How to Make Fancy Schmancy Cloth Napkins

Photo of a young girl holding a cloth napkin to her mouth.

How to Make Fancy Schmancy Cloth napkins - a free tutorial.

Make some fancy schmancy cloth napkins!

It’s the perfect project is to practice straight-line sewing on the machine!

You get to practice sewing around the edge with a nice, straight, 1/4 inch seam allowance, and then you get to go around the edge again with a topstitch.

Easy peasy!

So here’s a free pattern for you.

What You’ll Need for Each Cloth Napkin

  • Two squares of fabric. I use 12-inch squares but you could go a little larger or smaller if you like. The two fabrics can match, can coordinate, or can be  completely random – it’s all up to you. I usually use a print and a solid that I think looks good with it.
  • Matching thread
  • Sewing machine
  • Iron
  • Pins

You read the part about this being good for practicing sewing straight lines, right? This is definitely for beginners.

If you want to get really fancy you can embroider on one of the squares of fabric before you sew them together. Maybe an initial? Or a flower? Or a small beetle?

There are a bunch of embroidery patterns here, and this book has over 500 motifs, including really unusual ones like chainsaws, lumberjacks, succulents, toys, and kitchen equipment.

Step 1

Iron your fabric so it’s nice and smooth.

Stack the two squares of fabric with their right sides together and their edges lined up. The napkin should be “inside-out.”

Pin the two layers together around the edges.

Step 2

Leave an opening of at least 3 inches so you can turn the napkin right-side-out after stitching.

I like to mark the beginning and end of my opening with double pins so I remember not to sew it closed.

Step 3

Using 1/4 inch seam allowance, stitch all around the edge of the napkin – except for the part you’re leaving open.

Remember to backstitch a few stitches at the beginning and end of your stitching.

The opening should look like this.

And the corners should look like this.

If you need help with your seam allowance or turning corners, watch this video.

Step 4

Trim away excess fabric at each corner. This will help make your corners nice and flat when you turn the napkin right-side-out.

Be careful not to cut through your stitches – your cut should be just a little bit out from the corner of your stitching.

Step 5

Turn your napkin right side out. Use a chopstick (or some other pointy, but not too pointy tool) to help pop the corners all the way out.

Smooth everything out and carefully press all the seams. Take your time and make the sides as square as possible.

Step 6

The unstitched edges of your opening should fold in pretty perfectly all by themselves, but give them some help if you need to. They should look like this before pressing. . .

And like this after pressing. . .

Step 7

Now you have two options. You can use ladder stitch to sew up the opening. It’s invisible, but some people don’t like hand stitching.

If you want to do the whole thing by machine, just stitch all the way around the edge, very close to the edge of the napkin. This is called topstitching and there’s a video here showing how to do it.

Every corner should be nice and square and this stitching will seal up the opening you used for turning. Easy peasy!

Trim your threads and press your napkin one more time. That last pressing will help the threads of your topstitching sink down into the fabric and look nice and finished.

Now – have a snack!

We have a big stack of colorful napkins in our house and everyone has their own favorites. This is a great way to use up random bits of favorite fabrics.

Happy stitching!

Free printable gift tags!

The holidays are fast approaching… and what better way to top off your handmade creations than with a cute gift tag? I’ve made four adorable gift tags for you to print that would go perfectly on your amigurumi, or anything else handmade!

To grab these gift tags, just right-click the image above and “save as”. Then, print the tags and fill in the information (like I did at left)… and spread the holiday love!

On the back, you can jot down some information about the yarn you used and care instructions. For example, on my stuffed animals, I usually write, made with 100% wool, spot clean with cold water (because I like using wool yarn for my amigurumi). Giving this information to the recipient will ensure that they’ll take proper care of your carefully-crafted creation!

Happy holidays!

American/British Conversion chart: cut out & save!

American British crochet terms conversion - printable chart

Do you need a handy dandy refernce for converting between American and British crochet terms and hook sizes?

I’ve got you covered.

As I am about to enter my 3rd year of spending 1/15th of my year in the Land Down Under, I am becoming increasingly aware of the differences between the US and Australia. Forget about vegemite vs. peanut butter… the real issue is sorting out your crochet patterns!

The worst part about it is that the two countries use the exact same terms – but for different stitches! Talk about confusing!

I made a handy-dandy guide that you can print out and carry along with you. You don’t even need to travel much to use it: chances are, you’ve run across a great pattern from another country, and you have to translate the terms. No longer a problem! You can even hide this chart in your pocket and impress your friends!

Right-click the image to save it to your computer for easy printing and handy reference.

Want more conversion charts? This post has an even more detailed printable chart. It doesn’t include American and British crochet terms, but it lists all the different yarn sizes, the various names they have in lots of different countries, and the recommended crochet hook size for each yarn weight.

Happy stitching!

Here are handy links to all the posts about working with crochet patterns. . .

Return to the main table of contents for Let’s Learn to Crochet Amigurumi.

Move on to the lessons for working the first round of your crochet pattern.

Happy stitching!

Stacey’s in Knitty!

I’m very excited to announce that my pattern for an intarsia slouchy beret made it into Knitty! I’ve been nearly bursting trying to keep the news quiet… but the Deep Fall version of Knitty was released today, so I can spread the news!

I really wanted to make a slouchy beret that was an easy introduction to intarsia- but that looked really complicated. Combining self-striping yarn and a really simple intarsia pattern, you can get a hat that looks like you’re doing a zillion color changes… a great pattern to try if it’s your first time doing intarsia. The pattern has two versions: a fingering weight (my favorite) and a worsted weight version (a perfect quick-knit).

Click here to view the pattern! Hope you enjoy!

Free Knitting Pattern: Easy Peasy Socks!

I just designed a pair of socks for my beginning sock knitting class… and have made the pattern a free download! These socks are designed with the first-time sock knitter in mind. Sock knitting can seem daunting, but it doesn’t have to be. All you need to be able to do is work in the round, decrease and pick up stitches, and you can make these socks!

free easy knitting sock pattern

 

 

 

 

Click here to download!

 

These are worsted weight socks, which means that they’ll be warm, and work up quickly. They may not be the socks that you want to wear every day, but I think that you’ll be a less discouraged sock knitter if you learn the basics on a project that you’ll finish quickly. Save your pretty self-striping sock-weight yarn for your next pair.

Warning: This pattern is annotated with lots of helpful hints & notes… it’s sorta like a transcript of what a sock class with me is like. This is probably very boring if you’ve knit socks before!

Notes on the pattern for those interested in teaching: I designed this pattern to teach first-timers to knit socks, so there are a number of simplifying design features:

  • Short cuff, so it’s quick to get started learning ‘sock-y’ things
  • No leg, same reason as above
  • No need to keep track of ‘needle 1 and needle 2’ like some sock patterns… because everyone always looses track!
  • Heel flap is worked in stockinette, no fancy pattern to remember
  • Only one round to remember for gusset decreases, so you don’t need to keep track of what round you’re on
  • Worsted weight goes fast!

As with all of my patterns, you’re welcome to sell anything you make with the pattern. Please do not sell or repost the pattern itself without permission. 🙂

This sock pattern makes use of the ‘ssk’ decrease. This is a decrease over two stitches, and is not achieved by ‘slip 1, slip 1, knit 1’. If you are unfamiliar with this decrease, please check out this video.

Need more help?

Need more sock help? I recommend the visual-oriented learners take Donna Drachunas’s Knit Sock Workshop on Craftsy. It’s a video course, so you’ll learn everything you need to know!

Happy stitching!

Best,
Stacey
Stacey from FreshStitches

Free Pattern: crocheted square washcloth!

stack of blue/green crochet washcloths

Who doesn’t love crocheted washcloths? This pattern is worked in the round, so you can make the washcloth as large as you’d like without too much advance planning!

crochet washclothsYou’ll need:

  • yarn Cotton works best, I’ve used a worsted weight yarn to make the washcloths pictured
  • a hook Use the hook size recommended on the yarn’s ball band. I use a size H for worsted weight yarn
  • a stitch marker (optional) (for marking the start of the round)

Of course, you can use any size yarn that you’d like, as long as you use a crochet hook to suit. For the washcloths pictured (which are about 8″ square), about 50-60 yards was used.

The Pattern

abbreviations
sc: single crochet
st(s): stitch(es)

pattern notes
If you’d like to get the ‘ridges’ that are shown in the sample washcloths, then crochet through the back loop only. For a ‘more traditional’ look, crochet through both loops. This decision is purely stylistic, and you’ll have a great washcloth either way.

The general pattern is that you’ll sc 3 times in each corner stitch. The row-by-row pattern is written out below. For this pattern, each round will finish a stitch or two short of what you may expect. It’s done this way so that the written pattern is less complicated. Just roll with it for a round or two, and you’ll quickly discover the general pattern… and can continue on your own!

To start, ch 2
Round 1: Sc 8 times in 2nd chain from hook (8)
Round 2: * Sc 1, sc 3 in next st. Repeat from * 3 times. (16)
Round 3: Sc in next 2 sts. * Sc 3 times in next st, Sc in next 3 sts. Repeat from * 2 times. Sc 3 times in next st, sc in next st. (24)
Round 4: Sc in next 3 sts. * Sc 3 times in next st, sc in next 5 sts. Repeat from * 2 times. Sc 3 times in next st, sc in next 2 sts. (32)
Round 5: Sc in next 4 sts. * Sc 3 times in next st, sc in next 7 sts. Repeat from * 2 times. Sc 3 times in next st, sc in next 3 sts. (40)
Round 6: Sc in next 5 sts. * Sc 3 times in next st, sc in next 9 sts. Repeat from * 2 times. Sc 3 times in next st, sc in next 4 sts. (48)

Keep working this pattern until your washcloth is the size you want! The general pattern is to single crochet three times in each corner stitch… and to keep going! Easy!

washclothBest,
Stacey
Stacey from FreshStitches

Save

Free Pattern: Persephone slouchy beret

Free Slouchy Beret knitting pattern

This slouchy beret is deceptively simple to knit, and makes use of one color-changing yarn and one complimentary solid color to create a gorgeous design. In this sample, I used handspun yarn as the colorful yarn, but any number of commercial yarns would look wonderful, including: Noro Silk Garden, Crystal Palace’s Mochi Plus or Noro Kureyon.

For this pattern, you will need:

  • 100 yards of a variegated worsted weight yarn (I used handspun, but see suggestions above)
  • 100 yards of a complimenting solid color (I used Stonehedge Fiber Mill’s Shepherd’s Wool… super soft merino!)
  • size 5 (3.75mm) 16 inch circular needle
  • size 5 (3.75mm) double point needles for the top
  • a stitch marker
  • tapestry needle
  • a length of 1mm elastic (optional)

Persephone Slouchy Beret: the pattern
Gauge: 6 sts/in
MC: solid color
CC: variegated color

free slouchy beret pattern

With MC, CO 100 sts
Rounds 1-6: * k1, p1. Repeat from * until end of round.
Round 7: * k2, m1. Repeat from * until end of round.
Round 8: * k6, m1. Repeat from * until end of round. (175)
Rounds 9-10: With CC, knit in each st.
Rounds 11-12: With MC, knit in each st.
Repeat rounds 9-12 (essentially, knit while switching colors every two rounds) until piece measures 5.5″ from end of ribbing. This is approximately 50 rounds. Add more rounds for more ‘slouch’, fewer rounds for less.

Helpful Tip: twist the strands of yarn when you are switching colors (as when working intarsia). This will prevent a gap from forming between the color changes.

Now, begin your decreases
Decrease Round 1: * k2tog, k23. Repeat from * until end of round.
Round 2: * k2tog, k22. Repeat from * until end of round.
Round 3: * k2tog, k21. Repeat from * until end of round.
Continue in this pattern (one fewer knit stitch between decreases per round) until 7 sts remain.
Cut yarn, and thread tail through remaining sts and knot!

This brim is slightly loose. To assure a snug fit, run elastic through the brim, or use a smaller size needle when working the ribbing. Wear proudly!

I was inspired by the changing of the seasons in designing this hat. I love the variation in color across the beret, and it’s versatile enough to be used as a winter hat, or a stylish spring beret. Hence the name.

According to Greek myth, Persephone was abducted by Hades and (making a long story short) was tricked into spending 3 months of each year in the underworld. Her mother, goddess of fertility of the Earth, was so distraught at losing her daughter that nothing could blossom on Earth in her absence. Upon Persephone’s return, her mother delighted, and the Earth blossomed with new fruits and vegetation. (Get it? Winter and spring!)

Enjoy!

Free knitted mini sock pattern!

free mini sock pattern from FreshStitches
Little knitted sweater and stocking ornaments/keychains are popping up all over the place… and I thought I needed to have one, too! A couple days ago, I knitted a miniature sock, and thought I’d share the pattern with all of you! Click here to download the pattern.

Miniature socks are a great project to do: they’re cute, quick, don’t take a lot of yarn, and they are a great starter to making full-sized socks. You get to practice all of the sock-making techniques (heel turning, decreasing for the gusset and toe), without the pressure of making sure it fits, or having to make a second one! Yay!

I made the sample socks using some leftover fingering weight yarn and size 2 needles, but the pattern works well for any weight yarn. It’s a wonderful way to use yarn scraps! My sock is about 3.5″ long (from cuff to toe), so you can expect a larger one if you use a worsted weight yarn.

I think it’s a fun little project, and I hope you enjoy!

Easy Cowl Tutorial

SUPER easy cowl pattern FREE
I’ve talked about dyeing yarn with Kool-aid… and now I have a finished project: an awesome cowl! Cowls seem to be everywhere this season, and I love them because they’re so versatile. As you can see in the photos above, they can be worn around the neck as a scarf, on your head like a hat, rolled up like a headband, or as a hood!

SUPER easy cowl pattern FREE

I knitted a simple stockinette cowl so that the color changes of the yarn were the main feature. It’s a fairly easy pattern that allows you to use any yarn you want! Here’s what you do if you want a simple cowl like mine:

  1. Pick your yarn and an appropriately sized needle. I selected a fingering weight yarn, and a size 5 needle (slightly large for the yarn), to get a loose, soft fabric.
  2. Knit a test swatch to determine your gauge (number of stitches per inch). Try to do a 4×4″ (10x10cm) swatch to get a good idea. My gauge was 6 sts/inch.
  3. Measure your head and calculate how many stitches it will take to get around it. My head is 21″ in circumference, and I wanted a tight fitting cowl, so I aimed for a 19″ cowl circumference. If you want a looser fit, just make this number larger. To calculate, multiply the number of inches by number of stitches per inch. I needed 19×6, or 114 sts.
  4. Cast on the number of required stitches (rounded to an even number).
  5. Knit in a ribbing for an inch or so. I did a 1×1 rib (knit one, purl one, and repeat), but if you have a multiple of 4, you could do a 2×2 rib.
  6. Knit in stockinette. I knit until I was close to using up the full skein, which ended up being about 12 inches… but you can keep going until you have the length you want!
  7. Knit another inch or so of ribbing, and cast off.

SUPER easy cowl pattern FREE

That’s it! It’s a simple cowl that will show off a lovely yarn texture or color. I hope to enjoy my cowl all winter long!

SUPER easy cowl pattern FREE