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Free Tissue Pack Cover Pattern

February 24, 2014

‘Tis the season for sniffles. Which means it’s the perfect time to pull out this cute little monster tissue pack cover pattern and whip up some cute gifts! It’s super easy and the pattern is free.

Oh – and if a little case of the sniffles turns into a full-blown cold with a cough and achy chest – take a look at this post for instructions to make a Vicks Vapo-rub scented rice bag – complete with this monstrous rice bag cover to help scare away the cough.

Here’s how to make the tissue pack cover.

Throughout the pattern, the links go to online video tutorials demonstrating the techniques used.

Materials You’ll Need

6″ x 7″ rectangle of fabric for the outside
6″ x 7″ rectangle of fabric for the lining
two 6″ pieces of white rickrack
1″ colored buttons
two 5/8″ black buttons
sewing machine, thread, basic sewing tools

Instructions

Step 1

Draw a line 1/8 from the short edge on the right size one of your fabric rectangles.

Watch a video here showing how to embed rickrack in a seam.

Step 2

Position one of the pieces of rickrack so that the line you drew in Step 1 is just barely showing in the valleys at the top edge of the rickrack.

Step 3

Sew the rickrack in place, right along the line you drew.

Step 4

Lay the second rectangle of fabric face down over the first, with the rickrack sandwiched between the layers. Sew them together using a 1/4″ seam allowance.

Step 5

Open the piece up and flip it right side out. Press. See how the rickrack makes nice teeth?

Fold the piece in half and mark the midpoint with a pin. Arrange the button eyes on either side of the center point. I’ve stacked black buttons on top of blue buttons but you can use any combination of buttons and felt you like to get the effect you want.

Sew the buttons in place, sewing only through the top (purple) layer of fabric.

Step 6

Repeat Steps 1 – 4 to embed rickrack in the seam at the other end of the rectangle.

The two rectangles of fabric should be right sides facing, with both short ends sewn together (with rickrack embedded in the seams) and eyes sewn to the purple layer at one end only. At this point, the long sides of the rectangles should still be unsewn.

Step 7

Sew the long side seams. Leave a couple of inches unsewn in the center of one side so you can turn it right side out.

Clip the corners up to (but not into) the stitching to eliminate extra bulk.

Step 8

Turn it right side out and use a chopstick to carefully poke out the corners so they’re flat. Press the whole thing.

Fold it in half and mark the center points on both sides with pins.

Step 9

With the eyeball (purple) side facing up, fold the toothy edges into the center.

Pin in place.

Step 10

Sew the short edges using a 1/4″ seam allowance. This will close up the turning hole and sew the sides of your pack in one move.

Repeat for the other side.

Step 11

Turn it right side out. Ta daa! A tissue pack! Monstrous on the outside, nicely finished on the inside.

Fill it with a pack of travel tissues (I like to take them out of the pack first - all the different brands seem to open different ways) and he’s ready to go.

Get well soon!

If you like this silly tissue pack cover pattern, sign up for the Shiny Happy News! Members get a weekly email with crafty tips and tricks, links to free patterns, special discounts, and more. 🙂

Zen Stitching – How to Embroider a Mandala with No Pattern

February 10, 2014

Want to learn the basics of hand embroidery with an easy online workshop – totally free?

Sign up for Embroidery 101 here. You’ll learn how to get started, the tools and supplies you’ll need, the four most basic stitches, how to transfer your pattern and how to display your work.

If you already know the basics – sign up for Embroidery 201. It’s also free! You’ll learn how to stitch on specialty fabrics like felt and stretchy T-shirts. Plus you’ll learn lots and lots and LOTS more stitches – all my favorites!

This is one of my favorite kinds of stitching.

Stitching with no pattern.

If regular embroidery is coloring in slow motion, this is doodling in slow motion.

Doodling with a needle and thread. I love it!

When you get into the right frame of mind, it’s the most wonderful, absorbing way to embroider.

Do you think something like that mandala is way too complicated to stitch without a pattern? Or that you don’t have the skills?

Think again!

It’s almost all simple straight stitches, with just a few lazy daisies and French knots thrown in for fun. And I’m going to show you right now how to build the pattern. If you can connect dots you can do this.

One warning here – this isn’t speed stitching.

It’s sloooooow stitching.

It’s enjoy-the-process stitching.

It’s savor-the-moment stitching.

Have fun with it!

Step 1 Start with some circles of felt.

These are small – they’re in a 3 inch hoop. I like to work small when I do this – large can be overwhelming.

I centered them by eye. This doesn’t have to be perfect, but I was pretty careful.

Time to start stitching. The key is to start in the center and work my way out.

Step 2 I started with those green spokes. Come up in the center and stitch to the north, south, east and west points. These are going to be your guides for all the rest of your stitching, so take your time and get them nice and straight. You can stitch a plus sign, right?

Step 3 I stitched in between those spokes to add northeast, southeast, southwest and northwest spokes.

Woo hoo! I have guiding marks for the rest of my stitching!

Step 4 I filled in the wedges created by those spokes. Each wedge got a French knot, a lazy daisy, and a little straight stitch – all centered between the spokes on either side.

You don’t have to do these stitches. Do whatever strikes your fancy! Just try to keep whatever you do centered in the wedge.

Then I moved out to the next ring.

Step 5 I started with the pink triangles. I stitched a straight stitch from the yellow stitch at the end of each lazy daisy (A) to a point in line with the green spokes, halfway across the grey felt ring (B). If you need to see the image bigger you can click on it.

See how I used the stitches that were already there (the green spokes and the yellow dashes) as guides? That keeps everything even and lined up and helps you build a complex-looking pattern very simply.

Step 6 After I worked the pink triangles all around, I added the purple spokes that go from the yellow dash (A) to the edge of the grey ring (C).

Step 7 I liked the look of the pink zigzags, so I worked purple zigzags all the way around, stitching from the ends of those long spokes I made in Step 6 (C) to the top of each pink triangle (B).

I just keep filling in the space, working from points already created. It’s just connecting the dots and filling in the spaces created when I connect the dots. I never plan the next step until I’m ready to stitch it.

Step 8 I created those yellow spokes, stitching from the center of each pink triangle (where the yellow French knots are) to the edge of the grey ring (D).

Step 9 Everything was looking a little stick-like at that point, so I added the French knots inside each pink triangle to change up the texture a bit.

Time to move out to the last ring.

This time points C and D were my main markers, because they’re the ones that go all the way to the edge of the grey ring.

Step 10 I started with the point at the tip of the purple zigzag (C) and stitched a spoke to the edge of the pink ring. I did it in two stitches because it was a wider ring – which gave me the idea to stitch a lazy daisy coming leaf coming out of each side of that spoke/stem.

Step 11 I stitched a couple more straight stitches from just past the end of each lazy daisy to a point straight out from the yellow spokes in the grey ring (E).

Step 12 I stitched the little yellow bursts from the end of each yellow spoke (D), kind of filling in the space in those green points I created in Step 11.

Step 13 I liked those yellow bursts, so I added some little yellow rays coming out of where the lazy daisy stitches joined the spoke/stems from Step 10.

Step 14 I was still liking the pop of the yellow bursts, so I added smaller bursts at the top of each green stem/spoke.

I was almost done – I just wanted to add a bit more color and more French knots to change the texture again.

Step 15 I added blue French knots at the base of the yellow bursts created in Step 12.

Step 16 I had purple felt in the center and purple stitching in the middle ring. I felt like it needed more dark purple in the last ring, so I added French knots all around the edge, one on each side of the green points.

Done! Just take it one step at a time, work your way all the way around each ring, then build up the next level. As long as you stay lined up with your original points – those green spokes in the center – everything will line up and you’ll end up with a very complex-looking pattern.

What do you think? Anyone else want to try this kind of stitching? Do you want more info or to see more sample ideas? I’d love to share!

I hope you liked this tutorial. Want more? Sign up for the Shiny Happy News! I’ll keep you up to date about all the new tutorials here and also give you early access to any sales!

Happy stitching!

Best,
Wendi

Reusable Christmas Gift Bags

December 16, 2013

I don’t use paper gift wrap anymore. It’s expensive. It’s a pain to store. And the pile of it left after opening gifts always feels more than a little wasteful.

A couple of years ago I started making fabric bags for gifts. I love them! They’re so crazy easy to make – and they take no room at all to store when they’re not in use. Nice! Oh – and the ribbons are attached. No separate bows and no tape needed.

I make two different kinds. Ones that gather and tie at the top, like this one. . .

And ones that wrap around the gift and then tie, like this one. . .

Want to know how to make them? Be prepared for simplicity.

Cut two rectangles of fabric. Any size. I have a huge variety.

Sew them together around three sides (watch this video showing how to sew a straight line and turn corners if you’re a beginner). If you’re making the first kind of bag – the one that gathers and ties at the top – cut 1 yard of ribbon, fold it in half, and embed the fold in the side seam (video here), a few inches from the top of the bag. When you turn it right side out it will look like this. . .

Hem the top opening. (Video here.)

If you’re making the second kind of bag, cut a ribbon 2 times the length of the bag plus an additional yard. Fold it in half and sew the fold at top of the bag in the center of one side. It should look like this. . .

Done!

Wrapping is easy. Pop in the gift. Fold the top of the bag over. Tie the ribbon. Here’s what it looks like from the back. . .

And here it is from the front. . .

I don’t stick to holiday-ish fabric – we use these for birthdays and other occasions too.

A lot of mine use grosgrain ribbon because I have a lot of it on hand from some aprons I used to make and sell. But sometimes I use pretty gauzy ribbon.

Any fabric. Any ribbon. It all works well, looks pretty and folds up to store easily. Love!

Update – I got a lot of questions about how we tag them. I started using easy reusable felt tags, and there’s a tutorial here showing how to make them.

Happy sewing!

Best,
Wendi

My Awesomely Huge Ironing Board – An Ikea Hack How To

November 19, 2013

Awesome Extra Wide Ironing Board from Shiny Happy World

There are three things I LOVE about my awesome new ironing board.

One is obviously the fabric for the cover. This is The Land that Never Was designed by Lisa Congdon for Cloud9 Fabrics. I love the whole collection!

Two is the size. I can iron an entire piece of fabric – selvedge to selvedge – on this baby – with room to set my iron on the board too.

Please admire the vastness. 🙂

Three is the storage underneath.

I never take my ironing board down – so the easily collapsible X bottom was just a waste of space for me. This ironing board sits on some handy dandy Ikea Expedit shelving!

Here’s how I made it. . .

1. Start with your shelves. I was going to use a different piece from Ikea. When we went they had plenty in stock, but they were all on the top shelves of the storage area and they said they couldn’t get them down until after hours and we’d have to come back the next day. The Ikea is 2 1/2 hours away. Coming back the next day wasn’t an option – so we went with two of these instead, laid them on their sides and screwed them together in the back. It’s even longer than I had planned – but that’s ok with me! (Edited to add: Ikea no longer stocks the Expedit shelving. Their replacement is the Kallax, which would also be suitable for this project.)

I also added the wheels to the bottom for easy moving and vacuuming.

2. Now measure the top of your shelves. Find some small L-brackets and measure them too. You’re going to cut a piece of plywood big enough to hang over the edge of the shelf on all sides by the width of a bracket. These next pictures will make it clear.

Here’s a bracket (the ones I found were 1 1/2 inches) attached to the edge of the plywood. It’s attached to what will be the underside of my ironing board.

In this photo I’ve flipped my board over. It’s resting on the top of the shelving unit and the brackets are holding it in place so it doesn’t slide around. You could screw the brackets to the shelving unit too, but I wanted the whole top to be easily removable and I found that six brackets around the edge (two on each long side and one on each short end) held it in place nicely.

I wrapped the lower (not screwed in) part of the brackets with a layer of masking tape so they wouldn’t scratch the surface of the shelving unit. You never know – I might take this whole thing apart at some time in the future and use the shelves in another way.

Here’s the wooden top seen from above, before adding padding and the cover. Yes – that’s a seam down the middle. No – I don’t recommend doing the top in two pieces. I had a bunch of kids with me in the car the day I bought the wood and I couldn’t put the back seat down to accommodate a larger piece of plywood. I should have waited.

I rounded the corners of the wood just a tiny bit. I set a can of spray paint on the corner and traced that curved edge to use as a guide. This isn’t necessary – but I’m going to use a drawstring cover and it will wrap more neatly around a curve.

Now I’m ready to add some padding and the cover.

I covered the top with six layers of white cotton terry cloth. I usually use cotton batting, but I think this terry cloth might hold up better (compress less) over time. Cut the terrycloth so it hangs over the edge of the tabletop by 1-2 inches. Smooth out any folds or wrinkles.

Round the corners of the terrycloth too.

Now it’s time to add the pretty! A good selvedge on fabric makes me happy in the same way that good endpapers in a book make me happy.

From here on out it’s just like covering any ironing board. I’ve got a video here showing how.

Cut the fabric to cover the top plus 1-2 inches all around the edge – just like the terry cloth. Round the corners of the top fabric, too.

Sew bias tape all around the edge of the new cover. Use that bias tape as a tube and thread it with a long piece of cord. I like using a smooth nylon cord – it draws up easily.

Center your cover over your ironing board. Draw up the drawstring and use a toggle to hold it in place.

Ta daaaa! I love my new ironing board!

Here are handy links to all the posts about quilting tools and supplies.

Sewing Machine

Iron

Rotary Cutting Tools

Scissors

Other General Sewing Room Supplies

One More Hugely Popular Post that Seems to Fit Here Better than Anywhere Else

How to Declutter a Craft Room

Return to the Let’s Make a Quilt main Table of Contents.

Move on to the posts about choosing your quilt pattern.

Happy sewing!

Free Hot Stuff Apron Pattern

November 5, 2013

Here’s a little gift from me.

A free pattern for an apron you can make entirely from scraps!

That’s right – a stash-busting project that comes together really easily and makes a great hostess or holiday gift. If you can sew a straight line, you can make this apron. The pattern has links to videos teaching all the skills you’ll need – including how to sew a straight line. 🙂

The pattern includes sizes for kids and grown-ups – so it’s totally versatile. Make a mother-daughter set! Package it up with some gardening tools and seeds, or some cooking utensils and a couple of your favorite recipes for a nice, personal gift. Have fun with it!

Materials

scraps of fabric for apron and tie
rectangle of fabric for the lining - amount depends on measurements
sewing machine
thread
basic sewing tools

Step 1

Calculate the dimensions of your apron.

Measure all the way around the waist, and measure from the waist down to the desired length (usually anywhere from mid-thigh to the knee, depending on the look you prefer).

Length ____________ Waist _____________

You’re going to piece your apron front from 3 inch strips of fabric, so divide the total width of your apron (the waist measurement) by 2 1/2. That will tell you how many strips wide your apron top will be. If you don’t get an even number (and you probably won’t) round up.

Number of strips____________

From your scrap fabric, start cutting 3 inch wide strips. They can be any length you like I usually just go with the length of my scraps. Try to have a variety of long and short strips. Rotary cutting tools are ideal for this - learn how to use them here.

Start joining the strips together into longer strips. I usually join a few together until I have a strip longer than the length of my apron. Then I trim it to the desired length and start attaching more strips to what I cut off. Keep joining strips and cutting to the desired length until you have the desired number of strips. For my 8 year old daughter that was 8 strips, each 15 inches long.

Step 2

Now play with the layout of your strips. For this one I made sure to spread out the larger solid bits so they’re not touching each other. You may have a greater range of lights and darks that you’re trying to keep balanced - it will depend on your fabric selection. Just keep rearranging the strips until it feels balanced and happy.

This is the fun part so take your time and play a while. When you’re satisfied, sew the strips together using 1/4 inch seam allowance. Press everything nice and flat.

Step 3

You’ll want to cover up all those seam allowances. Basically, we’re going to make a quilt without the batting. Lay the backing fabric face down. Lay the patchwork rectangle face up over the backing fabric. Smooth it all out.

Trim the backing fabric to size - making sure it’s slightly bigger than the patchwork fabric all the way around.

Pin the two layers together.

Step 4

Stitch the two layers together by stitching as exactly as possible over your seam lines. This is called “stitching in the ditch.”

Also stitch the layers together 1/4 inch from the edge along both sides and the bottom. This will help you with a cheater pants hemming technique. No measuring!

Step 5

Now trim the backing so it’s even with the patchwork top all the way around.

Step 6

Hem each side of the main apron piece. Turn the edge under 1/4 inch. Press.

These hemming photos show the apron with the back side facing up.

See how I folded it right on the stitching line? That makes it soooooo easy to hem without measuring!

Step 7

Turn under another quarter inch. Press.

Stitch down very close to the folded edge of the fabric.

Repeat with the second side.

If you need a refresher on how to hem, watch this video.

Step 8

Now repeat with the bottom hem. Turn the bottom edge up 1/4 inch. Press.

The corners can get a little bulky here - so trim away an itty bit off the corner, from stitching line to stitching line.

Step 9

Turn the bottom edge under a second 1/4 inch. Press.

Stitch it down very close to the folded edge of the fabric.

The hems will give the back of your apron a nice frame around the bottom and sides.

Step 10

Time to make your apron tie. On a scrappy apron like this I especially like to make my tie out of scraps of fabric too. Cut enough 3 inch strips so that when joined together they are the desired length.

For a girl’s apron that ties in the back, you’ll need a total length of 58 inches. To double-wrap and tie in the front you’ll need 84 inches.

For a woman’s apron that ties in the back you’ll need 72 inches. To tie it in the front you’ll need 96 inches.

Join your strips together on the diagonal so you don’t get thick, bumpy bits in your tie. You can see how in this video.

Step 11

That video also shows how to fold the strip into double-fold tape. In a nutshell. . .

Fold it in half the long way.
Press.
Fold each long edge into the center.
Press.
Refold the center.
Press.
Open up the center fold and turn the short end under 1/4 inch.
Refold and press. Now you’ll have a neat end to your tie.

Yes – the fabric in the photos is changing here. 🙂 These instructions are exactly the same as for finishing the Easy Apron pattern. There’s a free tutorial for that here.

Step 12

Gather up the top edge of the apron until it’s the desired width, usually a little more than half of the total waist measurement.

This isn’t rocket science, so don’t tear out your hair (or your stitches) if you end up a little longer or shorter than you wanted. A little bit of variation won’t look bad. 🙂

There’s a video here showing two methods for gathering fabric.

Step 13

Fold your double-fold tape over the raw, gathered edge of the top of your apron. If you pin the center of your tie to the center of your apron piece and work your way out from that center point, it’s very easy to get everything even with no measuring.

Pin the double-fold tape in place.

Step 14

Stitch the folded edges together, the whole length of the waistband/tie.

Start at one end. Stitch the short end together. Turn the corner and stitch all the way down the length of the tie, enclosing the gathered edge of the apron top in the fold. Sew slowly, making sure that you are catching the back fold of the tape in your stitching. Turn the corner and stitch the other short edge.

Finished!

You’re done! Step back and admire your awesome thriftiness. I bet you have more scraps hidden away somewhere. You should make aprons for everyone you know!

Happy sewing!

Best,
Wendi

Crochet Mike the Monster from Monsters University!

October 28, 2013

I love monsters. And I love crocheting monsters. So, when I found out that Disney was looking for bloggers to write tutorials for crafts based on Monsters University, I nearly fell out of my chair.

My love for monsters must have poured through the computer screen… because here I am, sharing my super-awesome crochet tutorial with you!

This tutorial is celebrating the release of Monsters University (in a Blu-ray combo pack) tomorrow! Hooray!

How do you pick just one monster?

I’ll confess. It was really hard to pick a monster from Monsters University to turn into crochet-form. The movie is just so darn chock-full of adorable and creative monsters!

I was tempted by Squishy (the multi-eyed cutie with a knit sweater!) and Terry & Terry (the double-headed duo)… what great shapes!

But in the end… I had to go with familiar and loveable Mike.

You can crochet your own Mike!

To crochet Mike, you’ll need:

2 colors of worsted weight yarn: green (250 yards) and white (15 yards)
Size H (5.0mm) crochet hook
Tapestry Needle
Polyester stuffing
Small amounts of felt: black, white, grey and blue
Craft glue (one that works for fabrics)

Once you have your supplies gathered, download now.

The pattern download will take you step-by-step through the stitches you’ll need to bring Mike to life… too many for just one blog post!

One of the things I love about Monsters University is how lifelike the animation is… and I didn’t want to lose any of that detail in the crochet version. That’s why I made sure to give Mike separate fingers and toes!

It’s a little extra crocheting… but I hope you love the results!

Add the details…

Once you’ve finished crocheting the pieces, you’ll need to decide which expression you’re going to give to Mike… during the course of the movie, you’ll notice that he sports quite a few!

I decided to give Mike the wide grin (with retainer!) that’s featured on the cover of the DVD:

To make Mike’s mouth, use your pieces of felt and cut out the shapes you’ll need. First, cut a smile (or frown) from the black felt. Next, cut bumps (for teeth) from the white.

Here’s a trick: you don’t need to cut the teeth to fit the mouth perfectly. Just cut the top ridges for the teeth, then glue in place on the black mouth. Notice how, in my photo below, the white is hanging off the side of the black:

Once the glue dries, trim the excess white, and you’ll have a perfect mouth! A simple line of grey makes the retainer.

Since you’ve used yarn to make Mike, a craft glue will hold the smile in place:

Isn’t he so cute?

More accessory ideas

I’m a real sucker for the University-wear sported in the movie!

How cute would your crocheted Mike look with a knitted blue and white scarf? Or an MU pennant made from felt? Use your imagination!

You can also get super-creative and make multiple expressions… and attach them to Mike with use hook and loop tape! He’ll be a toy with many emotions!

Are you going to get crocheting?

I had so much fun watching Monsters University and crocheting a Mike… I see more monsters in my future.

I hope you absolutely love this free pattern download as much as I do!

Helpful Links

Grab Monsters University (coming out tomorrow!)… preorder now available!
Find Monsters University on Facebook

Be sure to share the cutie monster you crochet!

Disclosure: This is a compensated post from Disney and Blueprint Social. I received a copy of Monsters University. All opinions are my own. I received permission to create a pattern using the likeness of Mike.

Happy stitching!

Best,
Stacey

Free Pattern! A Simple Skirt for The Dress Up Bunch

August 27, 2013

Free Simple Skirt Pattern for The Dress Up Bunch

The Dress Up Bunch dolls now have a quick and easy skirt pattern you can make.

And it’s FREE!

Psst! I designed the skirt especially to fit all the dolls in The Dress Up Bunch collection – but it’ll also fit a ton of other dolls. It fits the American Girl dolls really well, and I guarantee it’ll also fit a bunch of random teddy bears and softies piled on any kid’s bed.

It pairs really well with the shirt from the free Play Clothes pattern.

So. The skirt. IT’S SO EASY!

Bean in free skirt pattern — No trim – just fabulous fabric.

You can make it super basic – with no trim. That’s what Bean is wearing here on the right. Just choose a fabulous fabric and you’re done.

Poppy’s skirt – the one you see on the cover – is made from mid-weight cotton twill and has a band of trim added above the hem. That’s a great way to add flat trims, like lace or rickrack or pretty ribbon. The pattern includes instructions for adding these. Of course.

The pattern also includes instructions for adding trim to the hem at the bottom of the skirt. That’s where you’d add any dangly trims, like fringe, tassels, pompoms, or these pretty beads.

pretty beaded fringe on the free Simple Skirt Pattern for the Dress Up Bunch — Ohh! Pretty beaded fringe!

I love the shiny blue beads with these tiny flamingos. Very beachy and fun.

Of course, like all my doll clothing patterns, there are instructions for leaving a tail opening for the critters in the collection. They like to have their waggin’ room!

Ready to make a fun skirt? They’re so easy – I bet you can’t make just one! 🙂

Materials

less than 1/4 yard fabric
12 inches 3/8″ elastic
24 inches fancy trim (optional)

Step 1

Cut a rectangle 7 inches tall x 24 inches wide.

Step 2

Prep the top and bottom edges for hemming.

Turn the top edge down 1/2″ and press. Turn it down another 1/2″ and press. Turn the bottom edge up 1/4″ and press. Turn it up another 1/4″ and press.

Don’t stitch the hems down yet - it’s just easiest to do all the pressing while it’s one flat piece.

Step 3

If you want to add trim to the middle of the skirt (like Poppy’s on the cover) now is the time to add it.

Sew it in place all along the 24 inches of the skirt. For wider trim like this, stitch it down at the top and the bottom. For something like rickrack I might use a zigzag stitch down the middle. It depends on the trim and the size. Use your best judgment.

Step 4

Unfold the creases you made in Step 2.

Sew up the center back seam of the skirt using 1/4″ seam allowance.

If you’re not leaving an opening for a tail, just sew the whole edge.

If you’re leaving a tail opening for critters, sew as shown in the photo.

Make sure to backstitch at the top and bottom of the tail opening so it’s nice and strong and holds up to lots of dressing and undressing. :-)

Step 5

Press the center back seam open.

If you are leaving a tail opening, stitch a box around the opening to stabilize it.

Here’s that boxed-in tail opening from the outside.

You’ll probably use a matching thread color I just wanted to make sure you could see the stitching. 🙂

Step 6

Refold the creases.

Stitch the hem down all the way around the skirt. If you’re adding trim to the bottom of the skirt, now is the time to add it.

I sewed this beaded fringe in place as I stitched down the hem. The beads are attached to a ribbon. I just laid the ribbon down over the folded hem and stitched through all the layers at once.

Here it is from the inside.

I stitched along the top and the bottom of the ribbon. I needed to use a zipper foot to stitch along the bottom of the ribbon, so I could get that close to the beads.

I could have sewed it so the ribbon was on the outside of the skirt. Use your best judgment based on the trim you’re using.

Step 7

Sew the casing at the top of the skirt.

Leave a couple of inches open at the top - at the back seam - so you can put in the elastic.

Step 8

Cut a 12″ piece of 3/8″ elastic and thread it through the casing. (A bodkin is SO MUCH EASIER than the safety-pin method I used to use!)

Overlap the ends of the elastic 1 inch and sew them together. Slip the stitched elastic up into the casing and finish sewing the casing closed.

Watch this video for more info on using elastic in a waistband.

Done! Press everything neatly, turn the skirt right side out and try it on.

With trim or without, these skirts are so quick and easy to make!

Need that shirt pattern? There’s a free pattern for the shirt (and a pair of shorts) here.

Have fun! And happy stitching!

Four Free Embroidery Patterns

August 13, 2013

It’s been a little while since I released an embroidery pattern – and now you know why! I’ve been working on this set of four free patterns – commissioned by Sulky, the maker of the thread I used. I posted a review of the Sulky thread here.

Now they’re ready to see the world – and you can make them!

All the samples are framed in 5-inch hoops but you can easily enlarge or reduce the patterns to be any size you like.

Tweet is a very pretty bird whose stitching looks more complicated than it actually is.

It uses just five very basic embroidery stitches!

If you’re just learning how to embroider, this is a terrific pattern to start with.

Download the free Tweet pattern here.

Blossom

This single flower is a great way to practice your French knots. I love using them all clustered together as a fill stitch, like in the center of this flower.

I used variegated thread for a nice mottled effect without needing to change thread.

You’re not scared of French knots, are you? I used to be – but then I figured out The Trick and now I get a perfect knot every time. Watch this video and learn how.

Download the free Blossom pattern here.

My Heart Is Full. . .

This is a great pattern to practice tiny stitching.

I made it sampler-like, with each row of pattern in the heart showcasing different stitches.

None of them are very complicated stitches – but they’re small. 🙂

Download the free My Heart Is Full. . . pattern here.

Jackie

Jackie is another great pattern for beginners.

She uses just five embroidery stitches – all of them very basic.

My favorite part is the polkadots outlined in a contrasting color. That seems like a tricky extra step – but it actually helps cover up any raggedy edges on your satin stitches. ***shhh. . . don’t tell***

Download the free Jackie embroidery pattern here.

Like all patterns from Shiny Happy World, the pattern has links to videos teaching you all the stitches and techniques used. And you can sell anything you make using the pattern – as long as you make it yourself. 🙂

Happy stitching!

Best,
Wendi

Daisy – a Free Felt Bird Pattern

June 21, 2013

Here’s a free felt bird pattern for you to play with! Her name is Daisy. 🙂

Want to make her? All it takes is some felt, a bit of stuffing, and a few easy embroidery stitches. And a pattern, of course. 🙂

She uses just half a sheet of wool-blend felt for the body (I used purple sage, but it’s since been discontinued), a few small scraps for the beak and comb (I used strawberry dream and straw), and embroidery thread in your favorite colors.

You can find links to sources for all my favorite supplies here.

Here’s how to make her!

Step 1

Download the free Daisy felt bird pattern templates here.

Print (or trace) all the template pieces onto a sheet of Sulky Sticky Fabri-solvy.

Step 2

Roughly cut out each piece, peel off the paper backing, and stick the stabilizer to the front of a piece of felt.

Stitch through the felt and stabilizer together.

Here’s a color and stitch guide, if you want to make a purple Daisy like my sample.

Eye - backstitch with DMC #3371
Neck band - split stitch and French knots with DMC #597
Starbursts - backstitch with DMC #744
Asterisks - backstitch with DMC #3341
Drops at tail - lazy daisy with DMC #152
Wide belly stripes - backstitch with DMC #320
Narrow belly stripes - chain stitch with DMC #152
Wings - backstitch with DMC #320 and French knots with DMC #597
Comb - lazy daisy for the flower with DMC #152 and the leaves with DMC #320. Backstitch the stem with DMC #320.

Step 3

Cut out each piece carefully on the lines. Be sure not to cut into any of your stitching!

Soak the pieces in cool water to remove the stabilizer. I like to soak them for about an hour, then rinse off the mushy stabilizer under cool running water. Use a kitchen sprayer to get off any stubborn bits. Let them dry flat on a towel. Don’t wring them out - just lay them on a towel dripping wet. They’ll dry overnight.

I’ve got more info on using The Magical Embroidery Stuff here.

From here on all the sewing is whipstitch around the edges of the felt. I used two strands of floss for all whipstitching. DMC #326 matches the strawberry dream felt I used for the comb, and DMC #161 matches the purple sage I used for the body.

Step 4

Put comb pieces together, right sides facing out, and stitch all the way around the edge. You’ll end up with three comb pieces.

Step 5

Repeat Step 3 for the wings, pairing one embroidered wing with one blank wing.

The blank sides of the wings will go up against the bird’s body where you can’t see them.

Step 6

Place the two body pieces right sides facing out, with the comb pieces sandwiched between the layers. Stitch the body pieces together along the top edge of the body. Stop when you get to the tip of the tail, but don’t tie off your thread.

Watch this video to see how to stitch layers together with appendages (like the comb) sandwiched between them.

Step 7

When you get to the tip of the tail, slip the belly piece into place. The narrow end is the tail, and the wider end is the breast.

Stitch one body piece to one side of the belly piece. When you get to the front, stop stitching, but don’t tie off your thread.

Step 8

Go back to stitching the two body pieces together, this time stitching up the front of the face.

partially sewn softie made with a free felt birds pattern from Shiny Happy World

Slip the beak in between the two layers, right up at the top of the face, and stitch through it as you go.

Tie off your thread when you get to the top of the face.

Step 9

Flip the bird over.

Start a new piece of thread and stitch the free side of the body to the free side of the belly, starting at the front tip of the belly.

Stitch for a few inches, then tie off your thread.

Step 10

With a new piece of thread, stitch the rest of the body closed from the tail to the other side of the stuffing opening you started in Step 9.

Stuff the body neatly. You can add plastic pellets if you like, for weight, but this shape doesn’t need it for balance.

Step 11

Sew up the rest of the stuffing opening.

partially made Daisy - free felt bird pattern - waiting for her wings

Now she’s just waiting for wings!

Thread a long needle and knot the end. Start sewing underneath one wing, near the front. Sew through the body and out the other side, through the opposing wing. Take a small stitch back into the wing, through the body and out through the first wing. Stitch back and forth like this a few times to secure the wings. Don’t pull the thread too tight or you’ll distort the shape of her body. Knot your thread underneath one wing and bury the tail.

Daisy - a free felt bird pattern from Shiny Happy World

Done!

Isn’t she a beauty? I think this design would also be very pretty stitched up with a single color thread on a single color felt. White thread on this purple sage would be lovely! You’ll just have to make another. :)

Update – I decided to stitch up a new version of Daisy with different colors. Look how pretty she is in this cream felt! (It’s actually called straw.)

Daisy - a pretty (and free!) felt bird pattern from Shiny Happy World

Since she’s all hand-sewn, this free felt bird pattern is a great portable summer project. Take Daisy to the beach, to the pool, camping, on long car trips – you get the idea. 🙂

Happy stitching!

Play with some felt! Try the Oddballs – a fun pattern for silly monsters.

How to make a hacky sack

May 27, 2013

Now that summer’s rolling around, I bet you’re looking for excuses to get you (and your kids) outside! How about making a hacky sack? (Don’t know what playing hacky sack looks like? It’s worth having a look on YouTube!)

If you can single crochet, you can make a hacky sack! I’ll show you how!

Hacky Sack Materials

To make 1 hacky sack, you’ll need:

30 yards of dk-weight, cotton yarn
a size G (4.0mm) crochet hook
a fist-full of poly-pellets
a nylon knee-high sock

Crochet Hacky Sack Pattern

Rusty on your crochet? Check out my tutorials for how to single crochet, increase and decrease.

Start with a sloppy slip knot.

Ch 2.

Round 1: Sc 6 times in 2nd ch from hook. (6)
Round 2: Sc twice in each st. (12)
Round 3: *Sc twice in next st, sc in next st. Repeat from * 5 times. (18)
Round 4: *Sc twice in next st, sc in next 2 sts. Repeat from * 5 times. (24)
Round 5: *Sc twice in next st, sc in next 3 sts. Repeat from * 5 times. (30)
Round 6: *Sc twice in next st, sc in next 4 sts. Repeat from * 5 times. (36)
Rounds 7-12 Sc in each st. (36, 6 rounds)
Round 13: *Sc2tog, sc in next 4 sts. Repeat from * 5 times. (30)

Remove hook…

Place a handful of poly-beads in the nylon sock and sew it up. Your goal is to create a ball that will fill your hacky sack about 90% full:

Place your stuffed stocking inside your crochet.

Continue crocheting…

Round 14: *Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts. Repeat from * 5 times. (24)
Round 15: *Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts. Repeat from * 5 times. (18)
Round 16: *Sc2tog, sc in next st. Repeat from * 5 times. (12)
Round 17: *Sc2tog. Repeat from * 5 times. (6)
Round 18: Use the drawstring method to fasten off, and weave in the end!

Variations

Want to use a thicker yarn, like Lily’s Sugar & Cream? Simply skip rounds 6 & 13 (working fewer increase rounds), and use a size H (5.0mm) hook.

For more fun, add stripes of color! There’s a video here showing how to change colors with single crochet.

Happy stitching!

Materials You’ll Need

Instructions

How do you pick just one monster?

You can crochet your own Mike!

Add the details…

More accessory ideas

Are you going to get crocheting?

Helpful Links

Tweet

Blossom

My Heart Is Full. . .

Jackie

Hacky Sack Materials

Crochet Hacky Sack Pattern

Variations

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