How do I enlarge or reduce a pattern?

large and small rag dolls - how to enlarge and reduce softie patterns

L.A.C.E over at My Glass House had a great question that I wanted to answer here for everyone. She’s making a bunch of Bartholomew Bunnies and she’s thinking of making a really big version of the bunny next. She asked if I had ever made one.

No, I haven’t. But I have enlarged and reduced other patterns and there IS a trick to it.

The first thing you need to do is mark off the seam allowance. When you enlarge the rest of the pattern you do not want to also enlarge the seam allowance. So – on almost all of my pattern the seam allowance is 1/4 inch. Use a ruler or a seam gauge and measure in 1/4 inch all the way around all the pattern pieces. Draw in all those seam allowance lines. Basically, what you’re doing is drawing the stitching lines in. (On many of my patterns those stitching lines are already drawn. It’s the dashed line.)

Now you can enlarge or reduce to your heart’s content. Make a ginormous bunny or a teeny tiny bear. You can either scan your marked-up pieces into your computer and enlarge and reduce in your favorite photo editing software, or you can take it to a copy shop and do it on a photocopy machine. Enlarge or reduce all the pieces by the same percent.

Next you need to add the seam allowance back on to your pattern pieces. Go all the way around the edge of each piece with a ruler or hem gauge making little marks at 1/4 inch, then connect all those little dots. Cut out your pattern pieces and sew!

One thing to be aware of – you may need to tweak the pattern a bit after enlarging or reducing. Proportions that seem just fine in the original model can look weirdly off  – especially after enlarging. And those weird proportions can look even weirder after stuffing. For really simple blobby shapes like my bunny and bear you should be fine. But you might run into problems with something like a rag doll where the skinniness of the neck, or example, might be thrown off when you scale up or down. So if you’re working with a more complicated pattern – especially one with skinny parts and wide parts – you might want to make a sample up in a muslin (or other cheap fabric) first so you can check for problems. Draw on any details instead of stitching them, and be sure to stuff it too! Stuffing changes all the proportions.

You don’t want to do what I did here. I know better, but I did it anyway. I designed a pirate doll. I did all the time-consuming applique and hand stitching on his face and his outfit. It was looking good the whole way – until I stuffed him. Suddenly his head looked really tall and skinny (it looked even worse in person) and he was just. . . weird. Grrr!!! When in doubt, always make a muslin.

Hope that answers your question! Have fun!

How to Make Double Fold Binding

a close-up photo showing the end of double fold binding tape made with black and white striped fabric

Double fold binding tape is so useful!

I use it to make straps, to bind the edges of pockets, pot holders and placemats, to make drawstrings, and more.

One quick note – you’ll also hear me use the term bias tape or double fold bias tape. Technically, I should only call it bias tape when the starting strips are cut on the bias instead of on the straight grain. I rarely use actual bias tape (you only need the bias when your binding tape needs to shape around curves) but all the packaged binding tape you buy ready-made at the store is bias tape – so I tend to slip and use that as a general term when I really shouldn’t. So – know going into this that the technique is exactly the same for both. The only difference is how you cut your initial strips.

Speaking of cutting your strips – I’ve shown you how to cut strips using basic rotary cutting tools in this video. In today’s video I’ll show you how to join those strips together and how to use an inexpensive tool to make your own double fold binding tape.

There are a few different brands of bias tape makers out there – you should be able to find them in any big box fabric store.

Mini Tote – Free Sewing Pattern PDF

Mini Tote Bag pattern - free from Shiny Happy World

Here’s a free tote bag pattern!

This mini tote bag measures 6 inches wide x 7 inches tall x 2 inches deep.

It’s the perfect size for packing your lunch, carrying a few books, or toting some toys.

And it’s easy to make!

You can decorate your bag any way you like. For that adorable bunny bag (perfect for Easter egg hunting) I used one of the blocks from this Woodland Critters quilt pattern, with the size reduced.

If you’re looking for free bunnies, I’ve got those too. Click here for the free Mix & Match Bunny applique pattern with several super cute bunny appliques. For all of these you’ll need to print the pattern pages at 60% to get the right size for the bag.

If you’re using a different pattern or your own design (or maybe a child’s drawing for an extra special bag) just make sure that the image is no more than 5 inches wide and 6 inches tall.

On the sample bag I used for the step-by-step photos below, I embroidered one of my favorite birds from this Bird Sampler pattern onto a solid fabric before sewing it up in Step 3. You’ll see the pretty bird in the final step. 🙂

You could also use a fabulous print that needs no extra fancification.

Choose a fun coordinating color for the lining and you’re ready to sew!

It’s a totally versatile tote bag pattern that you can use in so many different ways. Have fun with it!

What You’ll Need

  • one fat quarter of the main fabric
  • one fat quarter (or less) for the lining fabric
  • any additional materials you want for optional embellishing

Step 1

We’ll start with the handles. Cut two strips of the main fabric, each 5 x 12 inches. Fold one of the fabric strips in half the long way, right sides facing out. Press. Open the strip back up and fold each long edge in toward the center fold. Press.

preparing the handles

There’s a video showing how to make double­fold bias tape here. And if you’re new to rotary cutting, there’s a video here that will get you started.

Step 2

Fold in half again along the center fold so that you have one long strip, four layers of fabric thick. This makes a nice, sturdy strap. Press.

Topstitch along both long edges, about 1/8 inch from the edge.

topstitched handles

Repeat for the second handle.

Step 3

Now for the bag. Cut two 9 inch squares from the main fabric, and two from the lining fabric. If you’re going to embroider your bag (or embellish it in any other way) ­do this now before you sew the pieces together.

Pin the two main fabric squares right sides together. Using 1/4 inch seam allowance, stitch around both sides and the bottom of the bag.

Is this your first sewing machine project? This video will show you how to sew straight lines and turn corners. 🙂

Repeat for the lining pieces.

Step 4

Open out one bottom corner of the bag so that the side seam and center bottom seam line up, and the corner of the bag makes a point. Measure up one inch from the tip of the stitching (NOT the tip of the fabric triangle) and stitch a line perpendicular to the side seam.

boxing the corners

Repeat for the other corner.

Repeat for the lining.

There’s a video showing how to box corners here.

Step 5

Turn the main bag right side out. Leave the lining inside out.

Pin the edge of one strap to the top edge of the bag, 1 1/2 inches in from the side seam.

positioning the handles

Repeat for the other end of the strap.

Repeat with the second strap on the other side of the bag.

Step 6

Put the main bag (right side out) inside the lining (wrong side out), with the straps sandwiched between the two layers.

The bag and lining should be right sides together.

Line up the side seams and pin the layers together around the top edge of the bag.

handles pinned in place

Step 7

Using 1/4 inch seam allowance, stitch almost all the way around the top edge of the bag. Leave the space between the two ends of one handle unstitched, so you can pull the bag through the opening.

The easiest way to do this is to start sewing right at the inside edge of one handle. Sew through that handle, around the side seam, through both handles on the other side, around the second side seam, and through the last handle. Stop as soon as you sew over the last handle.

leave an opening to turn the tote bag right side out

Be sure to backstitch at the beginning and end of your stitching. This is a pretty small opening and there will be some pressure on the edges as you pull the bag through.

Step 8

Reach into the opening and pull the main bag through. Pull through the handles, then pull the lining right side out and tuck it into the bag.

Press around the top edge, being especially careful to press the open edges evenly.

pressed opening

Step 9

Topstitch around the bag, about 1/8 inch from the top edge.

topstitched tote bag

Be sure that the folded edges of the opening you used for turning are lined up and that you catch both layers in the topstitching to hold them together. No hand stitching needed. 🙂

Mini Tote Bag pattern - free from Shiny Happy World

Finished!

Here are several free patterns that work with my basic 10-inch applique squares – no resizing needed!

Here are several free patterns that work with just some simple resizing. This post about making coasters has info about resizing an applique pattern that can be applied to any of these projects.

Return to the main Let’s Make a Quilt Table of Contents.

Happy sewing!

Rotary Cutting – How to Square Up Your Fabric and Cut Strips

How to Use Rotary Cutting Tools - video tutorial

Welcome to the world of rotary cutting!

It’s pretty awesome.

In this video I show you how to square up your fabric and how to use basic rotary cutting tools to cut strips – on the straight grain and on the bias.

You use straight grain strips to attach to straight edges – like the edges of a quilt.

If you need your strips to curve (like around a curved hem, or to enclose the raw edges of armholes) then you use bias-cut strips.

Remember – that rotary cutter is razor sharp. Keep your fingers away from the blade at all times, and always remember to close the blade (or engage the safety) before you set it down. No blood on the fabric – that’s my motto. 🙂

Want to put those new rotary cutting skills into action?

Buttonholes easy quilt pattern
This quilt is super easy to make.

I designed this quilt especially for beginners and it’s really easy to make. As in – I don’t care if you just took your first sewing machine out of the box and haven’t even threaded it yet – you can make this quilt. 🙂 Get the Buttonholes quilt pattern here.

If you want to learn some more advanced rotary cutting skills, here are some posts that show you how to use additional rulers. . .

One more link. If you do much rotary cutting at all, you’ll notice your cutting mat gets pretty fuzzy over time – especially if you cut batting like I do! This post shows you an easy way to clean a fuzzy cutting mat.

Here are handy links to all the posts about quilting tools and supplies.

Sewing Machine

Iron

Rotary Cutting Tools

Scissors

Other General Sewing Room Supplies

One More Hugely Popular Post that Seems to Fit Here Better than Anywhere Else

Return to the Let’s Make a Quilt main Table of Contents.

Move on to the posts about choosing your quilt pattern.

Happy stitching!

Goody Bags – Free Sewing Pattern

Goody Bags - free sewing pattern from Shiny Happy World

A couple of years ago I started building up a stash of reusable fabric gift bags – and working down my stash of gift wrap.

This little bag is one of my favorite sizes – roughly 4 inches wide x 7 inches tall x 2 inches deep.

It’s perfect for small gifts – and it goes together quickly and easily enough to make up a big batch and use them as party favor bags.

This batch is kind of girly looking, but a simple change of fabric will completely change the look. Try making some up in a favorite team’s colors!

Once you get the hang of making them, it’s really easy to adjust the pattern to be any size you want.

Have fun with them!

What you’ll need

  • two 7 x 9 inch rectangles for the bag
  • two 1 1/2 x 12 inch strips for the ties (or use 1/2 inch ribbon)
  • sewing machine, thread, etc.
  • less than an hour

Difficulty

Very easy – this is all straight line sewing. It’s a great first sewing project.

Step 1

We’ll start with the ties. Fold one of the fabric strips in half the long way, right sides together. Using 1/4 inch seam allowance, sew along one short side and down the long open side, leaving the other short end open.

Free Goody Bag pattern from Shiny Happy World

Remember to backstitch at the beginning and end of your stitching.

If you’re a beginning sewer, this video will help you with sewing straight lines and turning corners.

Step 2

Trim away the excess fabric at the corners of the stitched end.

Free Goody Bag pattern from Shiny Happy World

Be careful! Cut close to – but not into – the stitching.

Step 3

Turn the tube of fabric right side out. Press flat.

Free Goody Bag pattern from Shiny Happy World

Repeat for the second tie.

This video shows my favorite way to turn tubes of fabric right side out.

Step 4

Lay one of the bag pieces so that it’s a tall rectangle.

Free Goody Bag pattern from Shiny Happy World

Pin the raw ends of your two ties to the edge of the bag, 3 inches down from the top edge.

Step 5

Layer the second bag piece face down over the first, with the ties sandwiched between them. Pin in place.

Free Goody Bag pattern from Shiny Happy World

Make sure to tuck the ties into the center of the bag so they only are stitched into the seam where you pinned them.

This video has more info about how to embed ties (and other things) in a seam.

Step 6

Using 1/4 inch seam allowance, sew together both sides and the bottom of the bag, catching the ties in the stitching where they’re pinned. Don’t forget the backstitch at the beginning and end of your stitching.

Step 7

Now we’re going to box in the corners of your bag so it has some depth.

Flatten and fold one corner of your bag so that the side seam is lined up with the bottom seam. It should come to a point at the bottom.

Measure up one inch from the tip of the stitching line (not the point of the fabric) and mark a line perpendicular to the stitching line. Stitch on that line from edge to edge, backstitching when you start and stop.

Free Goody Bag pattern from Shiny Happy World

Repeat for the other corner.

Step 8

Turn the bag right side out. Finish the top edge however you like. I like to just trim the edge with pinking shears, but you could hem it if you prefer.

Free Goody Bag pattern from Shiny Happy World

This is a great size for small gifts or party favors, but you can easily make the bag bigger for larger gifts. Have fun with it!

Happy sewing!

 

Rotary Cutting Tools

rotary cutting tools

Nothing cuts strips of fabric better than rotary cutting. It’s so much easier on your hands, wrists and shoulders than using scissors! Plus, you get more accurate cuts.

In this post I’m going to take you through the basic tools, tell you what you’ll use them for and give you some recommendations on purchasing.

All of these tools are readily available at pretty much any fabric store. I also linked to Amazon for each product – those links are affiliate links.

My #1 favorite tool – and one I recommend for everyone, whether you’re going to rotary cut or mark and cut with scissors – is a clear acrylic ruler. Mine is 6″ x 24″ and that’s the size I recommend. It should have an all-over 1-inch grid, with markings down to 1/8 inch. Also look for diagonal lines that say 30, 45, and 60. Those seem mysterious at first, but they are terrific for cutting angled shapes.

I show you how to use this ruler in this post – Rotary Cutting: How to Square Up Your Fabric and Cut Strips.

I also have a 2″ x 18″ ruler, but I hardly ever use it now that I have the big one. Just buy a big one.

The only other tools you really need for rotary cutting are a rotary cutter and a cutting mat.

This my my rotary cutter and I love it. It takes a 45mm blade and it’s very easy to find replacement blades. Some people also have smaller cutters for going around curves, and larger cutters for going through more layers of fabric, but this is all I need. The blade is (and needs to remain) razor sharp – so keep it out of reach of kids until they are ready to use it safely – with instruction and supervision.

I have two different cutting mats. This is the one I use for most of my cutting. It’s big – 24″ x 36″ and I do recommend getting the biggest one you can afford and/or have room for. Most fabric is 44″ wide and it’s very nice to be able to fold it in half just once for cutting – so look for one that’s at least 24″ on one side.

I also have a 12″ x 18″ mat like this one that’s very handy for cutting quilt blocks when I want to spin them around to cut from more than one side. With this small mat I can spin the mat and not disturb the block. I’ve tried cutting mats with a lazy Susan-style base for spinning around, but for me that spins too easily. I’m happiest just using a smaller mat.

There are lots of other specialty rulers out there, with markings designed particularly for a certain kind of quilt block. Only get these if you make a lot of that kind of block. These are the only specialty rulers I have. . .

That’s it – the whole inventory of my rotary cutting tools.

Here’s a round-up of tutorials showing how I use these tools. . .

Here are handy links to all the posts about quilting tools and supplies.

Sewing Machine

Iron

Rotary Cutting Tools

Scissors

Other General Sewing Room Supplies

One More Hugely Popular Post that Seems to Fit Here Better than Anywhere Else

Return to the Let’s Make a Quilt main Table of Contents.

Move on to the posts about choosing your quilt pattern.

Happy sewing!

How to Sew Napped Fabric (Velvet, Corduroy, etc.)

How to Sew Napped Fabric - showing a close-up of magenta fabric with LOTS of pins holding the pieces together

Sewing with napped fabric can be a real pain.

It creeps like crazy!

I’m not kidding! The first time I worked with velvet I sewed a pair of pants for my young daughter. I treated it like normal fabric and by the time I got to the end of my first side seam, I still had INCHES left of one of the layers. It slid that much!

Way back at the beginning of the year I made a video all about choosing fabrics. I warned you to stay away from velvet and other napped fabrics because they can be tricky to sew. Well – no more! If you want to make a velvet bunny for Easter – here’s a video showing what you need to know.

First of all – what is napped fabric?

It’s any fabric that has a direction to it. I don’t mean the print on the surface of the fabric – I mean the actual weave of the fabric. Velvet, corduroy, fur – all of those are napped. If you’re not sure, try running your hand along the surface of the fabric. Does it feel “right” in one direction and “wrong” in every other way? That’s the nap. And when you layer two pieces of it together, the naps work against each other to make the layers walk apart as you sew. It’s maddening!

A walking foot helps, but what you really need are hundreds of pins. I show you all the details in this video.

Want to see that velvet bunny I mentioned earlier?

Here he is! His name is Bartholomew Bunny and he also has shiny tissue lamé ears. 🙂

Fancy Velvet Bunny - Bartholomew Bunny Pattern from Shiny Happy World

Have fun sewing with napped fabrics!

That's me!

Best,
Wendi

How to Sew Stretch Fabrics on a Regular Machine – video

How to sew Stretch Fabrics on a Regular Sewing Machine - a video tutorial from Shiny Happy World

Did you know that you can get an especially squishy softie by sewing it up out of an old T-shirt or other stretch fabric?

Did you know that you don’t need a serger to sew stretch fabrics?

In this video I give you some basic information about sewing stretch fabrics on a regular sewing machine. I show you what kind of needle you need to use and a couple of different options for the kinds of stitches to use – all the info you really need to get started.

If you want to learn about how to choose fabrics for your projects, start with this video where I cover the basics! 🙂

Want to practice?

Buck the super soft softie bunny

This is Bartholomew. He’s made using one of my very easiest patterns and an old T-shirt – worn to buttery softness. He’s soooooo soft and huggable! Click here to get the pattern.

I’ve got another post on a similar topic, showing how to sew squishy rag dolls out of stretch fabric.

Happy sewing!

Best,
Wendi
applique wendi

Carrot Full o’ Candy – Free Pattern

Carrot Full of Candy - free pattern

I was inspired by Chez Beeper Bebe’s remake of the classic paratrooper dimestore toy (You haven’t seen it? Well go check it out, for goodness’s sake! It’s fabulous!) and I decided to remake those carrot-shaped cellophane bags you find filled with candy at Easter.

My version is made from fabric – thus hiding what kind of candy is inside. Is it M&Ms? Is it jellybeans? Oooh – the suspense! Plus it’s reusable and feels so much nicer than the plastic bags. And – it’s oh so easy.

What you need

  • scraps of orange fabric
  • scraps of green fabric
  • sewing machine
  • thread
  • candy
  • less than an hour

Carrot Full of Candy - an easy and fun (and free!) fabric carrot pattern from Shiny Happy World

Step 1

Download the pattern templates here.

Press your fabric and cut out all your pieces as shown on the pattern page. You should have one orange wedge, one green piece, and two strips for ties.

Carrot Full of Candy - an easy and fun (and free!) fabric carrot pattern from Shiny Happy World

Step 2

Pin the carrot to the green, right sides together. You’ll be pinning a convex curve to a concave curve, so the green part will be floppy at the bottom. Sew using 1/4 inch seam allowance.

Carrot Full of Candy - an easy and fun (and free!) fabric carrot pattern from Shiny Happy World

Step 3

Open the carrot up and press the seam allowance toward the green.

Step 4

Fold one strip in half the long way and stitch along the long edge and one short edge. Turn the tube right side out and press flat. Repeat with the second strip.

Carrot Full of Candy - an easy and fun (and free!) fabric carrot pattern from Shiny Happy World

Step 5

Pin both strips to the green, 1 inch from the seam between orange and green, with the raw edges of the strips lined up with the raw edges of the green.

Fold the carrot wedge in half the long way, right sides together, with the strips sandwiched between the layers.

Stitch up the long seam using 1/4 inch seam allowance.

Step 6

Trim away any excess seam allowance from the tip of the carrot and turn it right side out. Press the seam flat. Trim the raw edge of the green with pinking shears, fill the carrot with candy, and tie it closed.

Carrot Full of Candy - an easy and fun (and free!) fabric carrot pattern from Shiny Happy World

Finished!

Happy stitching!

Best,
Wendi

Using Buttons for Eyes

Using Buttons for Softie Eyes

If I’m making a toy that’s not for a baby, I sometimes like to use buttons for eyes. You can use buttons with four holes, like this. . .

original snake (1)

. . . but if you sew it on with your threads in an X it can make it look like your softie is dead.

I especially like using 2-hole buttons, because you can use the orientation of the holes to add some expression to the face. These two Blockheads have the holes in their button eyes placed up and down. I think it gives them an open, cheerful look.

Blockheads Beanbags sewing pattern

Placing the holes sideways made them look kind of sleepy. When I tried out the button eyes on the Snake Charmers (a free sewing pattern), I decided I wanted the sleepy look.

Snake Toy - free sewing pattern

My first thought was to place them up and down, so that the football-shaped divet in the middle of the button would be reptilian-looking. But when I tested them out that way he looked kind of menacing. Sideways (and maybe sleepy?) was much friendlier-looking.

So do use buttons for eyes, but don’t just stitch them on all willy-nilly. Use the button holes as a design element and try out a few different orientations to see what looks best.

If you’re trying to decide between button eyes, safety eyes, felt, eyes, and embroidered eyes, click over to this post for a good overview of your options.

Happy stitching!

Best,
Wendi
That's me!