Homespun Boutique: Yarn store in Ithaca, NY

November 6, 2011


store: Homespun Boutique
address: 314 E. State Street, Ithaca, NY 14850
date of visit: October, 2011

I had no idea what to expect when I visited Homespun Boutique. it’s a store with no website or Ravelry listing… which often means it’s an outdated yarn store with not so lovely yarns. Fortunately, Homespun Boutique far exceeded my expectations!

The shop isn’t enormous, but it packs a whole lot of luxury yarn into a little space. You’ll find most of the brands you’re used to finding in a well-stocked LYS, plus some wools from farms local to Upstate NY.

Half of the store is filled with yarn, neatly stacked on shelves, and other half of the store is stocked with bolts of beautiful and modern fabrics.

There didn’t appear to be a table in the main store area for sitting & stitching, but the store advertised classes, so perhaps there’s a separate area, or a table gets moved in. The shop is located right in the heart of downtown Ithaca, so it’s a convenient walk if you’re visiting! I would recommend a stop in if you’re in town!

Tips for storing knitting & crochet projects

October 25, 2011

Most of us have a couple of knitting or crochet Works-in-Progress going on at one time. For today’s Tip Tuesday blog post, I’ve gathered ideas about different ways to store in-progress works. Store them neatly, and you’ll avoid the perils losing your hook or spare yarn associated with the project!

I gathered ideas by asking my twitter friends how they store WIPs. They all agreed… storing WIPs needn’t be expensive, but the storage has to keep the project together and tidy.

Questions to ask yourself before selecting a storage mechanism

  • Where do you crochet/knit? If you store and work on your WIPs in the living room, then portability might not be very important. If you tend to carry a few projects around in your purse, then you’ll need to make sure your method is travel-hardy!
  • What’s important for you to keep on hand? Some stitchers keep only the current work stored. Others like to gather up all of the yarn they’ll need for the project, plus that extra needle. Knowing how much you like to store will help you determine the kind of storage you’ll need.
  • What size are the projects you work on? If you love making afghans, you’ll need a larger tote or basket. If lacey shawls are your fave project, then a smaller bag will do. Most knitters/crocheters need a variety!
  • Do you need any extra accoutrements? In this post, I’m showing off different bag/holder ideas, but storage doesn’t end there! Think about if you need any extra tools for storing. For example, if you want to carry around a pair of socks on double points, you’ll probably also want to invest in some point protectors or a DP tube so that your socks don’t fall off of your needles while in your bag.

Storage Options

Ziplock bags
The most popular way of storing WIPs was hands-down the Ziplock bag. They come in various sizes (try the gallon size for projects like scarves, quart size for socks and mittens), are inexpensive and see-through. Since they’re transparent, you can instantly see what project is inside (a must when you start to gather WIPs). As an added bonus, you can either write on the bag itself, or stick a note inside that reminds you of crucial project info.

Cloth tote/ Reusable grocery bags
Many of us have reusable grocery bags in our home. These make great storage bags.

These bags often have handles, which makes them easy to carry around. They’re also suitable for larger projects because of their size. Lululemon bags (pictured above) come along with any purchase you make, and have a snap at the opening that’s great for keeping projects inside.

Plastic shoeboxes
If you aren’t interested in portability, then plastic shoeboxes are a great storage idea. They stack (meaning they’ll fit nicely in a corner of your room) and they’re often transparent.

For your larger projects, you can grab plastic boxes in larger sizes that are still stackable and tidy.

Your yarn store’s bag
You’re already buying the yarn… why not use the bag as a project bag?

Many yarn stores actually keep future-use in mind when ordering their bags… so make use of it!

Fancy project bags
I, of course, advocate re-using bags and making do with what you have. But, every once in a while, you need to get yourself something nice… so why not make it a lovely project bag?

You can purchase project bags in every shape, size and fabric! Check your LYS (they’re bound to carry a few styles) or have a look around Etsy (search for ‘project bag’). Erin Lane stocks a large selection of project bags- including the adorable drawstring bag pictured. I also love the square zippered bags from JessaLu. Have a look around… you’ll probably want to treat yourself to one!

How do you store your WIPs?

Please share! I’m always on the lookout for new ideas!

Ultimate Crochet Hook Review: the review!

October 21, 2011

As I said before, there’s no such thing as a perfect hook. What works well for one person may be a disaster for someone with a different crocheting style. The best thing that I can do, as a reviewer, is tell you the pluses and pitfalls of various crochet hooks. What you end up loving is going to be dependent on your style! On Wednesday, you learned what kinds of hooks suit your particular crochet style (if you weren’t here on Wednesday, no worries… go do it now!).

There are oodles of crochet hooks on the market, and I didn’t have the time to review them all! And, to be honest with you, I’m not sure you’d be interested in reading all of them. I mean, lots of companies make a bamboo hook… and the differences between them are pretty minimal. So, in this review, I’ve focused on hooks that are different from the rest!

They each have pros and cons… and only some will be suited for your particular crochet needs. Let me know which ones work for you!

Addi Swing

The Addi Swing is the ‘most ergonomic’ hook that I’ve tried: it really is made to fit perfectly in the palm of your hand. It also has some flexibility (the actual handle is some type of plastic, without the metal hook penetrating into the handle), so it’s very comfortable on your hands.

And the hook is made from the same high-polished chrome as the Addi knitting needle (my personal favorite needle), making for low-friction and speedy crocheting.

Even though I love holding the hook, I don’t love actually crocheting with it. Perhaps my hands are too small? I can’t pin it down exactly, but something about the design of the hook forces my palm to be further from my thumb than I like it to be. Despite giving it a fair go, I just can’t get used to it.

Pluses: The handle is super-comfortable, the head is quick and the hooks are clearly labelled for size.
Pitfalls: Because the hook is made to fit the hand, it might not be perfect for everyone’s hand or crocheting style.
Verdict: Totally worth giving a try if your hands are a bit achy. Although, I might try to find a friend with one to test out before splurging.

Kollage Square Crochet Hook

The square handle was invented by Kollage… so it’s completely unique to the brand. The package claims that the hook decreases stress and strain, and is perfect for those who have arthritis or carpal tunnel syndrome.

I have the same general comment with this hook as the Addi… it feels fabulous! But, I have trouble crocheting with it. Maybe it’s me! The Kollage hook has the thumb rest 1″ lower than the Susan Bates or Addi Premium hooks, which for me, is just too far away. However, I think there are oodles of people out there who would love this hook.

Pluses: The handle is super-comfortable and isn’t as ‘hand-specific’ as other ergonomic hooks.
Pitfalls: The thumb rest is much lower than other hooks, which may require some adjustment for folks.
Verdict: Feels lovely, but like other ergonomic hooks on the ‘nice’ side, I’d try to touch one in person before committing.

Susan Bates Bamboo Handle

This hook sports the ‘standard’ Susan bates hook, with a bamboo handle below the thumb rest.

Because the handle is below the thumb rest, using this hook feels a lot like crocheting with a Standard Susan Bates hook. The advantage is a slightly bigger handle to hold on to.

Pluses: The bamboo handle may feel more comfortable for some crocheters.
Pitfalls: Since only the handle (below the thumb rest) is bamboo, the design may not be sufficiently ‘comforting’ enough for those with pain to experience relief.
Verdict: If you’re in love with Susan Bates hooks, and are looking for a step up, give this one a try.

ChiaoGoo Comfort Grip

This hook features a sleek metal head with an oval-shaped bamboo handle, laser-etched with the hook size information.

The bamboo on this hook is super-smooth… I just love touching it! The handle is also very comfortable: fits nicely in your hand without being over-shaped.

Pluses: The hook feels wonderful, and gives a nice handle for someone who wants to hold onto wood, but crochet with metal. Unlike other comfort hooks, the handle begins comparatively high up the shaft, making this hook comfortable for those with smaller hands.
Pitfalls: This hook is about 1/2″ shorter than other hooks, so it may not be comfortable for those with bigger hands.
Verdict: If you have arthritis (that’s helped by working with wood over metal), this hook and the Kollage are two hooks on the market that still allow you to crochet with the speed of a metal head. This hook may not be for you if you have larger hands, but see if you can try it out in person. This hook feels amazing to the touch.

Addi Comfort Grip

This hook features the same head as the Addi Swing (above), but with a much simpler handle. The handle is slightly thicker than normal hooks, and provides ridges for better grip.

The hook is marked only with ‘5’ (it’s a 5.0mm size H hook), which might not be convenient for those who haven’t fully gotten the hang of the metric system. The handles, though, are also color-coded, which is useful for picking the right size out quickly from a whole assortment.

Pluses: This hook gives you a bit more to hold onto than a plain hook, and the ridges will be welcome to people who find metal hooks too slippery. (yes, one side-effect of crocheting too speedily is sweaty hands!)
Pitfalls: There isn’t much ‘comfort’ to this hook except that the handle is thicker than an average hook.
Verdict: If you find an average hook too skinny, this handle will be a welcome improvement for you. I’m not convinced it’s the best hook for those looking for comfort in the sense of ‘lessening aches in hands while crocheting’.

Furls hand-carved hook

This hand-carved hook is a fabulous piece of artistry. I can’t believe someone out there has the talent to make these… but obviously, the folks at Furls do!

The hook is absolutely beautiful, feels incredibly smooth and has a medium-pointy point. The shaft on the hook is tapered, which means that there isn’t a part of the hook that has a resting place for the stitches (perhaps there’s a centimeter where it isn’t tapered? It’s hard to tell.). This feature will probably make it difficult for many crocheters to obtain an even gauge… although maybe it just takes practice.

Pluses: This. hook. is. stunning.
Pitfalls: The tapered shaft is a sticky point. In practice, my loop slides way too far down the handle, giving me bigger stitches than I’d wanted.
Verdict: With practice, you could probably develop a rhythm that will give you even stitches. Functionality aside, this hook is beautiful, and makes an amazing addition to any collection.

Susan Bates SmartGlo hooks

These hooks really do glow in the dark!

I tried these hooks out during my 36-hour power outage (courtesy of Hurricane Irene), and although they really glowed, they’re not meant to actually let you crochet in the dark. These hooks would be beneficial if you’re working on very dark yarn or if your eyes need extra light as you work (as so many of us do as we age).

Pluses: They’re fun! They glow… that’s kinda cool.
Pitfalls: They aren’t a replacement for a lamp.
Verdict: Being a youngster with great eyes (I’m actually light-sensitive, so I’m rarely seeking out more lighting) who works at home (where I can turn on a lamp if I want), I probably wouldn’t use these. But, if you work on-the-go in places where the lighting isn’t great (the subway comes to mind), these might give you the boost you need!

Ultimate Crochet Hook Review Wrap-up

Phew! That’s a lot of hooks! There’s even more on the market… there’s too many to get them all!

I really hope you’ve enjoyed all of this information and maybe you’ve spied a new hook you want to try!

I’d love to hear in the comments about your favorite hook! What’s the one you love using now? Are there any you’re inspired to try? Let me know!

Ultimate Crochet Hook Review: Susan Bates controversy

October 20, 2011

A few weeks ago, one event rocked the crochet world.

Okay, maybe I’m being a bit dramatic… but when word spread that Susan Bates had changed its hook design, there was a whole lotta chatter about it!

Susan Bates (aluminum, size H) has always been my absolute favorite crochet hook. And, not because it’s cheap (even though it is). I loved the little-bit pointy point and deep groove. It just fit me.

What’s the new design like?
The new design features a rounder point and a shallower groove (although, the shallower groove seems to be the result of a smaller head, not of a change in the depth of the groove, per se).

Front view: old hook, left and new hook, right

Side view: old hook, left and new hook, right
I contacted Coats and Clark (the makers of Susan Bates hooks), and received this response:

The rounded head on the Susan Bates crochet hook is actually the original design for this product. Over the years, many of our long-time consumers have told us how much they prefer the original head as it doesn’t split the yarn the way the more pointed head does. When we were given the opportunity to return to that design, we took it.

Please note that the inline feature of our crochet hooks remains the same; the hook is the same size from the throat of the head to the thumb rest, ensuring a consistent size to all your stitches.

The new, rounded head resembles the head available in Boye, Addi and many other crochet hook brands. However, Susan Bates is keeping its signature inline throat, which is a comparatively unique feature among hooks.

Which hooks are affected?
Most of the Susan Bates hooks are being revised according to the new design. However, I discovered that a Luxite hook I recently received had the design I know and love. I emailed Coats and Clark to find out if it was a remnant, or if the design will remain unchanged. I received this response:

The Luxite hooks up to size P have a typical Susan Bates In Line head. The Q hook has an A Line head. They have not changed.

For now, it seems, the Luxite hook is keeping the old design. However, I could not get any comment on whether this design is be the permanent Luxite design, or if it is scheduled to be redesigned in the future.

Moving forward…
If you were in love with the old Susan Bates design, you have a couple of options: you can switch to the Luxite hook (which, for now, isn’t changing in design) or scope out yard sales for some older hooks.

The Susan Bates hooks are keeping their signature inline hooks… a feature I know many folks appreciate!

Ultimate Crochet Hook Review: which hook is right for you?

October 19, 2011

There’s no such thing as the perfect crochet hook. There may be a perfect hook for you, but not all hooks work for all people.

Yesterday, you learned all about the differences between different styles of hooks. Today, you’re going to learn how to pick a hook that’s right for you.

Finding the right hook for you takes some trial and error, but you can narrow down your search by paying attention to your crochet habits. Here’s a little quiz that will help you out:

Do you roll your hook? When you’re crocheting, do you roll the handle around in your hand? Or do you like to keep your thumb firmly planted? If you’re a roll-er, then you’d do best with a hook without a thumb rest.

pictured: Susan Bates Bamboo Handle

Hooks to try: ChiaoGoo Bamboo, Addi Bamboo, Addi Comfort Grip, Clover Takumi, Etimo Cushion Grip.

Do you crochet tightly? If you tend to crochet very tightly, a hook with a tapered throat will probably only make the problem worse (as you’re tempted to pull the yarn tightly around the thinner parts of the throat). Try a hook with an inline throat.

Hooks to try: Susan Bates (all models), any hook made from Bamboo (because of the way tapered hooks thin at the top, most wooden/bamboo hooks feature inline throats for strength).

Are you always splitting your yarn? If so, you probably need a hook with a rounder (rather than a pointier) tip.

Hooks to try: HiyaHiya, Addi Comfort Grip, Susan Bates (Bamboo, Quicksilver and Aluminum), Boye crochet hook, Kollage Square Hook, Addi Swing, ChiaoGoo Bamboo Handle.

Do you find it difficult to insert your hook into the next stitch? Then you’re a candidate for a pointy crochet hook!

pictured: ChiaoGoo Premium Bamboo hook

Hooks to try: Almost any wooden/bamboo crochet hook sports a pointy tip, including: Addi Bamboo, ChiaoGoo Bamboo, Clover Takumi, Brittany

Do you toss your hooks into one bag and then forget what size they are? You need a hook that has the hook size permanently etched/carved into the hook. Otherwise, you’ll be stuck pulling out your gauge every time you need to crochet!

Hooks to try: Addi Comfort Grip (color-coded handles), Susan Bates (raised lettering on all models), Boye (raised lettering), ChiaoGoo (sizes laser-etched into all models), Boye (raised lettering on all models)

Have you broken your fair share of hooks? You’ll need one that’s super strong. There are a few varieties to try. Metal hooks are very difficult to break. Plastic hooks are flexible, so they bend easily and are slow to break.

Hooks to try: Any metal or acrylic hook. If you love bamboo, try ChiaoGoo, which is made from Chinese Moso bamboo, which is supposed to be the strongest bamboo around.

Do you find it hard to ‘catch’ your yarn while crocheting? A hook with a deep groove may be just the answer you’re looking for.

Hooks to try: Kollage Square hook, Susan Bates (all models).

Looking for something a little fancy? Do you make a statement with your hook? Then you’d probably love one with a decorative handle.

pictured: Furls handcarved hook

Hooks to try: Furls handcarved hook, Brittany.

Do your hands ache after too much crocheting? A handle with a comfort or ergonomic grip might help you out. A comfort grip is a handle that is bigger than a standard handle, and easier to hold. Ergonomic grips are curved to fit in the palm of your hand.

pictured: ChiaoGoo Comfort Grip

Hooks to try: Addi Swing, Addi Comfort Grip, Etimo Comfort Grip, ChiaoGoo Comfort Grip, Susan Bates Bamboo Handle, Kollage Square Hook.

Do you have arthritis? If you have arthritis, crocheting can be an achy task. You may find crocheting with an ergonomic or comfort grip (above) more comfortable. I’ve heard some folks with achy hands prefer plastic hooks (since they bend in your hand as you work) or wooden/bamboo hooks (because they’re warmer than metal) helpful.

Hooks to try: Susan Bates Crystalites, ChiaoGoo bamboo, Clover Takumi.

Do you have trouble seeing your stitches? If you need a lot of light to see well while crocheting, a light-up or glow-in-the-dark hook might come to your rescue!

Hooks to try: Susan Bates SmartGlo, Clover Crochet Lite.

How’d you do in the quiz? I’m a thumb-rest user who tends to split stitches and likes a deep groove… how about you?

Here are handy links to all the posts about crochet tools and supplies.

Return to the main table of contents for Let’s Learn to Crochet Amigurumi.

Move on to the posts about yarn.

Happy stitching!

Ultimate Crochet Hook Review: anatomy in action

October 18, 2011

So, yesterday you learned terminology associated with hook anatomy, and have a rough idea of ways in which hooks can differ… but what do all these differences look like in action? What’s the difference between a pointy and a rounded point? Let’s find out!

Finding out how to identify these differences in real-life hooks is crucial to helping you find your dream hook!

Points

The point of a hook makes a big difference to the way you crochet. A pointier point allows you to stick your hook into the next stitch much more easily than a rounded point, but comes at the risk of splitting your yarn. If you’re using a splitty yarn, then a rounder point is advisable.

Grooves

The groove is what catches your yarn as you pull it through the loop you’re working on. If the groove is too shallow, you’ll lose your yarn. If it’s too deep, it may get in the way of your crocheting rhythm. You may find that, as you become more experienced, your preference for groove depth changes.

Throats

An inline throat means that the width of the throat is the same all the way down the hook. This style helps some crocheters keep a more even gauge (especially for those who tend to crochet tightly). A tapered hook is much smaller at the top compared to where the throat meets the shaft.

Shafts

The shaft of the hook is what determines the size of your stitches. Since it’s job is to produce an even-sized stitch, most hooks have a straight shaft. However, occasionally, you’ll find a hook with a tapered shaft, and you’ll need to practice to make sure your gauge is spot on.

Thumb rests

A hook may or may not have a thumb rest. For some crocheters, a thumb rest is a convenient place to put your thumb and a way to maneuver the hook. For others, it just gets in the way. Whether or not you need one depends on your crocheting style.

Handles

The handle doesn’t need to be made from the same material as the hook. Many hooks have handles that are just an extension of the hook (or are ‘plain). Other hooks have comfort or ergonomic handles for your crocheting comfort. A ‘comfort handle’ is bigger than a plain one, and easier to grip. An ‘ergonomic handle’ is specifically shaped to rest in your hand for maximum comfort.

What’s the right one for you?

How do you know if you need a pointy point or a rounded one? That’s tomorrow’s topic!

Ultimate Crochet Hook Review: hook anatomy

October 17, 2011

Welcome to day one of my Ultimate Crochet Hook Review! I’m so excited to be running this series on my blog. Do you know why? Because there are so many crochet hooks out there, it often feels impossible to choose the right one for you! So, this week, I’m going to talk about the nitty-gritty details about hook shape and design, how to identify your crocheting style, and help you pick the hook that’s right for you!

So, let’s get started! How well do you know your crochet hook? Before you can figure out which hook will work best for you, you’ve got to get to know the basic anatomy of the hook.

Here’s a diagram:

Hook terminology

  • Point: this is the part of the crochet hook that pokes into the stitch you’re crocheting into. The point can range from very pointy to rather dull (rounded). Sometimes called the ‘tip’.
  • Groove: The groove is the indentation that catches the yarn as you pull it through a stitch. Grooves can be either deep or shallow, although there’s no standard way to ‘measure’ the ‘groove depth’.
  • Throat: the throat is the part of the hook where the loop transitions from being caught in the groove to its resting place on the shaft. Throats can be either ‘inline’ or ‘tapered’. This is perhaps one of the most salient features of a hook, and the throat style is often described on the package.
  • Shaft: the shaft is the part of the hook that the loop rests on while you are crocheting. It is the part of the hook that determines the size of your stitches.
  • Thumb rest: this part is pretty self-explanatory! It’s an optional indentation that allows you to rest your thumb on the hook.
  • Handle: another self-explanatory part! The handle is the part of the hook that you’ll hold while crocheting. Handles are usually made from the same material as the rest of the hook, but some styles of hook feature ergonomic or comfort handles.

More hook differences

In addition to the points raised above (inline vs. tapered throat, pointy vs. rounded point, etc.), hooks can differ in many other ways. Hooks can be made in many different materials (metal and bamboo are 2 of the most common), of course, come in different sizes and those sizes can be printed on the hook in different ways (ranging from ‘not at all’ to ‘laser inscribed’).

What the heck does all that mean? Want to know what all of these differences mean to you and your quest for the perfect hook? You’ll have to come back for the rest of the series! (it’s way too much for one blog post!)

The colorway I’m freaking out about…

July 16, 2011

Every once in a while, I spot a yarn that I totally fall in love with. My current obsession is Claudia Handpainted Fingering weight yarn in colorway: Circus Dancer.

Isn’t it beautiful? I’m obsessed with the super-bright blue, orange, pink and green! I couldn’t help but start swatching immediately with it…


This stitch pattern is called ‘Wavy Shell Stitch I’, and is from Harmony Guides: Basic Crochet Stitches… doesn’t it complement these awesome colors beautifully?


All I can say is ‘yummy’!

Best,
Stacey

What size is my crochet hook?

July 12, 2011

Welcome to another Tip Tuesday! Today, I’m going to tell you how to figure out what size your crochet hook is.

Now, if your crochet hook has the size written on it (either a letter or a number), then you can stop reading this blog post and continue crocheting. However, if you have an older hook, a handmade hook or perhaps a hook from a lesser-known company (that may not always write the size on the hook), then you’re going to need a way to know what size it is!


Meet Mr. Gauge… he’s your friend! Many people think that needle gauges are just for knitters (including, apparently, Susan Bates- the maker of this gauge- since it’s called ‘knit-check’), but it’s not true! A gauge will tell you what size your hook is!


First, look at your crochet hook. The part you want to measure is what’s called the ‘shaft’, and it’s the part below the hook that’s a plain cylinder. Don’t measure the very skinny part right below the hook (this is called the throat), because then you won’t get an accurate size.


Now that you know what part of the hook to measure, stick it in each hole of the gauge! If your hook doesn’t fit into the hole, then that’s not the right one. You’re looking for the hole that is exactly the same size as the shaft of your hook… check out the picture above- see how my hook is an H? There’s no extra wiggle room!


It’s pretty easy to tell that my hook isn’t a size L… look at all that extra room! No good!

So, there you have it! If you’ve got any mysterious hooks, grab a gauge and you’ll know what size they are!

Selecting a scale for yarn use

September 21, 2010

Last week, I purchased a new postage scale, because my last one went kaput… and I’m very pleased with my new one! So, I thought I would share some features that I considered when purchasing a new scale.

You may be asking, why do you need a postage scale for knitting & crocheting? I find that it comes in handy fairly often:

  • If you are planning on knitting two socks at a time (or some other project that requires you to divide a skein of yarn), you can use the scale to wind the ball into two even halves.
  • When designing, I often need to give the exact yardage required for a pattern. The easiest way to do this is to weigh how much yarn you have left over from a skein, and calculate how much yardage you used. (or, you can weigh your finished piece and calculate yardage… either way, a scale really helps!)
  • Anytime you have a partial skein laying around in your stash, it can be helpful to weigh it and calculate how many yards are left- that way, you can find a pattern that you have enough yarn for.

So, now that I’ve (maybe) convinced you that a postage scale is a must-have, I’ll suggest a couple of scale features that I find very useful:

  • A digital scale It’s very useful to have accuracy to the tenth of an ounce, and digital scales provide this accuracy in a small package.
  • AA Batteries This is a personal preference of mine, but I like to be sure that all of my electronics (camera, scale, clocks, remotes, etc) use AA or AAA batteries. I use rechargeable batteries, and this way, I can always be sure I have a charged pair of the right size battery on hand. Some scales use an adapter, but I’m not a huge fan. First, you need to keep track of the adapter. Second, I’ve had adapters die on me (while the item still functions fine), and it can be a pain (and really expensive) to purchase the correct adapter for a specific item. Third, if you take an item that uses an adapter overseas, you’ll need to use a converter- a problem that you don’t really run into with batteries.
  • Grams and Ounces I prefer having the ability to view the weight in either grams or ounces. This is becoming quite a common feature, so chances are, you’ll end up with this capability.
  • On/Off switch Some scales have an ‘automatic off’, which is handy if you’re the type of person who accidentally leaves things on a lot. However, I’m not one of those people, and I prefer turning the scale off manually- which saves batteries over the automatic off.
  • An adequate tray If you buy a postage scale, this is probably a non-issue, but you want to make sure that the scale has a tray (the thing you put stuff on) large enough to hold a skein of yarn. Depending on the type of yarn you tend to use (are you a chunky-weight knitter?), you may want an even larger tray.

In the end, I purchased the Escali Primo Digital Scale from Amazon. It had all of the features I wanted, and the price was reasonable. There are lots of choices out there, so you’re sure to find one that suits you!