I think they’d be great made up in black fabric and filled with black licorice for a little sack of “coal” to add to a stocking. 🙂
Happy stitching!
Best,
Wendi
What do you get when you combine Joel’s Free Holiday Gift Tag printable with my Free Goody Bag pattern?
This! A cute, reusable Christmas gift bag!
The Joel, of course, is Joel Henriques, the amazing dad who blogs at Made by Joel and author of Made to Play – a book showing you how to make tons of great, creative handmade toys.
Want to make a Christmas gift bag yourself? It’s easy!
Get Joel’s free printable gift tags here.
Get the free Goody Bag pattern here.
Transfer the images from the gift tags to the fabric you’re going to use for the bags and stitch them up. I used a simple backstitch – easy peasy. There’s a video here showing how to backstitch.
Now you have bunches of fun reusable Christmas bags!
Have a great day everyone!
Handmade Christmas decorations are so much fun!
I’ve got a free Stockings pattern and a free Ornaments pattern.
They’re fun on their own, but look what you can do when you mix them together!
We’ll start simple. Sew some rickrack onto the ogee and sew the ogee to the stocking. If you want to get fancy you can run a line of stitching from the top point to make it look like it’s hanging. This stocking will take maybe 20 minutes to make and it’s very easy for a beginner.
Here’s another super simple one – and one of my favorites. Stitch the little ornament-sized stocking to the regular sized stocking but leave the top unstitched. Now you have a stocking with a stocking-shaped pocket on it, perfect for holding a little Pez dispenser or a couple of lollipops or a small toy. Cute!
You don’t have to limit yourself to just one felt applique. For this stocking I cut out three tree triangles from the ornament patterns, stitched them to the stocking with a little swaggy zigzag action, then added random buttons. A forest of decorated trees!
You can fit exactly five of the large ornament circles in a stack up the side of the stocking. Lay them in place, stitch one row of stitching up the middle, and you’re done.
Here’s a variation with a more well-defined stripe. Instead of simply stitching up the middle of the dots, I laid a strip of satin ribbon down the center and then stitched over it. Easy peasy!
Forget about felt applique! For this one I didn’t sew down the big dots – I just used one as a pattern. I traced around it (randomly scattered over the stocking) and embroidered the circles with split stitch in white thread. Doesn’t it look minty fresh?
And then there’s this beauty! The big ornament circles make great eyeballs, no? The black strip for the mouth is a bit of satin ribbon, and the teeth are simply felt triangles tucked behind the ribbon before stitching.
And now – my favorite. I used the big circles from the ornament pattern – and Ed Emberley’s Picture Pie: A Cut and Paste Drawing Book. Those three birds are straight out of the book – and it’s filled with other cool pictures too, all made from circles.
I’d love to see what variations you all come up with! Get the free ornaments pattern here and the free stocking pattern here. And then please post your finished projects to the Shiny Happy People group so everyone can admire them. 🙂
Happy stitching!
Best,
Wendi
Yesterday I gave you a pattern for a good, basic holiday stocking. Today it’s felt ornaments. (Psst! Visit this post to see how to combine my stocking pattern and this ornament pattern for extra fun!)
But now. . . ornaments. The pattern (click here to download) includes some really basic shapes – a tree, a stocking, an ogee, and two circles. The fun comes with what you do with these basics.
Add rickrack. (Boy – do I love rickrack or what?)
Add buttons!
Add fancy vintage trim!
Layer them together with a bit of really simple embroidery!
Don’t feel like you’re tied to traditional colors. I love these yellow and orange ones! (Especially nice too for folks who celebrate solstice.)
Download the free pattern. Gather up your tiny scraps of trim, your odd beads and buttons, your little bits of yarn – and have fun! These shapes are really simple and fun for kids to play with too. Put on some Christmas carols, serve up some cookies, and let them sew the rickrack on with the machine (nice easy straight lines). They – and you – will have a blast. I promise.
Read this post for the best part – combining the stockings and these ornaments in really inventive ways. 🙂
Happy sewing!
Best,
Wendi
Planning to make any holiday stockings this year? Here’s an easy peasy pattern – and it’s free! Click here to download.
The pattern is for a basic stocking made from felt and takes less than an hour to make. But (of course) you’ll want to fancy it up a bit. 🙂 The one on the pattern cover just has a bunch of inexpensive pearly buttons stitched on it – with the thread tails visible.
See?
Or use just a handful of buttons in a vertical stripe.
Beads are always nice – and beaded trim is super easy. You’ll still finish this one in under an hour.
This one has a strip of feather boa across the top. Ooh la la!
How about some rickrack? A couple of bands across the top are nice. . .
But vertical stripes are good too.
For this one I cut some dots out of felt (traced around a quarter for the size) and then laid them out and embroidered lines between them.
And here’s one with fancier applique (but still easy). You could do the same thing, using one of my appliqued animals quilt block patterns. How about embroidering on a stocking? One of the puppies or kitties would be really cute! So would one of the Rainbow Girls! Or one of the birds from the Bird Sampler! And did you know you can turn any embroidery pattern into an applique pattern?
The finished stocking is just a smidge over 17″ tall – a good basic size.
So there you have it – a bunch of swell stockings! Download the pattern and make one this year.
Get a free felt ornament pattern here.
See some fun ways to use the ornament and stockings together here.
Happy sewing!
Best,
Wendi
There are a lot of tutorials out there for fabric bookmarks, but I’m very. . . picky. . . about my bookmarks. I’m a book collector, you see. My husband is a writer. We met when we worked together at an independent bookstore. I spent twenty years selling children’s books. Almost all of the art in our house is by children’s book illustrators. We are book people.
I like a bookmark that’s not so tall that it hangs way out of the top of a standard paperback. And I definitely want a bookmark to be THIN. Nothing that will damage the spine please! (Lots of fabric bookmarks are way too thick.)
So here’s a quick and easy tutorial showing you how to make my kind of bookmark.
You’ll need two pieces of fabric – one for the front and one for the back of your bookmark. I, of course, am partial to a bit of embroidery on the front, but you could just use any amazing fabric that you love.
If you’re going to have embroidery, do it now before you assemble the bookmark.
Grab a bookmark you like the dimension of (this one is 1 5/8 x 7) and some super-strong, paper-backed fusible adhesive. I use Heat and Bond Ultra Hold. Do NOT try to sew through that stuff! It will gum up your needle like crazy. I keep mine separate from all my other fusibles – just in case.
Cut out a piece of adhesive about 1/2 inch bigger than your bookmark all the way around. It doesn’t have to be neat.
The bookmark in the photo is just a guide for the dimensions. You’re not going to glue it inside or anything.
Lay it adhesive-side down over the back of your embroidered piece. (Never iron the front of your embroidery! There’s more info here about how to iron your embroidery without smooshing the stitches.) Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to fuse it in place.
Let it cool. Peel off the paper and lay your bookmark backing right side up over it. Fuse in place. Now the bookmark front and back will be glued together.
Flip it over so you can see the front. Trim to the size you want it. This is super easy with a rotary cutter and a ruler, but you can do it with scissors too.
You’re done! The adhesive will add quite a bit of stiffness to the fabric bookmark. You could make it even stiffer by using two layers of adhesive with a sturdy interfacing between them, but I’m ok with some bend to my bookmark. And the adhesive does a really great job of keeping the edges from fraying – so you can skip the time (and bulk) of adding a hem.
I think including a handmade bookmark with a book makes it a really nice gift. And it takes no time at all! The lady took me about an hour to stitch (it would have been faster if I hadn’t added all the satin stitching) and making the bookmark takes all of five minutes.
Looking for the pattern for that lady? It’s in my book How to Embroider Almost Everything.
Happy stitching!
Hey everyone! I’ve got a guest post over at Made by Joel – one of my very favorite blogs!
For those of you who don’t know about Joel – he’s an awesome Dad who make The Most Amazing Toys for his kids. Simple things out of everyday materials that have LOADS of play value. Scroll through his archives and order his book, Made to Play!. It looks fabulous!
Anyway – Joel does these terrific coloring pages – really great lines drawings that just beg to be embroidered. So I stitched one up and wrote up a post on how to do it.
There’s a lot of info you’ve already seen on my site about how to transfer the pattern and what some of the basic stitches are. But I also include some information about my thought processes as I made the design decisions about what stitches to use where, where to add color, and what color thread to use. I think it would be useful to anyone who wants to learn more about making their own embroidery design decisions.
Best,
Wendi
Here it is – the simplest skirt you can possibly make and the best project I know for beginning sewists who want to make clothing.
Size this one up to fit adults – or down to fit dolls and stuffed animals. It’s all good.
Very, very, very easy.
Here’s how to make it.
Measure around your waist and the desired length of the skirt.
waist _______________ length ______________
For a skirt with “average” fullness, cut your rectangle twice your waist measurement, plus 1 inch for seam allowance. This does not need to be an exact measurement.
My daughter’s waist is 24 inches. My target for the total length of my fabric rectangle was 49 inches, but the fabric was 44 inches wide. Did I piece in an additional 5 inches? No way. I just used the existing width of the fabric.
Anything from 1 1/2 – 2 1/2 times the waist measurement will look good and have some fullness, but you can go even smaller for a more fitted look, and even larger with a very thin fabric. Play around with it!
What width elastic will you be using?
You’ll need to add enough to your total cut length to make an elastic casing. Add the width of the elastic + 5/8 inch. That’s enough to turn it under 3/8 inch, press, then turn it under the width of the elastic + 1/4 inch.
You can see a video showing how to use elastic in a casing here.
Will you be adding a hem?
I usually add 1 inch hem allowance – enough to turn it under 1/2 inch, press, then another 1/2 inch, press, and stitch. Some people like wider hems. In this sample I didn’t hem at all – just bound the lower edge with bias tape. It’s up to you!
Cut your fabric rectangle.
Fold your rectangle in half, right sides together, and stitch the short edge with 1/2 inch seam allowance.
Finish the seam allowance. This was kind of a ravelly fabric, so I zigzagged the seam. You can see how to do that and another easy seam finish option in this video.
If you’re going to use bias tape to finish the seam, prepare it now. I found a packet of very old single fold bias tape that I wanted to use. Since it was single fold, I needed to fold it in half one more time and press it.
If you want to make your own and don’t know how – watch this video. For this project you can cut your strips on the straight grain.
Attach the bias tape by folding it around the raw edge of the skirt fabric and stitching it in place.
Here’s what your finished hem will look like.
If you want to do a regular folded hem instead, you can see how in this video.
Fold the top edge under 3/8 inch. Press. Fold again the width of the elastic plus 1/4 inch. Press. (I used 1 inch elastic on this skirt.)
Stitch the casing as close to that folded edge as possible, leaving about 3 inches open for inserting the elastic. Thread in the elastic, pin the ends together and TRY IT ON.
If you want to see me do this step on this very skirt, watch this video.
Once you know the fit is good, securely sew the ends of your elastic together. I sew a box around the edges of the overlapped bits, then sew an X across the box.
I’m showing you an example from another project because if I sewed this one in a thread dark enough to see, it would also show through the very thin white fabric of the skirt, and that would’t be pretty.
You can see all of this in the same video I mentioned in Step 6.
Let the elastic pop back into the casing, fold the casing back in place, and stitch that opening closed. Throw on the skirt and go play on a tire swing.
It really is that easy!
You can size this to fit anyone – though the shape isn’t terribly flattering on most adult women. Those of us with hips, anyway. 🙂
This is a great project for kids to make for themselves and also for their dolls and stuffed animals – easy to sew, easy on and off, and really inexpensive.
Want to see what some kids have made with this basic pattern?
This skirt got some fancy beading.
And I love the tutu on this Ugly Doll – made with tulle and no hem needed.
And, of course, the gap-toothed kid holding it! 🙂
These were all from a Summer Camp I taught a couple of years ago.
Best,
Wendi
Aprons.
This is about the easiest apron you can possibly sew. A rectangle of fabric, gathered at the top, and edged with double-fold tape that also serves as a tie.
Easy peasy!
Â
Follow this pattern to whip one up in an afternoon, and you’ll be an expert – ready for some really fun variations – patchwork aprons, ruffled aprons, and frilly, fancy, useless aprons.
But first – an easy apron.
Cut the following pieces. . .
For the main apron piece, measure all the way around the waist, and measure from the waist down to the desired length (usually anywhere from mid-thigh to the knee, depending on the look you prefer).
Cut a rectangle of fabric the width of the total waist measurement, and the height of the desired length plus 1 inch.
For the pocket, cut two squares of fabric, both 6 inches square. This will make one pocket. If you want to make two pockets, cut four squares.
For the wasitband/tie, cut strips (on the straight grain) 3 inches wide. You’ll need to cut multiple strips and join them together to get the desired length.
Place two pocket squares right sides together.
Using 1/4 inch seam allowance, stitch almost all the way around the edge, leaving a two-inch hole to turn it right side out. (If you’re new to sewing, this video shows how to sew straight lines and turn corners.)
Don’t forget to backstitch at the beginning and end of your stitching.
Clip the corners close to, but not into the stitching.
Turn the pocket right side out. Tuck in the raw edges at the opening you used for turning and press all the edges flat.
Stitch along the top edge of the pocket, as close to the edge as possible.
Repeat for a second pocket, if you choose.
Position the pocket so that the top left corner is 5 inches down from the top edge of the apron piece, and 5 inches in from the left edge of the apron piece.
Stitch the pocket in place, very close to the edge of the pocket. Stitch down one side, across the bottom (closing up the opening you used for turning), and up the other side.
It’s VERY important to remember to backstitch at the beginning and end of your stitching. Otherwise your pocket will eventually come loose and fall off and you’ll be sad.
Hem each side of the main apron piece.
Turn the edge under 1/2 inch. Press. Turn under another half inch. Press. Stitch down very close to the folded edge of the fabric.
Repeat with the second side.
Repeat for the bottom edge of the apron.
Time to prep the waistband/tie. Essentially – we’re going to make some wide double-fold tape. There’s a video here showing how.
Use a 1 1/2″ bias tape tool to turn your 3″ strip into double-fold tape. If you don’t have the right tool, just do it by hand.
Fold the strip in half the long way. Press.
Fold each long edge into the center. Press.
Refold the center. Press.
The tool is handy, but doing it the old-fashioned way doesn’t take long. 🙂
Open up the center fold and turn the short end under 1/4 inch. Refold and press. Now you’ll have a neat end to your tie.
Gather up the top edge of the apron (using either a gathering foot or the basting-stitch method from this video) until it’s the desired width, usually a little more than half of the total waist measurement.
This isn’t rocket science, so don’t tear out your hair (or your stitches) if you end up a little longer or shorter than you wanted. A little bit of variation won’t look bad.
Fold your double-fold tape over the raw, gathered edge of the top of your apron.
If you pin the center of your tie to the center of your apron piece and work your way out from that center point, it’s very easy to get everything even with no measuring.
Pin the double-fold tape in place.
Stitch the folded edges together, the whole length of the waistband/tie.
Start at one end. Stitch the short end together. Turn the corner and stitch all the way down the length of the tie, enclosing the gathered edge of the apron top in the fold. Sew slowly, making sure that you are catching the back fold of the tape in your stitching. Turn the corner and stitch the other short edge.
Finished!
You’re done! Tie on your new apron and get ready to make another. Now that you have the basics down you’re ready to try all kinds of fabulous variations!
Brag a little!
Don’t forget to take a picture of your finished apron! Post it to the Shiny Happy People group so everyone can see and be inspired by your work. Sharing is fun!
Happy stitching!
Best,
Wendi
Let’s learn to make an easy zippered bag!
I cut up a lot of old clothes to reuse the fabric.
I can’t stand to throw anything away, and I end up turning a lot of the zippers into handy-dandy zippered bags like this one.
Make them in grown-up fabrics to hold make-up, money, membership cards, etc.
Make them in kid-friendly fabrics to hold candy, money, colored pencils and a little notebook, tiny toys, rocks, etc.
(Why does everything I make end up holding rocks?)
Anyway. . . make it in a plain fabric and fancy it up with some applique or embroidery. I chose three monsters from the Monster Mash embroidery pattern to stitch on this one. Or make it in a stunning fabric that sings on its own.
Make one zippered bag according to the pattern and you’ll have the skills to make as many as you want – in any size and shape you need. And as if that wasn’t enough – it’s a great project for launching into the brave new world of ZIPPERS!
If you’ve been nervous about trying zippers this is a great first project using them.
And did I mention it’s lined?
Step 1
Cut two rectangles – each 8″ x 4 1/2″ for the outside of the bag.
Cut two more identical rectangles from your lining fabric.
If you want to add embroidery, applique or some other decoration to the front of the pouch, now is the time to do it. I chose three monsters from the Monster Mash embroidery pattern and stitched them to the front rectangle.
Step 2
Lay the rectangle that will be the front of the pouch right side up. Lay your zipper right side down on top of it.
Pin along the top edge.
Step 3
Now lay one of the lining pieces face down over the front piece, with the zipper sandwiched between the two layers. Pin so that all three edges are lined up at the top.
After you get the hang of this you can combine steps 2 and 3, but it’s helpful for beginners to do them as two separate steps.
Step 4
Put your zipper foot into your machine and sew the three layers together as close to the teeth of the zipper as your zipper foot will allow.
Watch this video first if you’ve never worked with zippers before.
Flip the pieces right side out so it looks like the photo.
Step 5
Repeat for the other side of the zipper.
Lay the outer rectangle face up. Lay the zipper (with the other outer and lining pieces sewn to it) face down. Lay the lining piece face down.
Pin all along the top edge and sew.
Step 6
Now when you flip everything right side out it will look like this.
If you turn it over you should see the right sides of both lining pieces.
Press the seams on either side of the zipper flat.
Step 7
Now unzip the zipper about halfway. If you skip this step you will be VERY unhappy – so please do it now.
Flip things around so that the right sides of the outer fabric are facing each other, and the right sides of the lining pieces are facing each other.
Step 8
Pin all the way around the outside edge. You’ll want to leave a 3 inch opening in the lining seam so you can turn everything right side out.
Pay special attention to which way your seam allowance is facing. You want to flip it toward the main fabric.
This will make the teeth of the zipper inside tend to point toward the lining fabric and that is very important. Check those teeth before you sew. Are they pointing toward the lining? Good!
Step 9
Using 1/2 inch seam allowance, stitch all the way around the edge, leaving a 3 inch opening in the lining seam.
Remember to backstitch at the beginning and end of all your stitching.
Clip your corners close to, but not into, your stitching.
Step 10
Ready for some magic? Turn the whole thing right side out through the opening you left in the lining. (See why you had to unzip that zipper?)
Ta daa!
Use a stick or other tool to poke your corners out nice and smooth. Press everything flat. If you added embroidery be sure to press around it, otherwise you will squish it and then you will be sad.
Step 11
Sew up the opening you used for turning. I used the ladder stitch but beginners might opt for whipstitch instead. (Those links go to videos teaching how to do both stitches.)
Tuck the lining inside the zippered bag.
Finished!
Now that you’ve made one you can make as many as you want, in any sizes you want. Just remember to cut your fabric rectangles to match the length of the entire zipper tape – not just the toothed part. Using a 1/2 inch seam allowance will usually butt your side seams right up to the top and bottom of the zipper teeth, but double-check to make sure.
Happy stitching!
