Want to learn the basics of hand embroidery with an easy online workshop – totally free?
Sign up for Embroidery 101 here. You’ll learn how to get started, the tools and supplies you’ll need, the four most basic stitches, how to transfer your pattern and how to display your work.
If you already know the basics – sign up for Embroidery 201. It’s also free! You’ll learn how to stitch on specialty fabrics like felt and stretchy T-shirts. Plus you’ll learn lots and lots and LOTS more stitches – all my favorites!
Here’s a free cat embroidery pattern for you to play with!
My daughter has been drawing cat faces all over the place.
It’s her new favorite doodle.
She drew one recently in chalk on a slate stone in our yard and I loved the effect – so that’s what I was going for with this simple line drawing.
The image is just under 6 inches square. It would be cute on a tote bag or T-shirt – or a towel. It also fits perfectly into a 7″ hoop.
This is a great pattern for beginners. You only need one stitch and there’s nothing too fussy or detailed about it.
I stitched it in a pale (chalky) color on a dark background and with a slightly thicker thread than I usually use.
This mini tote bag measures 6 inches wide x 7 inches tall x 2 inches deep.
It’s the perfect size for packing your lunch, carrying a few books, or toting some toys.
And it’s easy to make!
You can decorate your bag any way you like. For that adorable bunny bag (perfect for Easter egg hunting) I used one of the blocks from this Woodland Critters quilt pattern, with the size reduced.
If you’re looking for free bunnies, I’ve got those too. Click here for the free Mix & Match Bunny applique pattern with several super cute bunny appliques. For all of these you’ll need to print the pattern pages at 60% to get the right size for the bag.
If you’re using a different pattern or your own design (or maybe a child’s drawing for an extra special bag) just make sure that the image is no more than 5 inches wide and 6 inches tall.
On the sample bag I used for the step-by-step photos below, I embroidered one of my favorite birds from this Bird Sampler pattern onto a solid fabric before sewing it up in Step 3. You’ll see the pretty bird in the final step. 🙂
You could also use a fabulous print that needs no extra fancification.
Choose a fun coordinating color for the lining and you’re ready to sew!
It’s a totally versatile tote bag pattern that you can use in so many different ways. Have fun with it!
What You’ll Need
one fat quarter of the main fabric
one fat quarter (or less) for the lining fabric
any additional materials you want for optional embellishing
Step 1
We’ll start with the handles. Cut two strips of the main fabric, each 5 x 12 inches. Fold one of the fabric strips in half the long way, right sides facing out. Press. Open the strip back up and fold each long edge in toward the center fold. Press.
Fold in half again along the center fold so that you have one long strip, four layers of fabric thick. This makes a nice, sturdy strap. Press.
Topstitch along both long edges, about 1/8 inch from the edge.
Repeat for the second handle.
Step 3
Now for the bag. Cut two 9 inch squares from the main fabric, and two from the lining fabric. If you’re going to embroider your bag (or embellish it in any other way) do this now before you sew the pieces together.
Pin the two main fabric squares right sides together. Using 1/4 inch seam allowance, stitch around both sides and the bottom of the bag.
Open out one bottom corner of the bag so that the side seam and center bottom seam line up, and the corner of the bag makes a point. Measure up one inch from the tip of the stitching (NOT the tip of the fabric triangle) and stitch a line perpendicular to the side seam.
Turn the main bag right side out. Leave the lining inside out.
Pin the edge of one strap to the top edge of the bag, 1 1/2 inches in from the side seam.
Repeat for the other end of the strap.
Repeat with the second strap on the other side of the bag.
Step 6
Put the main bag (right side out) inside the lining (wrong side out), with the straps sandwiched between the two layers.
The bag and lining should be right sides together.
Line up the side seams and pin the layers together around the top edge of the bag.
Step 7
Using 1/4 inch seam allowance, stitch almost all the way around the top edge of the bag. Leave the space between the two ends of one handle unstitched, so you can pull the bag through the opening.
The easiest way to do this is to start sewing right at the inside edge of one handle. Sew through that handle, around the side seam, through both handles on the other side, around the second side seam, and through the last handle. Stop as soon as you sew over the last handle.
Be sure to backstitch at the beginning and end of your stitching. This is a pretty small opening and there will be some pressure on the edges as you pull the bag through.
Step 8
Reach into the opening and pull the main bag through. Pull through the handles, then pull the lining right side out and tuck it into the bag.
Press around the top edge, being especially careful to press the open edges evenly.
Step 9
Topstitch around the bag, about 1/8 inch from the top edge.
Be sure that the folded edges of the opening you used for turning are lined up and that you catch both layers in the topstitching to hold them together. No hand stitching needed. 🙂
Finished!
Here are several free patterns that work with my basic 10-inch applique squares – no resizing needed!
Here are several free patterns that work with just some simple resizing. This post about making coasters has info about resizing an applique pattern that can be applied to any of these projects.
A couple of years ago I started building up a stash of reusable fabric gift bags – and working down my stash of gift wrap.
This little bag is one of my favorite sizes – roughly 4 inches wide x 7 inches tall x 2 inches deep.
It’s perfect for small gifts – and it goes together quickly and easily enough to make up a big batch and use them as party favor bags.
This batch is kind of girly looking, but a simple change of fabric will completely change the look. Try making some up in a favorite team’s colors!
Once you get the hang of making them, it’s really easy to adjust the pattern to be any size you want.
Have fun with them!
What you’ll need
two 7 x 9 inch rectangles for the bag
two 1 1/2 x 12 inch strips for the ties (or use 1/2 inch ribbon)
sewing machine, thread, etc.
less than an hour
Difficulty
Very easy – this is all straight line sewing. It’s a great first sewing project.
Step 1
We’ll start with the ties. Fold one of the fabric strips in half the long way, right sides together. Using 1/4 inch seam allowance, sew along one short side and down the long open side, leaving the other short end open.
Remember to backstitch at the beginning and end of your stitching.
Using 1/4 inch seam allowance, sew together both sides and the bottom of the bag, catching the ties in the stitching where they’re pinned. Don’t forget the backstitch at the beginning and end of your stitching.
Step 7
Now we’re going to box in the corners of your bag so it has some depth.
Flatten and fold one corner of your bag so that the side seam is lined up with the bottom seam. It should come to a point at the bottom.
Measure up one inch from the tip of the stitching line (not the point of the fabric) and mark a line perpendicular to the stitching line. Stitch on that line from edge to edge, backstitching when you start and stop.
Repeat for the other corner.
Step 8
Turn the bag right side out. Finish the top edge however you like. I like to just trim the edge with pinking shears, but you could hem it if you prefer.
This is a great size for small gifts or party favors, but you can easily make the bag bigger for larger gifts. Have fun with it!
I was inspired by Chez Beeper Bebe’sremake of the classic paratrooper dimestore toy (You haven’t seen it? Well go check it out, for goodness’s sake! It’s fabulous!) and I decided to remake those carrot-shaped cellophane bags you find filled with candy at Easter.
My version is made from fabric – thus hiding what kind of candy is inside. Is it M&Ms? Is it jellybeans? Oooh – the suspense! Plus it’s reusable and feels so much nicer than the plastic bags. And – it’s oh so easy.
Press your fabric and cut out all your pieces as shown on the pattern page. You should have one orange wedge, one green piece, and two strips for ties.
Step 2
Pin the carrot to the green, right sides together. You’ll be pinning a convex curve to a concave curve, so the green part will be floppy at the bottom. Sew using 1/4 inch seam allowance.
Step 3
Open the carrot up and press the seam allowance toward the green.
Step 4
Fold one strip in half the long way and stitch along the long edge and one short edge. Turn the tube right side out and press flat. Repeat with the second strip.
Step 5
Pin both strips to the green, 1 inch from the seam between orange and green, with the raw edges of the strips lined up with the raw edges of the green.
Fold the carrot wedge in half the long way, right sides together, with the strips sandwiched between the layers.
Stitch up the long seam using 1/4 inch seam allowance.
Step 6
Trim away any excess seam allowance from the tip of the carrot and turn it right side out. Press the seam flat. Trim the raw edge of the green with pinking shears, fill the carrot with candy, and tie it closed.
Want to play with a free embroidery pattern? Here’s one that’s great for beginners.
It’s super easy – just a bunch of backstitching and one lone French knot – which you can replace with a tiny straight stitch.
I colored the image in with colored pencils before stitching, but you could certainly fill with the fancy stitch of your choice.
If I were doing this again I would probably do all the outlining in DMC #3371 – I love that whimsical cartoony look. But I already showed you all an example of that here and I wanted to let you see the different look you get by outlining with matching thread.
Remember – one of the great things about embroidery is that you get the image – but you can make it look however you like with your choice of color and stitches.
These stuffed toy snakes are one of my most popular free patterns! They’re lots of fun for all ages to make.
Years ago I made a book weight – a simple tube of fabric filled with heavy metal pellets.
It was designed to hold a book open, but my daughter immediately saw it as a toy.
Of course.
She played with it all the time so I finally made a toy snake just for her – bright and colorful, with button eyes and a forked tongue, and filled with plastic pellets instead of expensive metal shot.
She still has that original snake. And she still plays with him all the time. Her response when I asked her about him was, “Well, you never know when you’re going to need a snake.”
How true.
Jo helped me make some modifications to the original design. The seams are on the inside now “to make him more smooth and snakelike.” The tongue is made of ribbon so it’s less likely to tear away. I asked her about rounding the head and tail to make him (somewhat) more realistic and got a resounding thumbs down. Okay then. Square-headed toy snake it is.
And so I bring you the new and improved – and FREE – Snake Charmers. These toy snakes are quick and easy to stitch up, small enough to fit in a pocket, and have a pleasing drapability (if you don’t fill them too full). They’re a good size to interact with action figures and all kinds of dolls. They’re surprisingly versatile little guys who make their way into all kinds of situations. I hope you enjoy them!
Do make more than one. When I told Jo she could have all the samples I made her response was, “Cool! Now I can have an invading horde attack my American Girl dolls.”
Cool indeed. 🙂
The links in the pattern all go to video tutorials that show that skill in more detail.
Toy Snake Pattern
Materials needed for each snake. . .
scraps of fabric - I use different prints for the top and the belly
two small buttons (1/4 - 3/8 inch)
scrap of red ribbon (1/4 or 3/8 inch wide)
plastic pellets for stuffing (I like Fairfield brand Poly Pellets)
Cut the ribbon 1 1/2 inches long and snip a fork into one end.
If the ribbon seems like it’s going to fray, use a bit of Fray Check or clear nail polish on the forked end.
Step 4
Pin the ribbon in place with the flat edge lined up with the cut edge of the fabric and centered between the eyes.
Step 5
Layer the belly piece of the snake face down over the top. Pin the layers together, sandwiching the ribbon tongue between them. Leave the tail open for filling.
Step 6
Leaving the tail end unstitched, sew around the other three sides of the snake. Use 1/4 inch seam allowance. Don’t forget to backstitch at the beginning and end of all your stitching.
Have fun making these easy stuffed toy snakes! And happy sewing!
Best, Wendi
Edit – Over on Flickr, Curlysue7795 commented on the fabrics I chose, and that reminded me that I meant to mention that in the post. For these snakes I chose fabrics that had wiggly stripes on them, and I centered the stripe so it ran down the backs of the snakes. You certainly don’t have to do this, but I think it’s a nice effect.
Keep your electronic gizmos from getting scratched up – and also keep them warm and cozy (and cute!) with a super-easy felt cozy.
In this free pattern I teach you how to measure and fit any device – so you can make cozies for your MP3 players, your cell phone, your tablet, your e-reader – even a laptop!
You can sew by hand or by machine. You can embellish with embroidery, or applique, or beadwork, or anything else you know how to do.
It’s a totally open-ended project, perfect for playing and experimenting. Have fun with it!
The measuring and construction of the cozy is super easy – just simple running stitches. You can make the embellishment as fancy as you like.
Measure Your Device
First we need to do a little math. All these gizmos are different sizes so you’ll have to customize the pattern for each device.
Width
Measure the width of your gizmo. You’ll need to account for the thickness of it too – so measure up one edge, across the surface, and down the other edge. I use a flexible tape measure so I can do this all in one step, but you can use a regular ruler and add the three measurements together.
To the width measurement you’ll need to add some seam allowance. I like 1/4 inch on each side, so add a total of 1/2 inch to your width. Write it down.
______________________ = cutting width
Length
Now measure the length of your device. It won’t need to wrap around the top, so this time measure up the bottom edge (to get the thickness) and then across the surface to the top edge. This will be your length measurement.
You won’t be sewing the top or bottom edge, so no need to add seam allowance to this measurement. But we do need it to cover the front AND the back of your device. So multiply your length measurement by 2. Write it down.
_____________________ = cutting length
Cut and Decorate
Cut a single rectangle of felt that is the cutting width x the cutting length.
Now – decorate it if you want to!
Remember – the front of the cozy will be the top half of the rectangle you cut. You can, of course, decorate both the front and the back. But if you want an image centered on the front, fold your felt rectangle in half and center your image on the top half.
See where I put the image on my rectangle?
If you want to embroider on your cozy, here’s how I did mine. . .
I like my embroidery to sink in around the edges and make the felt more three-dimensional, so I started by embroidering just the inside of the design on the small felt piece. For this design I stitched the French knots in her hair and on her dress, her eyes and her mouth. Nothing else – yet.
Step 3
After I finished the “inside stitching” I centered the scrap of felt on the top half of the rectangle of felt I cut in Step 5 above.
I attached the design to the cozy by embroidering the outline of the Rainbow Girl (the outline of her hair, her chin, the outline of her dress, and her legs and boots) through both layers of felt.
Going through both layers for the outline makes her hair, face and dress all look slightly puffy and rounded – and it also attaches the two layers together. If you want to do all the embroidery before you attach the design to the cozy – you can do that. Just use a glue stick to attach them together after you’re done stitching, or whipstitch all around the edge.
If you want to do all the stitching through both layers – that’s good too. It just gives you a subtly different look. Play around and experiment!
Step 4
Use a sharp pair of scissors to trim around the design, leaving a little extra around the edge.
One of these days I’ll get myself a pair of applique scissors (the bottom blade has a rounded tip so you can’t accidentally cut through the bottom fabric) so I can do this without having a nervous breakdown, but for now I just go very slowly and very carefully.
Sew It Up!
Fold the cozy in half, carefully lining up the edges. Pin it together on each side, 1/4 inch in from the edge.
Slide your gizmo in to make sure it fits. Fuss with the placement of the pins until you’re happy with the fit on your device. You want it snug – but not too tight. The device should still slide in and out easily.
Stitch up one side. I wanted big, chunky, visible stitches so I used fat embroidery thread and a running stitch by hand. Blanket stitch would look nice too. You could also use a sewing machine instead – with matching or contrasting thread.
Check the fit one more time before you sew up the other side. Make any necessary adjustments – and sew.
Trim away some of the seam allowance if you want to – but don’t get too close to the stitching or your seam won’t hold.
Way back in the early eighties we played a game called Chinese Jacks.
Everyone had a set of jacks – customized in your favorite colors, of course – and if we had five free minutes we plopped down on the floor wherever we were and played a few rounds.
Chinese Jacks was an American eighties version of a very old game called Five Stones (or Knucklebones, or Jackstones, or a kajillion other variations). You can find some “official” rules here, and I like this video for showing it in action.
Part of the fun of Chinese Jacks was making your own set of jacks, in your own favorite color combinations. Five Stones is also a game where you can (and should) make your own set. It’s easy and pretty fast and uses just scraps.
What you’ll need
5 scraps of fabric – each at least 2 1/4 x 4 inches
small amount of rice, plastic beads, or other small filler
sewing machine
thread
basic sewing tools
about an hour
Difficulty
Very easy – great for beginners of all ages.
Step 1
Iron your fabric so it’s nice and smooth. Cut 5 rectangles – each 2 1/4 x 4 inches.
Step 2
Choose one rectangle to start with. Turn ONE long edge under 1/4 inch.
Press to set the fold, then open it back up. You won’t be stitching this down yet, but the piece is so small that it will be almost impossible to measure and press this fold after you sew so we’re doing it now.
Step 3
Fold the rectangle in half (with right sides
together) so that it’s almost a square.
Using 1/4 inch seam allowance, stitch two of the open sides of the square. Remember to backstitch at the beginning and end of your stitching.
Clip the corner close to – but not into – your stitching.
Step 4
You should have a little pouch. Turn it right side out and turn under the fold that you pressed in place in step 2.
Step 5
Now here’s the trickiest part – and it’s really not tricky at all – just very clever. Refold the opening so that the seam is running up the center instead of along one of the sides. It should reshape the flat pouch into a teeny little pyramid.
Fill the bag with 2 teaspoons of filler. For this project I used little plastic pellets because I KNOW they’ll get played with (and forgotten) outside. Rice or lentils would be nice, but they will clump and mold if the game gets wet.
Two teaspoons will fill it loosely – and that’s exactly what you want. Tossing and grabbing is easier when the “stones” have some give to them.
Step 6
Now stitch up that nice folded edge using a whip stitch or ladder stitch. Use small stitches spaced pretty close together so the filling doesn’t come out through the spaces.
Step 7
Done! Now repeat all the steps with the rest of the rectangles. You should end up with 5 squishy little pyramids. You’re ready to play!
You can find the rules a lot of places online but I like this video. Actually seeing the play makes it easier to understand.
Stitch up this easy rice bag and pop it in the microwave whenever you need a little warmth. Heat it for one minute (or a little more) in the microwave. Use it as a foot warmer when you go to bed at night. Or lay it on your chest when you have a cold. Drape it around your neck if you’ve spent too long at the sewing machine. 🙂
Don’t save this project for next winter! In the summertime my daughter likes to keep hers in the freezer to pull out whenever she needs a quick cool-off. Drape the cold bag around your neck on a hot day for instant bliss.
Make one for yourself – and lots more for gifts.
Update! I posted instructions to turn this into a Vicks VapoRub scented rice bag here. Use that version to help soothe a cough and clear a stuffy nose. And be sure to download the free monster rice bag cover pattern too! The link is in the same post. 🙂
What you’ll need
2 squares of fabric – each 10 1/2″ x 10 1/2″
2 1/2 cups rice or other filler
scented mix-ins – optional
sewing machine
thread
basic sewing tools
an hour or less
Difficulty
Super easy! Just a few straight lines and all machine work! Plus the pattern has links to videos teaching you all the skills you’ll need.
Clip the corners close to - but not into - the stitching.
It should look like the photo.
Step 3
Turn the bag right side out. Turn the raw edge under 1/2 inch and press.
The entire top edge (all the way around) should be folded under so you have a clean edge.
Step 4
Using a piece of chalk or other erasable marking tool, mark lines every two inches along the length of your rice bag.
This will make channels that help keep the rice spread evenly throughout the bag so it doesn’t all shift into one corner.
Step 5
Stitch along the marked lines - right up to the open edge of the bag. Don’t forget to backstitch at the beginning and end of your stitching!
It should look like this.
Using a funnel, fill each channel with about 1/2 cup of rice. There should still be room to spare. Careful! If you fill your bag too full, it will be stiff and won’t mold to your body.
If you want your bag to be scented, now is the time to mix in some additions. I added a few cloves and some broken cinnamon stick pieces to each channel. You can add a few drops of essential oil to the rice before filling the bag. Lavender or rosemary is also a nice addition. Use your imagination!
There’s a tutorial here showing how to make your rice bag into a Vicks Vapo-rub scented rice bag – perfect for soothing a cough and stuffy head without the icky sticky feeling of the Vicks.
Step 7
Sew the opening closed. Sew as close to the folded edge as possible.
Don’t forget to backstitch at the beginning and end.
Finished!
Want to get extra fancy? You can sew up a fun monster cover for your rice bag.
It hangs in any doorway so there’s plenty of room “back stage.” And when you’re not using it it’s easy to just fold up and put away. Plus – it’s FREE!
What you’ll need
1 yard solid-colored fabric for the backdrop
1 1/3 yard patterned fabric for the bottom curtain
2 spring tension rods long enough to fit in the doorway you’ll be using
Thread
Sewing machine
Basic sewing tools
less than an hour
Difficulty
Crazy easy. Seriously.
There’s also a free template for two ships included! Just print, color, paste them to some cardboard, cut them out, add sticks for handles and you’re ready for the show!
