the same cool sound. 🙂
Here’s how to make it. . .
Supplies
Step 1: Cut fabric.
Cut one rectangle 10 1/2 inches tall x 13 3/4 inches long (or height of can + 3 1/2 inches x circumference of can + 1/2 inch, if you’re using a different sized can).
Cut one strip for the handle 4 inches x 14 inches.
Here’s a tutorial showing how to use rotary cutting tools.
Trace the base of the can onto the same fabric and cut two circles.
Step 2: Prepare the handle.
Fold the short ends of the fabric up 1/4 inch at each end. Press.
Fold the strip in half the long way and press a crease down the middle.
Open the strip back up and fold each long edge in to the center crease. Press.
Refold along the center crease and press again. You should have a nice, sturdy handle with no visible raw edges.
Stitch all the way around the edges of the handle, as close to the edge as possible. Press to set the stitches.
Set the handle aside.
Step 3: Prepare the base circle.
Place the two fabric circles right sides together. Stitch all the way around the edge with a 1/4 inch seam allowance.
Cut a small slit (about 2 inches) in the center of ONE of the circles. Be very careful not to cut through both layers.
Turn the circles right side out through the small slit. Smooth the curves with a chopstick and press. You have a neatly finished circle to sew on the base of your can. Set it aside.
Step 4: Prepare the main can cover.
Turn the top edge of the fabric down 1/4 inch and press. (If you’re using fabric with a right and wrong side up, make sure you’re working with the top edge.) Turn it down another 1/2 inch and press. Stitch along the folded edge, creating a channel for the elastic.
Step 5: Add the handle.
Place one end of the handle so that the bottom of the handle is 3 inches below the top (folded) edge of the can cover, and the edge of the handle is 3 inches from the edge of the can cover.
Repeat with the other end of the handle on the other side of the can. Make sure not to twist the handle between the two sides.
Sew the ends of the handles in place. I like to sew a box roughly 1 inch square, with an X across the middle of it. This makes a nice strong handle.
Step 6: Sew up the can cover.
Thread the elastic through the channel at the top of the cover. Be careful not to pull the ends through.
When the ends of the elastic are flush with the raw edges at ends of the channel, fold the cover right sides together and stitch the side seam using 1/4 inch seam allowance. I like to start with the elastic end so I’m sure that’s lined up perfectly, sew through the elastic, backstitch back over the elastic, then sew through the elastic again and then on down the rest of the seam. This makes it extra strong at the stress point where the elastic is.
Press your seam allowance open.
Step 7: Cover the can.
Slide the sleeve over the can. Center the elastic opening over the open end of the can.
Turn the can over and tape the raw edges of the bottom of the sleeve to the base of the can. The tape will be covered– so don’t worry about how ugly it looks here– but make sure the fabric is gathered neatly around the edge of the can.
Center the prepared circle over the tape and hand stitch it in place. I recommend using ladder stitch; you can find a video tutorial for that here.
Done! Hand it off to a small person and see what they stuff inside!
Happy sewing!
First, for each scrubbie cut two 4 inch squares of fabric. I usually use super cheap cotton muslin – the cheapest I can find. Or use some really ugly cotton fabric out of your stash. (How does that stuff get in there?)
Sew the two pieces together around three sides. I use a 1/4 inch seam allowance, but it doesn’t really matter.
Fill each bag with 1/4 cup of old-fashioned oatmeal. Sew it together across the top.
Voila! You have a finished oatmeal bath scrub.
I usually make a bunch of these at one time – I can make about a dozen in 15 minutes. They’re terrific for any itchy skin issues. Toss one in the tub while it fills. Let the water pound down on it for a little while to mash out the oatmeal goodness. Once I get in the bath I also squeeze the bag every once in a while. Just having the stuff in the water is good, but it’s also great to rub the scrubbie directly on any itchy places. It helps sooth poison ivy, sunburn, dry skin, allergic reactions, and more. Last summer my daughter “forgot” that she was allergic to grass and repeatedly rolled down a freshly-mowed hill wearing a tank top and shorts. She was covered with itchy red welts, but one bath with an oatmeal scrubbie took care of it.
These oatmeal bath scrubs make terrific gifts too. Make a bunch for a friend when you’re making some for yourself. 🙂
Enjoy! And have a great week!
Best,
Wendi
Want to learn the basics of hand embroidery with an easy online workshop – totally free?
Sign up for Embroidery 101 here. You’ll learn how to get started, the tools and supplies you’ll need, the four most basic stitches, how to transfer your pattern and how to display your work.
If you already know the basics – sign up for Embroidery 201. It’s also free! You’ll learn how to stitch on specialty fabrics like felt and stretchy T-shirts. Plus you’ll learn lots and lots and LOTS more stitches – all my favorites!
Liz recently asked me. . .
I have a question for you – what sort of sewing needles do you use? I am experimenting with different sorts but haven’t yet found the perfect one. It looks like you are using six strands in your eyes video – which needle are using for that? And what would you recommend for three strands?
I’m going to use this as an opportunity to talk about sewing needles in general. See that photo up there? I loaded it up in a large file size so you can click on it to see it closer – and that’s a sewing bobbin in there for size reference. The three needles there are the ones I use most often (which is why they’re the hand sewing needles I sell in my shop).
Let’s start from the top. . .
The top needle is a size 5 embroidery needle. That’s the size I most often use for regular embroidery because I like to stitch with 4 strands of thread and it’s perfect for that. It doesn’t hurt to use fewer, and if I concentrate really hard (and remove my glasses) I can get six strands through that eye.
I often use a size 8 embroidery needle when I’m sewing or embroidering on felt. The needle hole can actually be visible in felt, and I’m usually only stitching with 2 strands of thread – so it’s better to switch to a smaller needle for that.
I also use a size 8 embroidery needle for Big Stitch quilting.
The middle needle is a size 4 sharp. That’s a basic sewing needle. (Basic sewing needles are called sharps – just to confuse you. All the needles in the photo are sharp, but the middle one is actually called a sharp.) If you click on the photo to see it larger I hope you can see that the eye is much smaller than the embroidery needle. In a pinch you could maybe fit 3 strands of embroidery thread through there, but it would be tough. That said, I have used a sharp to embroider with 1-2 strands of thread and lightning didn’t strike me for using the wrong needle. 🙂
The bottom needle is a size 8 between or quilting needle. I have no idea why quilting needles are called betweens. I think it’s just one more thing to scare away the people who opted out of Home Ec. Anyway – this is a good small size for traditional hand quilting, but I often recommend for beginners to start with something larger and work their way down. That’s why the quilting needles I sell in my shop come in a pack of assorted sizes.
This needle is also sharp, with a small eye like a sharp, but it’s shorter and thinner. I’ve been known to sew with a between, but I never quilt with a sharp.
And now one more thing to confuse you – as needle size numbers get bigger, the needles get smaller and vice versa. So a size 5 embroidery needle is smaller than a size 3. It’s like wire gauges.
So there you go – an intro to the basic types of sewing needles I use most often – along with many (many!) asides reminding you that you can use whatever kind of needle you like best. The needle police will not come and lock you up. 🙂
Got any other sewing or embroidery questions? Send them to me here.
Happy stitching!
Best,
Wendi
Back in this video about cutting strips using a rotary cutter I showed folks how to “true up” the edge of your fabric. That is – make sure that you’re cutting straight strips with the grain of the fabric.
Loretta asked. . .
This makes sense for when you have a piece of fabric that you might get from the store that has selvedge edges. But what if you are using scrap fabric – like you are cutting up an old shirt or pair of pants to make bean bags? Do you need to make sure that your fabric is true?
Ooooh – good question! It’s really a judgement call and depends on what you’re making.
A good guideline is to ask yourself if the finished thing you’re making is going to hang – on the wall, in a window, on your body, etc. If it’s going to hang, you usually want to make sure you’re working on the straight grain. As it hangs, it stretches, and if it’s not cut on the straight grain it will stretch unevenly. Have you ever had a T-shirt that got all twisty over time? Where the side seams stopped running straight up the sides and instead kind of spiraled around your body? That means the grain was messed up. It can happen with pants too. So annoying!
For stuff that won’t hang it’s not as important. So for most softies and beanbags, most patches for scrap quilts, etc. just cut out your pieces to maximize the fabric you have, or to get the pattern to run in the direction you want.
For really precise pieced quilts (like super-fancy stars and things like that) the pattern will often include cutting instructions and a good pattern will let you know if the direction of the grain is important.
Got any other questions? Send them to me here.
Happy stitching!
Best,
Wendi
Today we’re going all out with the fancification you can add to the hem of a simple skirt (or a pillowcase, a hankie, a tea towel – anything with a hem really). Today I bring you my favorite fancy schmancy embellishment – the crocheted scallop edge.
Here’s what it looks like. I happen to think this elevates a simple T-shirt skirt into something really nice. That simple band of color around the bottom, the addition of a different texture – it just works. And it works for grown up clothes too!
Want to see it closer?
You can click on any of the images to see them even bigger.
I don’t care if you’ve never picked up a crochet hook before – you can totally do this! The video is longish – not because it’s extra complicated, but because I take you slowly through every step. AND I’ve also made up a printable PDF with a kajillion step by step photos that you can keep near you on the sofa while you work. You can download that here. I tell you what needle size to use and I even took photos of the label of the yarn I use so you can see all the details. You can do this!
This is the last of this batch of skirt fancification videos. Here’s a rundown of the other posts.
How to Add Ruffles to a T-shirt Skirt (video)
How to Embroider the Hem of a T-shirt Skirt (video)
How to Add a Crocheted Scallop Edge to Anything. That’s this one. 🙂
Are you ready to sew some fabulous skirts? I’m ready to see them! Post photos to the Shiny Happy People group! 🙂
Happy stitching everyone!
Best,
Wendi
I love skirts made out of T-shirt fabric. How can you go wrong with soft, stretchy knit? They’re easy to make, easy to wear, and easy to fancy-up a bit.
First – here’s a tutorial for making a super simple skirt that’s great for kids.
This tutorial will help you if you want to sew it out of stretchy knit fabric.
Over the next few weeks I’ll be sharing a few tutorials for dressing up the hem of this plain skirt. I’m starting with the easiest method this week – using some of the scraps from your T-shirt fabric to add a bit of ruffle to the hem.
I added just one demure little ruffle to the hem of this skirt for me. Jo wanted two rows on her skirt.
This is SO easy – and a great way to use up those last few scraps from turning a T-shirt into a skirt. Here’s the video showing how.
Happy sewing!
Best,
Wendi
