Free – Sprinkles Doll Quilt Pattern

Sprinkles! A free doll quilt pattern for the Dress Up Bunch at Shiny Happy World

Sprinkles is a doll quilt pattern I designed especially for the rag dolls in The Dress Up Bunch – but it’s also just the right size for American Girl dolls and lots of random teddy bears and stuffed animals.

Look at Bean – all ready for bed in his flannel jammies, cozily tucked in under his brand new quilt.

He’s ready for his bedtime story!

The quilt (and the name) are inspired by a river of hot fudge covered with brightly-colored sprinkles. That’s sure to bring him sweet dreams. 🙂

It’s super easy to make – comes together in just a few hours. You can make it during a naptime or two!

If you’ve never made a quilt before, this is a great one to start with. I designed it to be especially easy! The blocks are easy to cut, they go together without any fussy seam intersections, and the quilting is easy.

Here’s how to make it!

Materials

  • 1/2 yard chocolate brown fabric
  • 1 fat quarter backing fabric
  • small scraps for the sprinkles (less than 1/4 yard total)
  • small piece (approximately 16″ x 20″) of batting

Step 1

Cut all your pieces. Watch this video to see how to use rotary cutting tools to square your fabric and cut strips.

Chocolate brown fabric Cut 4 strips 2 1/2″ wide, the full width of the fabric. From those strips cut the following. . .

  • 4 rectangles, each 2 1/2″ x 14″
  • 17 squares, each 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″
  • 18 rectangles, each 2 1/2″ x 1 1/2″

Cut 2 strips 2 1/4″ wide for the binding

Sprinkles fabrics Cut 18 rectangles, each 2 1/2″ x 1 1/2″

Backing fabric 1 fat quarter, uncut

Step 2

Join your smallest rectangles into squares. For each square join 1 brown rectangle with one sprinkle/colored rectangle. Sew them together with a 1/4″ seam allowance (I very strongly recommend using a 1/4″ foot on your sewing machine for accurate piecing!)

Partially-pieced blocks for the Sprinkles doll quilt

Press the seam allowance flat. It doesn’t matter which way you press it ­- this quilt has no nested seams. I usually press toward the darker fabric, but in this case, the brown flannel was thicker than the sprinkles fabric so I pressed it toward the thinner fabric.

Repeat with the remaining small rectangles until you have 18 squares.

Sprinkles blocks ready to assemble for the doll quilt pattern

Step 3

Join all the blocks together as shown in the diagram.

Sprinkles - doll quilt pattern assembly diagram

First sew the blocks into rows, alternating brown blocks with the pieced brown/sprinkles blocks you made in Step 2. Press all your seams flat.

Then sew those rows together with your long rectangles between them. Press your seams flat.

You’re done with your quilt top!

Step 4

Time to put the layers together! Watch this video to see how to layer and baste your quilt sandwich.

Step 5

Time to quilt!

Watch this video to see how to machine quilt.

A small doll quilt pattern like this is also a great opportunity to give Big Stitch Quilting a try.

I quilted this top in two steps. First I quilted around each sprinkle. Then I quilted across the surface of the entire quilt with diagonal lines that went corner to corner on all the squares – skipping over the sprinkles.

The squares are small enough that no marking is needed ­- just eyeball it. You can see the quilting in these photos of the front and back of the quilt.

Finished Sprinkles doll quilt - made with a free pattern from Shiny Happy World
doll quilt back showing the quilting lines

Step 6

Almost done! Now you just have to bind the edges -­ my favorite part. Watch this video to see how to bind your quilt.

Finished!

Dress your doll in their favorite jammies, read them a story, then tuck them in under their cozy new quilt. Then brag a little! Or a lot. :­-) You just made a quilt! Pat yourself on the back. Call everyone you know. Take photos and share them in the Shiny Happy People group. Share them other places too – but tag them #shinyhappyworld so I see them too. 🙂

cozy doll bedtime

So many patterns!

So much bedtime fun!

Happy stitching!

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The Dress Up Bunch is a collection of cute and cuddly rag dolls. Get patterns for the dolls, plus all their fun outfits and accessories!

Charity Quilt Tutorial

Red and purple improv log cabin blocks made with the free scrap quilt pattern from Shiny Happy World

For a while now I’ve been thinking about designing a free scrap quilt pattern that’s as fun, easy and versatile as the Warren the Charity Bear pattern.

Just like Warren, I wanted something that was fast. I know some of you make and give away a LOT of these quilt every year.

I wanted something that was easy. Easy enough for a beginner or a child to make.

I wanted something that was versatile. Something that you could play around with and make a lot of different looks – and not get bored making lots of them.

When Craft Hope announced that they were looking for some quilts for part of their newest project, I jumped right in.

I’m making my quilt entirely from scraps. I sort my scraps by color and I’m tackling one basket at a time, so the blocks so far are all purple and red. When I’m done it’ll include all the colors of the rainbow. 🙂

My quilt also uses Quilt As You Go – but a different technique from what you’ve seen me use for the applique quilts. For this quilt I’m actually quilting as I piece – a huge time-saver and lots of fun. This method also allows me to use batting scraps. Bonus!

Here’s how I build a block. . .

Batting squares cut and ready to use in a free scrap quilt pattern.

Cut some batting squares a little bit bigger than the size you want your finished blocks to be. My finished blocks will be 10 inches square, which means I’d normally cut them 10 1/2 inches – but I cut mine 11 inches square to give myself a bit of wiggle room. That wiggle room lets you be a bit imperfect in your cutting – see how the fold in the batting made a little jagged pointy bit on the left side? That’s ok – it’ll get trimmed off. 🙂

Important! You must use 100% cotton batting. You’re going to press this a lot and anything with polyester in it will melt to your iron. I always use Warm & Natural – you can read my review of it here.

Blue and yellow beetle fabric on a batting square

Pick a piece of fabric to be your center feature and cut it (roughly) into the shape you want. All of mine are four sides – but nowhere near perfect squares or rectangles. I used scissors (not rotary cutting tools) and just eyeballed everything. Slap that piece down in the middle-ish of a batting square.

detail image showing how to piece an improv log cabin block

Now pick another scrap of fabric. Trim it to match the width of the starter scrap, lay it face down over the starter scrap with the raw edges mostly lined up, and sew across the edge using 1/4 inch-ish seam allowance. You’re sewing through both pieces of fabric and the batting.

detail image showing how to piece an improv log cabin block

Flip that piece up and press it flat.

Now we’ll add another strip. I like to work clockwise, but it really doesn’t matter.

detail image showing how to piece an improv log cabin block

Lay a strip face down over both your earlier pieces and trim it (roughly) to fit. Sew it in place just like the first one. (You can click on the photo if you need to see it bigger.)

detail image showing how to piece an improv log cabin block

Flip that piece open and press it flat.

first rings of red strips sewn around a yellow rectangle, demonstrating a free scrap quilt pattern

Keep working your way around that center, building up the size of your block. I added the zigzag piece next, then the skinny stripes.

Keep adding strips until the batting is completely covered.

detail image showing how to piece an improv log cabin block

Those first four red strips were pretty uniform, so it’s time for a skinnier strip. I like to keep things mixed up for more interesting blocks.

detail image showing how to piece an improv log cabin block

I also like to make sure some of my strips go slanty – so they’re thicker at one end and thinner at the other. To do that, I don’t line up the raw edges exactly – I let the new strip slope up or down a bit, like in the photo above.

detail image showing how to piece an improv log cabin block

See how that looks when it’s pressed open? It’s not the most efficient use of fabric, but I’m only wasting a tiny bit and I think it makes the block much more interesting.

detail image showing how to piece an improv log cabin block

Sometimes I use a new fabric with every strip and sometimes I’ll use the same fabric a few times in a row to build interesting shapes. Two consecutive strips of the same fabric makes an L. Three makes a U. And four makes a frame.

detail image showing how to piece an improv log cabin block

Sometimes I only have strips that are too short to reach all the way from edge to edge of the block – especially as the center section gets bigger.

When that happens, I just sew two strips together and use the new, longer strip in my piecing. Sometimes I use two strips of the same fabric, and sometimes I use different fabrics (like in the strip on the right in the photo above). It totally depends on my mood at the moment.

Red improv log cabin block with raggedy edges, waiting to be trimmed. Free scrap quilt pattern.

Keep going until your batting square is completely covered.

Finished block in a free scrap quilt pattern, shown from the back so you can see the quilting lines

Here it is from the back. See how there’s fabric showing all around the edge of the batting? And look at the nice quilting already done – holding everything together. I’m going to back this quilt with cuddle fleece for special cuddly warmth. There are tips here for using cuddle fleece for the back.

Trimmed block (shown from the back) in a free scrap quilt pattern

Trim your block down to size from the back, so you can see that you’re getting batting in the entire block. I trimmed mine down to 10 1/2″ square.

And here’s the finished block!

Finished red improv log cabin block - a sample demo block in a free scrap quilt pattern

In the very first photo I showed the blocks arranged in a checkerboard-ish pattern, with red blocks alternating with purple. I’m not sure yet what the final arrangement for the quilt will be – it kind of depends on how many blocks I end up with for each color. Here’s an alternate possibility where the blocks blend from one color to another.

Red and purple sample block arrangement for a free scrap quilt pattern from Shiny Happy World

Whatever arrangement I choose, the final quilt will be bright and cheerful and cuddly and warm – just what I want to give a child. 🙂

Update! You can see the finished free scrap quilt here. Along with showing the finished quilt, I also answered a lot of questions people had about the process. Click over to get more details.

A couple of final notes. . .

I think improvisational scrap blocks like this look best when you sort your fabrics a bit first. You can see that within the red blocks there’s a brick red block, a red and white block, two bright pink blocks, one light pink block, and several bright red blocks. Within the purples I have one magenta-ish purple block, three lighter purple blocks, and lots of dark purple blocks. Sticking to one shade or tone per block keeps a little order.

This would be a really fun way to make an I Spy quilt – with pairs of center pieces to match up. I have two of the larger blue/green stars and two of the girl in the blue tree.

Here’s a post with some helpful info about where you can donate your finished beauties made with this free scrap quilt pattern.

Happy quilting!

Block 11 in the Controlled Chaos Scrappy Quilt-Along

Controlled Chaos Block #11

Here’s block #11 in the Controlled Chaos Quilt! This one is super simple and easy.

What You’ll Need

  • 40  two-inch squares in color A (shown in purple)
  • 60 two-inch squares in color B (shown in pale blue)

Instructions

Use 1/4″ seam allowances for all sewing.

Press all the seams. I’m pressing mine open for this quilt. I think it will make things simpler in the end.

Arrange your squares according to the diagram below.

Controlled Chaos Block #11 exploded

Super easy. Sew the blocks into columns, then sew the columns together into a beautiful stripy block.

Here’s what my eleven blocks look like so far.

11 blocks of Controlled Chaos

Click here for all the Controlled Chaos posts.

Happy piecing!

Best,
Wendi
That's me!

Block 10 in the Controlled Chaos Scrappy Quilt-Along

 

Block 10 in the Controlled Chaos Scrappy Quilt-Along

Here’s block #10 in the Controlled Chaos Quilt!

What You’ll Need

  • 52  two-inch squares in color A (shown in purple)
  • 48 two-inch squares in color B (shown in pink)

Instructions

Use 1/4″ seam allowances for all sewing.

Press all the seams. I’m pressing mine open for this quilt. I think it will make things simpler in the end.

Arrange your squares according to the diagram below.

Controlled Chaos block 10 exploded

For this block I sewed things up in chunks in order to keep the edges of each color perfectly straight, even if my seams weren’t lined up perfectly.

We’re going to sew the whole thing into three fat rows, but we’re going to sew some parts of those rows into chunks first.

1. Sew up the four purple 3×3 squares and 1 purple 4×4 square.

2. Sew up four pink 3×4 rectangles.

Arrange those chunks as you see below.

Block 10 in the Controlled Chaos Scrappy Quilt-Along

Now sew all those chunks into rows.

Block 10 in the Controlled Chaos Scrappy Quilt-Along

Finally – sew all those rows into one fabulous block. 🙂

Here’s what my ten blocks look like so far. It’s half of my quilt!

Block 10 in the Controlled Chaos Scrappy Quilt-Along

Click here for all the Controlled Chaos posts.

Happy piecing!

Best,
Wendi
That's me!

Free Pattern! Itty Bitty Pocket Pirate

Because it’s fun to keep a pirate in your pocket. 🙂 Especially when that pirate is filled with plastic pellets for that lovely, squishy beanbag feel.

He’s also just the right size to be a mini doll for the Dress Up Bunch dolls. 🙂

Want to make him? Here’s how.

Download the pattern here.

Materials (find links to my favorite tools and supplies here)

  • scrap of skin­-colored fabric
  • scrap of red fabric for the bandana
  • scrap of striped fabric for the shirt
  •  scrap of blue fabric for the shorts
  • embroidery thread for the face (I used Sulky 12wt. cotton thread in dark brown)
  • plastic pellets (I like Poly­Pellets Weighted Stuffing Beads)
  • polyfill stuffing (I like Soft Touch Poly­fil Supreme Fiberfill)

Use 1/4 inch seam allowance for all sewing.

Step 1

Cut out all materials as directed on the pattern pieces. You should have. . .

  • 2 head pieces (1 reversed)
  • 2 bandana pieces (1 reversed)
  • 1 shirt front piece
  • 2 shirt back pieces (1 reversed)
  • 2 pants pieces
  • 4 foot pieces (2 reversed)
  • 4 hand pieces (2 reversed)
  • 4 bandana knot pieces

Step 2

Trace the face onto one head piece.

Embroider the nose and mouth using backstitch and a single strand of Sulky 12 wt. embroidery thread (the equivalent of two strands of regular embroidery thread).

Use this eye stitch for the eyes.

Step 3

Layer two bandana knot pieces right rides together and sew the sides and pointy top. Leave the bottom open for turning.

Repeat for the second pair of bandana knot pieces.

Trim away the extra seam allowance at the points.

Step 4

Turn the bandana knot pieces right side out and press.

Step 5

Fold the ends in half, stack the two pieces mostly on top of each other and sew them together 1/4 inch from the raw edge.

It doesn’t have to be pretty -­ it just has to keep them folded and together. :­-)

Set the bandana knots aside.

Step 6

Sew the hands to the shirt pieces.

Press the seam allowance open.

Step 7

Sew the feet to the pants.

Press the seam allowance open.

Step 8

Sew the bandana pieces to the top of the head pieces.

Press the seam allowance open.

Step 9

Sew the two shirt back pieces together along the center back line, making sure to leave a few inches open for stuffing.

Don’t forget to backstitch at the beginning and end of your stuffing opening.

Step 10

Open up the center back pieces and press the seam nice and flat, including the edges of the stuffing opening. That will give you a nice clean edge to sew when you’re closing up that opening by hand.

The stick shows where the stuffing opening is.

Step 11

Sew the shirt pieces to the pants.

Press the seam allowance open.

Step 12

Fold the bottom of the head and the top of the body in half to find the centers. Line those centers up so the head is exactly centered on the body.

Sew the face to the body front and the other head piece to the body back.

Flip the heads up and press. The seam allowance should be pressed toward the head so the body remains flat.

Step 13

Lay the body front face up on a flat surface.

Lay the bandana knot over the face as shown in the photo. It should be right at the seam where the bandana meets the head, with the folds face down and with the raw edge hanging off the edge of the head by about 1/4 inch.

Pin or clip in place.

Step 14

Place the body back face down over the front, sandwiching the bandana knot between the layers.

Pin or clip the layers together carefully, matching all the seams first (the white pins) and then pinning as needed around them (the red and yellow pins).

Step 15

Sew all the way around the body using 1/4 inch seam allowance. Make sure you’re catching the bandana knot in your stitching.

Clip into the seam allowance at all the concave curves and points as shown in the photo.

Step 16

Turn your pirate right side out and use a smooth stick to poke out all the curves.

Stuff the head pretty firmly with fiberfill.

Pour 1/2 cup of plastic pellets into the body and sew up the opening in the back using ladder stitch.

Finished!

Slip him into someone’s pocket and send him off on an adventure!

© Wendi Gratz 2014
This pattern is for personal use only and is not available for commercial resale. That means you may not copy and sell or digitally distribute the pattern. You may, however, sell items you make with the pattern.

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Best,
Wendi
Applique Wendi (with fabulous hat)

Block 9 in the Controlled Chaos Scrappy Quilt-Along

Block #9 in the Controlled Chaos Scrappy Quilt-Along at Shiny Happy World

Here’s block #9 in the Controlled Chaos Quilt!

What You’ll Need

  • 34  two-inch squares in color A (shown in orange)
  • 66 two-inch squares in color B (shown in aqua)

Instructions

Use 1/4″ seam allowances for all sewing.

Press all the seams. I’m pressing mine open for this quilt. I think it will make things simpler in the end.

Arrange your squares according to the diagram below.

Block #9 in the Controlled Chaos Scrappy Quilt-Along at Shiny Happy World

For this block I sewed things up a little differently in order to keep the edges of my chunks of color perfectly straight, even if my seams weren’t lined up perfectly.

We’re going to sew the whole thing into three fat rwos, but we’re going to sew some parts of those rows into chunks first.

1. Sew up the two orange 3×3 squares and 1 orange 4×4 square.

2. Sew up two aqua 3×7 rectangles and two aqua 3×4 rectangles.

Arrange those chunks as you see below.

Block #9 in the Controlled Chaos Scrappy Quilt-Along at Shiny Happy World

Now sew all those chunks into rows.

Block #9 in the Controlled Chaos Scrappy Quilt-Along at Shiny Happy World

Finally – sew all those rows into one fabulous block. 🙂

Here’s what my nine blocks look like so far. . .

Controlled Chaos quilt-in-progress

Eleven blocks to go!

Click here for all the Controlled Chaos posts.

Happy piecing!

Best,
Wendi
That's me!

Free Pattern from a Failed Tooth Fairy – Tooth Fairy Pillow

I’d like to have a few words with whoever invented the Tooth Fairy.

Seriously.

Let’s start a tradition where a child places a teeny, tiny tooth under their pillow and parents have to retrieve it in the middle of the night without waking the child.

This is madness.

The night after Jo lost her first tooth she caught me frantically scrabbling around under her pillow in the dark, looking for a tooth the size of an apple seed.

She (naturally) asked me what the heck I was doing.

“Ummmmm. . . nothing. Just checking to see if the tooth fairy came yet. I. . . ummmmm. . . couldn’t wait until morning.”

Which she bought, but only because it was her first tooth and she was six years old.

After that somebody gave her a tiny little tooth fairy box that hung from her bedpost. It was just the right size for holding a tooth, but the money still had to go under the pillow.

I kept thinking about making a tooth fairy pillow that would hold tooth and money, but I couldn’t figure out exactly what I wanted to do. By now she’s lost all of her baby teeth, but as soon as I saw this cute new fabric I knew right away that it would make a perfect tooth fairy pillow.

Luckily, you all give me an excuse a reason to keep designing things that Jo outgrew years ago. 🙂

Free Tooth Fairy Pillow Pattern from Shiny Happy World

The pocket is big enough for grown-up fingers to reach in and find a tiny tooth. It’ll hold paper money or fun coins (Jo got a dollar coin for every tooth). And being snug up against a plump pillow means teeth and coins won’t just fall out.

The pillow is also big enough that it won’t get lost in the mountain of stuffed animals that help our kids hide those lost teeth. 🙂

If you have an especially light sleeper, you can add that ribbon loop so you can hang the pillow from a bedpost or door handle. It’s easy and the pattern has instructions.

The best part of the project is that you can position the tiny pocket anywhere on the pillow you like. Make sure not to cover up your favorite bit! I especially like this little block showing how many teeth dogs and cats have. (Sorry – this fabric is discontinued now.)

Free Tooth Fairy Pillow Pattern from Shiny Happy World

Jo would have latched right on to fun facts like this! She also would have liked the grossness of the picture of tooth decay. 🙂

Ready to make your own?

Download the free tooth fairy pillow pattern here.

And I’d love to hear some tooth fairy stories from others! Surely (hopefully) I wasn’t the only abject failure out there?

Happy stitching!

Block 8 in the Controlled Chaos Scrappy Quilt-Along

Block #8 in the Controlled Chaos Scrappy Quilt-Along at Shiny Happy World

Here’s block #8 in the Controlled Chaos Quilt!

What You’ll Need

  • 36  two-inch squares in color A (shown in yellow)
  • 64 two-inch squares in color B (shown in green)

Instructions

Use 1/4″ seam allowances for all sewing.

Press all the seams. I’m pressing mine open for this quilt. I think it will make things simpler in the end.

Arrange your squares according to the diagram below.

Controlled Chaos Block #8 - exploded

For this block I sewed things up a little differently – mainly to keep the edges of my yellow squares perfectly straight, even if my seams weren’t lined up perfectly.

We’re going to sew the whole things into columns, but we’re going to sew some parts of those columns into chunks first.

1. Sew up the four all-green columns.

2. Sew the middle two all-green columns together.

3. Sew all the yellow squares into their 3×3 blocks.

4. Sew eight 1×3 green rectangles.

5. Sew four of the 1×3 green rectangles into two 2×3 green rectangles.

Arrange everything as you see below.

Block #8 in the Controlled Chaos Scrappy Quilt-Along at Shiny Happy World

Now sew all those chunks into columns.

Block #8 in the Controlled Chaos Scrappy Quilt-Along at Shiny Happy World

Finally – sew all those columns into one fabulous block. 🙂

Here’s what my eight blocks look like so far. . .

Controlled Chaos Quilt - 8 blocks done , 12 to go

Twelve blocks to go!

Click here for all the Controlled Chaos posts.

Happy stitching!

Best,
Wendi
That's me!

Free Pattern – The Gobbler – A Pencil Eating Monster

The Gobbler - a free monster pencil case pattern from Shiny Happy World

I call this pencil-eating pouch The Gobbler.

It’s so much fun to choose fabrics and sew this project! If you can sew a straight line and sew on buttons – you can make The Gobbler.

You can make it even if you’ve never sewn a straight line – the pattern has links to videos teaching you everything you need to know. 🙂

This video shows how to cut fabric using rotary cutting tools.

This video shows how to sew a straight line and turn corners.

Materials

  • 1 fat quarter of fabric for the outside of the pouch
  • 1 fat quarter of fabric for the inside of the pouch
  • scraps of fabric for the hair/spikes
  • two 7/8 inch buttons for the eyes (I stacked smaller black buttons on top of these buttons)
  • two 3/16″ buttons for the nostrils (optional)
  • 9 inch zipper

The hardest part of this project is getting the fabric facing the right direction, so pay special attention to those parts of the instructions.

Step 1

Cut out all materials.

For the top of the face cut one wide rectangle 3″ tall and 10″ wide. Cut the same size from the lining fabric.

For the bottom of the face cut one narrow rectangle 2″ tall and 10″ wide. Cut the same size from the lining fabric.

Wait to cut the pieces for the back of the pouch. The size will vary depending on the width of your zipper, how close to the teeth your zipper foot lets you get, etc.

For the pointy spikes cut five 3″ squares.

Step 2

Lay the wider rectangle in the outside fabric face up on a flat surface.

Lay the zipper face down over the fabric. Make sure the teeth of the zipper (not the zipper tape) are centered over the rectangle. Line the edge of the zipper tape up with the edge of the fabric and pin in place.

Click here for a video showing how to do this kind of zipper installation.

Step 3

Lay the wider rectangle in the lining fabric face down over the rectangle from Step 2, with the zipper sandwiched between the two layers of fabric.

Pin or clip the layers in place.

Step 4

Sew the three layers together (outer rectangle, lining rectangle and zipper) getting as close to the teeth of the zipper as possible. You’ll want to stop partway along the seam to move the zipper pull out of your way. Watch this video for tips.

If you have a zipper foot, that will let you get very close to the teeth. If you don’t have a zipper foot, just get as close as you can. You’ll have a little more zipper tape showing in the finished pouch and it will be fine.

Step 5

Flip the fabric rectangles right side out and press.

On the right side of the zipper (where the pull is) you should have the right side of the outer fabric showing. If you flip the whole thing over you should have the right side of the lining fabric showing.

Step 6

Repeat Steps 2-5 with the narrower fabric rectangles and the other side of the zipper for the bottom of the face.

Remember ­- the right side of the outer fabric should be facing the right side of the zipper and the right side of the lining fabric when you sew.

You’re done with the front of the pouch!

Here’s the view of the same piece from the inside. You should be seeing the right side of the lining fabric.

Step 7

Sew on some fun features! I stacked black buttons on top of larger blue buttons for the eyes, and sewed on tiny black buttons for the nostrils.

Play around and have fun with these! Add one giant button to make a cyclops. Embroider on some eyebrows. Skip the nostrils. Make it your own!

You’ll be sewing all around the outside of the pouch using 1/2″ seam allowance ­- so make sure to take that into account when you position your eyes and other features.

Flip the lining piece out of the way so you’re only sewing through the outer fabric.

Step 8

Measure the finished piece. It should be 10 inches wide, but the height will vary depending on the chunkiness of the zipper you’re using, and how close to the teeth you were able to stitch. Mine was 10″ wide and 4 7/8″ tall.

Use the measurements of your finished face to cut two back pouch pieces to match it. Cut one from the outer fabric and one from the lining fabric.

Step 9

For the hair/spikes we’ll be making some prairie points. It’s really easy -­ just folding!

Fold one of your squares in half along the diagonal.

Press.

Now fold it in half again, so that all the raw edges are lined up along the longest edge of the triangle.

Press.

Done! Repeat for the other four squares.

Step 10

Ready to put it all together?

Pin the prairie points along the top edge of the face. I start by folding the face in half to find the center. Pin the center point in place first, then pin the two at the edges, then center the last two between them.

All the raw edges of the prairie points should be lined up with the raw edges of the outer and lining fabrics.

Step 11

Unzip the zipper mouth at least part way. This is very important! If you forget, you won’t be able to turn your pouch right side out after the next step!

Lay the outer fabric rectangle (the one you cut in Step 8) face down over the face, with the prairie points sandwiched between the two layers.

Lay the lining rectangle face up over the outer fabric. Pin all the layers together all the way around the edges.

Step 12

Sew all the way around the edge using 1/2″ seam allowance. That should have you sewing right up against the bumpy ends of the zipper.

Trim away your excess seam allowance with pinking shears. That will keep the fabric from fraying too badly -­ plus it looks cute. :­)

Leave about 1/4″ seam allowance.

Step 13

Turn the pouch right side out and poke out the corners with a chopstick. You’re done! See how cute the contrasting lining inside the mouth looks?

Do you like this? Get the weekly Shiny Happy News and never miss a free pattern! Sign up here.

Happy sewing!

Best,
Wendi
That's me!

 

Block 7 in the Controlled Chaos Scrappy Quilt-Along

Block 7 in the Controlled Chaos Scrappy Quilt-Along - free tutorials at Shiny Happy World

I had to take a bit of a break from the Controlled Chaos while I made my daughter Jo a T-shirt quilt to take to school with her, but I’m back! I’m easing back into things with some simple wide stripes.

Ready to make block #7?

What You’ll Need

  • 60  two-inch squares in color A (shown in blue)
  • 40 two-inch squares in color B (shown in pink)

Instructions

Use 1/4″ seam allowances for all sewing.

Arrange your squares according to the diagram below and sew them together into rows.

Press all the seams. I’m pressing mine open for this quilt. I think it will make things simpler in the end.

Sew the rows together to make the finished block.

Here’s the exploded view. . .

Controlled Chaos block 7 exploded

Here’s what my seven blocks look like so far. . .

7 blocks down, 13 to go

I’ve decided to make mine a largish lap-sized quilt for me to use on the couch. It’ll be 4 blocks wide and 5 blocks tall for a finished size of 60″ x 75″ – a little smaller than a twin quilt. And I’m going to hand-quilt it!

Click here for all the Controlled Chaos posts.

Happy piecing!

Best,
Wendi
That's me!