Video – How to Cut Small Squares from Scraps

How to Cut Small Squares from Scraps - a video tutorial from Shiny Happy World

I think everyone has a favorite method for cutting small squares from scraps.

In this video I share the two methods (and tools) that I use – depending on the size and shape of the scraps I’m cutting.

Of course, you can use these methods for any size squares. Right now I’m working on the Controlled Chaos quilt and that uses 2 inch squares, so that’s what I showed. 🙂

Here’s the video.

Coming next week. . . a video showing how I chain piece these squares together. It’s fast!

You can see all the Controlled Chaos posts here.

Happy quilting!

Best,
Wendi
That's me!

Controlled Chaos Block #3 – a scrappy quilt-along

Controlled Chaos Scrappy Quilt-Along at Shiny Happy WorldHere’s block #3 in the scrappy quilt-along.

I love it!

This time I went for a classic checkerboard in pretty blues and greens.

My inspiration?

A block sent in by a reader!

Ann shared her first block and wrote. . .

Blue and green stripes – not as noticeably ‘stripy’ as I had hoped for – will try for greater contrast in next block.

Here’s Ann’s block.

Controlled Chaos block #1 made by Ann

I have to say right here that I love this block! So much that it inspired the color combo in my own block #3.

But I see what’s Ann’s talking about so I’m going to share a little color lesson here.

The Official Quilters Rule (which you may choose to ignore at any time) is to choose your lights and darks carefully.

Ann has her rows divided by color, but within each stripe there’s a full range from very light to medium dark.

Sometimes your eye wants to see contrast because of color, and sometimes it wants to see contrast because of shade.

The best example in this block is that stack of three very light colored blocks right in the middle of the bottom three rows. See how your eye wants to group them together as one tall rectangle? That’s because they’re very similar in shade, even if some are blue and one is green. And they’re surrounded by noticeably darker blocks of both colors. That breaks up the desired stripey effect by creating a competing shape that the eye likes more.

I happen to LOVE this dapply effect and I reproduced it in my own block. But if it’s not your cup of tea, here are a couple of things you can do to help bring up the contrast.

1. Be more mindful of your darks and lights. If it’s hard for you to “see” the effect you’re getting, try using your camera to help. Lay out the blocks you think you want to use, snap a photo, then convert the image to black and white.

Here’s Ann’s block converted.black and white version of low-contrast Controlled Chaos block

Without the distraction of color you can more easily see that it’s a random assortment of light and dark.

Use this tool to help you really see which blocks are lightest and which are darkest. If Ann had used only her darkest blues and only her lightest greens, she would have gotten the more stripey effect she wanted.

You can get the same help by looking through a red lens – faster than taking photos and fiddling with filters. Quilt shops used to carry them, but I haven’t seen them in a long time. Get some red acetate from a florist and look through it to make a cheap and easy red lens for yourself.

2. Use the distraction of color to your advantage. If I’m pairing two colors in a block I almost always go for a warm color and a cool color. That helps your eye see contrast between the colors where there’s very little (or no) contrast in the shade. Take a look at my first block.

Controlled Chaos contrast lesson - block 1

If you look at the grayscale version it’s very clear that this is a big wash of medium tones with almost no contrast except a handful of randomly-placed very dark squares. (A total failure according to Official Quilter Rules.)

But in color you can clearly see the stripes! Thank you warm and cool contrast! 🙂

The reason Ann’s block didn’t feel stripey enough to her was because it had a range of shades in both color stripes and blue and green are right next to each other on the color wheel.

Again – I love it! But now you have some tools to help you out if you feel like you’re not getting the contrast you want. Thanks, Ann, for letting me use your block as an example! And for inspiring my third block. 🙂

Ready to make your own Block #3?

What You’ll Need

  • 52  two-inch squares in color A (shown in green)
  • 48 two-inch squares in color B (shown in blue)

Instructions

Use 1/4″ seam allowances for all sewing.

Arrange your squares according to the exploded view.

Controlled Chaos Block 3 exploded

Sew sets of four blocks into squares. Then arrange those squares in rows.

Controlled Chaos Block 3 in progress

Doing it this way will keep the edges of the color blocks perfectly straight, even if your seams and intersections aren’t perfect.

Sew the larger blocks together into rows.

Press all the seams. I’m pressing mine open for this quilt. I think it will make things simpler in the end.

Sew the rows together to make the finished block.

Here’s what my quilt is looking like so far.

Controlled Chaos Scrappy Quilt-Along: 3 blocks finished

I love it! But I have to NOT use blue in the next block. 🙂 I didn’t realize until I had put them all together that every block has blue so far!

Block #4 coming next week! And take a look at this video showing how I cut my squares from scraps.

Click here for all the Controlled Chaos posts.

If you’re stitching along – please share photos of any finished blocks in the Shiny Happy People group! We’d all love to see what you’re making!

Happy piecing!

Best,
Wendi
That's me!

 

Tips and Tricks for Working with Cuddle Fleece

Tips and Tricks for Working with Cuddle Fleece - from Shiny Happy World

I loooove using Cuddle Fleece for making softies!

I discovered it at Quilt Market last year and fell in love – and then couldn’t find it in any shops. It was even hard to find online! So I ordered a few bolts to carry in my shop and I’ve been using it for softies and quilt backs ever since.

Update – I’m not able to carry Cuddle Fleece in the shop anymore, but I found a good substitute! More details here.

It’s mostly very easy to work with – similar to polar fleece – but I do get some questions about it. Here are the answers to the most frequently asked questions. . .

It’s so shifty! How do you keep the layers from moving around?

The layers come in two times in the process – when you’re cutting and when you’re sewing. I prefer to cut mine one layer at a time instead of folding and cutting through two layers. That way I get the most accurate cut possible. Do be sure to flip the pattern pieces for the second cuts so you’re still getting one reversed!

When you’re sewing two layers together you have to deal with layers. There’s no way around it. That’s when I use Wonder Clips. You can use pins instead, but Wonder Clips handle the fat fabric really well and without distorting the layers at all. You can clip them really close together (every inch or so) and just sew slowly, unclipping each one as you get to it.

It’s so fat! Do I have to do anything special to sew through it?

Cuddle Fleece shares one of the same challenges as polar fleece.

It’s fat.

The thickness of the fabric can make the layers shift while you’re sewing – especially when you’re sewing through two layers plus the additional layers of an arm or leg in there. There’s a video showing how I deal with the fatness here. It’s specifically about polar fleece, but all those tips also apply to Cuddle Fleece.

Do I need a special needle?

I sew mine with a basic universal needle and have no problems. If you find your machine is skipping stitches I recommend switching to a stretch needle.

If you have a walking foot – use it!

If you don’t have a walking foot – pin like crazy.

Which is the right side of the fabric?

Cuddly Bailey Bear - fabric and pattern from Shiny Happy World

They’re both good – but they are different. You just have to choose what works best for you for a particular project. One side has a shorter, smoother pile. That’s the one I often choose as the “right” side. It’s what you see on the bunny up there.

The other side is a little shaggier looking. The pile is a bit longer, and a teeny bit more irregular. Use this as the right side when you want a rougher look.

You can also combine the two textures in one softie like I did with that green Bailey Bear. I used the shaggier side on his belly patch.

How do you mark on it?

Cuddle Fleece, like polar fleece, can also be difficult to mark on. With polar fleece the problem is that it’s basically made out of plastic, so markers tend to bead up on it, take a long time to dry, and smear easily when wet.

The problem with marking on Cuddle Fleece is that it has a bit of a nap to it.

Marking eyes is easy – I just punch holes in my pattern piece and then mark through the holes with a fabric marker.

Marking lines is a bit trickier. For them I turn to The Magical Embroidery Stuff (aka Sulky Sticky Fabri-Solvy).

Seriously – is there anything this stuff isn’t good for?

For the bunny you see at the top of the post I marked the eyes as mentioned above. I could have eyeballed the nose and mouth, but I wanted to make sure I got those whiskers balanced. That meant sticking to my pattern piece exactly as drawn. 🙂

I traced the entire face on a scrap of Sulky Sticky Fabri-Solvy and then stuck it down to the fabric, using those eye markings to guide my placement.

Yes – it sticks just fine to the Cuddle Fleece. It’s amazing stuff!

Sulky Sticky Fabri-Solvy is great for transferring a face to cuddle fleece.

I embroidered right through the stabilizer, then soaked it away in cold water and tossed it in the dryer for a quick dry and fluff.

Sulky Sticky Fabri-Solvy is great for transferring a face to cuddle fleece.

Perfect! And since I used a fabric marker to mark those eyes, the dots are still there after rinsing The Magical Embroidery Stuff away.

The fluff! Is there any way to keep the fluff under control?

That’s the most common question people have. Cuddle Fleece is fluffy and soft – and when you cut it that fluffiness can go everywhere!

When I cut pieces to make a softie, I walk them straight to the dryer and toss them inside. I tumble it all with no heat for about 10 minutes. When I pull them out – all the fluff is gone. The edges won’t fray after cutting, so once you get that initial cutting fluff off, you can continue work on the rest of the project with no more shedding.

Awesome!

If you have any other questions about this lovely fabric, just let me know in the comments. I’ll either update this post or (if there are enough additional questions) I’ll do a follow-up post.

Here’s one of those follow-up posts. 🙂 A video answering lots of reader questions about using cuddle fleece for quilt backs. Watch it here.

Happy sewing!

How to Applique with Fusible Adhesive – video

How to Applique with Fusible Adhesive - all the steps - video tutorial

I’ve been doing a lot more applique with fusible adhesive lately (now that I’ve discovered some products I really like) and I’ve been getting requests for some more tutorials for it.

Ask and you shall receive.

I’ve already got a basic applique with fusible adhesive video here, but it only shows fusing down one piece – not the multiple pieces and layers you often use for cute quilt blocks. Do watch it, though, if you want tips on outlining your applique pieces with zigzag or satin stitch.

I’ve got a non-video step-by-step tutorial here. That has all the steps I’m going to demo in this video – just not in video format. I’ve had some requests for a video, so here it is. . .

See how easy it is and why I’ve grown to love it so much?

In the video I said I’d share a photo of the finished block – nice and big so you can zoom in close. Here it is – just click on it if you want to see it even bigger.

Hazel - a block from the Chirp quilt pattern from Shiny Happy World

Find the Chirp bird quilt pattern here.

Here are links to all the posts showing how to applique with fusible adhesive – my favorite method. It’s fast and easy and (with the right materials) it holds up beautifully to rough use and repeated washing.

Here are links to special posts about eyes.

Here are links to some extra fun things you can do with your applique.

Other Applique Methods

Finished with this topic?

Return to the Let’s Make a Quilt main Table of Contents.

Move on to the lessons about outline stitching.

Happy quilting!

How to Turn Any Embroidery Pattern into an Applique Pattern

It's easy to turn any embroidery pattern into an applique pattern!

Want to learn the basics of hand embroidery with an easy online workshop – totally free?

Sign up for Embroidery 101 here. You’ll learn how to get started, the tools and supplies you’ll need, the four most basic stitches, how to transfer your pattern and how to display your work.

If you already know the basics – sign up for Embroidery 201. It’s also free! You’ll learn how to stitch on specialty fabrics like felt and stretchy T-shirts. Plus you’ll learn lots and lots and LOTS more stitches – all my favorites!

I’ve been getting a lot of requests lately for specific applique patterns – owls, robots, horses, peace signs and more.

I add a lot of these ideas to The List – but for someone who’s looking to make an owl crib quilt for a baby due next month, The List isn’t going to cut it.

So today I’m going to show you how you can turn any embroidery pattern into an applique pattern.

I have TONS of embroidery patterns – and a lot of those have multiple images that you could use as quilt blocks to make a full quilt.

So let’s jump in!

The specific instructions here are all for applique with fusible adhesive – my new favorite method now that I’ve discovered this stuff. You could easily adapt the idea to work with needle-turn applique or freezer paper applique or whatever your favorite method is.

Step 1: Size and Print Your Image

How to Turn Any Embroidery Pattern into an Applique Pattern

I chose to applique one of the Rainbow Girls. The embroidery patterns are about three inches tall – so my first step was to make that a LOT bigger.

I’ve got a tutorial here showing how to resize any embroidery pattern.

Print your image out at exactly the size you want it to be. I enlarged my girl to be about ten inches tall.

I’m not going to use the big flowers – I’m just going to choose a pretty fabric that needs no fancification – but I’m not going to bother to erase them. I’ll just ignore them.

I did add a little line separating the legs from the feet. I want my applique girl to have striped tights and solid shoes, so those will be two separate pieces.

Step 2: Reverse, Explode and Trace

How to Turn Any Embroidery Pattern into an Applique Pattern

Next you need to get your image onto some fusible adhesive.

You’re going to trace the reverse of your image onto the paper side of your fusible adhesive, and you’re going to explode the pieces as you do it.

This is the part of the instructions most likely to make your head hurt – but it’s really not that hard. Just don’t think about it too much. 🙂

Tape your image face down in a window. The light will shine through so you’ll still be able to see the image clearly through the back of the paper – but now you’ll be tracing a mirror image. Easy!

Put your fusible adhesive up there so you’re tracing on the paper side. The adhesive side is usually kind of bumpy – it won’t be hard to tell the difference.

Now you’re going to trace an exploded view of your image. That sounds violent, but all it really means is that you’re going to trace each shape separately and leave a little space between them.

Click on the Step 2 image up there and you can see what I did. The dress is one shape. The face is one shape. The hair is one shape. Each pigtail is a separate shape.

This is also the stage where I start thinking about how I’m going to put it all together – what pieces will be tucked behind other pieces. I trace those tucked-behind edges with a dotted line: the top of the dress, the top of the head, and the tops and bottoms of the legs.

Step 3: Rough Cut the Adhesive

How to Turn Any Embroidery Pattern into an Applique Pattern

Now cut all those pieces out – but not right on your tracing lines!

This is a rough cut.

Cut a little bit outside all your lines.

You don’t have to be too fussy about it and it doesn’t have to be super even – just leave a little extra all the way around the edge.

Step 4: Fuse to the Fabric

How to Turn Any Embroidery Pattern into an Applique Pattern

Now comes the fun part.

Fuse all your pieces to your fabric.

Lay them paper side up (adhesive side down) on the back side of your fabric.

If your fabric has a print, make sure it’s running the way you want.

I made sure the stripes were running across the tights, and that I liked the way the birds were arranged on the dress.

Iron in place following the instructions on your fusible adhesive – every brand is different so you need to read the instructions.

Step 5: Cut Out the Pieces

How to Turn Any Embroidery Pattern into an Applique Pattern

Now is when you’re going to do your careful cutting.

Remember how you traced some edges of your pieces with a dotted line back in Step 2? That’s going to be useful now.

Cut each piece out right on your solid lines.

Leave a little extra overhang where you have dotted lines – that will give you a bit of fabric to tuck under the adjoining piece.

If you click on the Step 5 image you can see what I’m talking about. I left the dress piece flipped over so you can see the dotted line at the top. That bit of extra fabric extending past the dotted line will tuck behind the head.

One more thing to do on this step – trace any features that need embroidering. In this case that’s the eyes and mouth. I included them when I traced the head back in Step 2, so now all I need to do is put the face piece fabric side up in a window. With the light behind them, the eyes and mouth will show right through the fabric. Just trace them on the fabric with a fine marker. Make sure you do this before you peel off the paper backing in the next step!

Step 6: Arrange and Fuse

How to Turn Any Embroidery Pattern into an Applique Pattern

This is my favorite part – putting it all together!

Peel off the paper backs and arrange all the pieces on your background fabric.

(I went ahead and quilted my pink background block to some batting first – this might end up being a quilt block.)

Take the opportunity now – before it’s all stuck down – to play around with the arrangement of the pieces. Adjust the tilt of her head, the angles of her pigtails, etc. I decided to make one leg stick out a bit like she’s getting ready to dance. Have fun!

When you’re happy with how everything looks, carefully fuse it all into place with your iron. Again – read the instructions on your brand of fusible adhesive. And remember that the temperature and steam setting for the final fabric-to-fabric fuse are often different than for the initial paper-to-fabric fuse.

If you want to see all these steps in video form – watch this video showing how I use fusible adhesive for all my quilt blocks.

Step 7: Stitch the Edges

And now for the final step – stitch down all the edges. Some people like to use a heavy satin stitch. Some use a zigzag stitch. I like to use a simple straight stitch in black thread. It’s a cartoony outline effect that really suits the loose style of my designs.

How to Turn Any Embroidery Pattern into an Applique PatternI stitched over her eyes and mouth twice with the machine. I could have chosen a heavier thread instead – or done bit of hand embroidery – but I was already at the machine so I just did it there.

That’s it! Now go look at all your embroidery patterns with fresh eyes. 🙂

Happy sewing!

Best,
Wendi

How to Do Fusible Applique – all the details

Orange and Yellow applique cat on a green background - title for a blog post showing how to do fusible applique

Fusible applique is so fast and easy and fun!

I’ve already got a video showing the basics of using fusible adhesive. In a nutshell. . .

  • Trace the mirror image of the shape you want onto the paper side of the adhesive.
  • Fuse to the back of the fabric.
  • Cut out the piece.
  • Peel off the paper.
  • Fuse in in place.
  • Secure the edges with stitching.

You can watch the video here.

In that video I mentioned (repeatedly) that fusible adhesive can feel stiff.

I also talked about how the satin stitching that’s usually recommended around the raw edges often looks kind of clunky and heavy to me.

But then did a test of some new fusible adhesives I found – a test where I really liked the results! You can read that here.

Those results led me to give fusible adhesive another try in a real quilt – and I spent some time refining my technique (and the way I design my patterns) to suit these awesome new products.

So here are some much more detailed instructions showing how I applique with fusible adhesive. I’m so in love with this technique – especially when combined with Quilt As You Go – that I use it now for all my quilts.

All the images you see here are from the Cuddly Cats quilt pattern.

Update!

In 2020 I changed the way I design my templates, to make my patterns easier to use for people with electric cutting machines. That means a little change in how I do things.

I’m in the process of updating all my patterns to the new method, but right now there’s a mix.

If your pattern does NOT include an SVG file for use with cutting machines, use the method below. You can tell at a glance by looking at your reversed and exploded template pieces. If any of the exterior lines are dotted lines, that’s an older pattern. Use the method below.

If your pattern includes an SVG file, and all the pattern templates are bounded by solid lines, with dotted lines only inside a solid boundary – that’s a newer pattern format. Use the instructions here.

So here’s how to do it – in all the detail.

Step 1 – Trace (or Print)

Trace the pattern onto the paper side of the fusible adhesive.  I use Heat & Bond Lite printable fusible adhesive so I just print out the page. Easy peasy.

How to Applique with Fusible Adhesive - instructions from Shiny Happy World

Let me just pause here for a second and tell you how much this one thing – printable fusible adhesive – has changed the way I feel about my quilting. I despise tracing (I believe I’ve mentioned that here before – ahem) so being able to simply print out the page with all the pieces on it (and labelled, too!) is an absolute joy. I know the printable sheets are expensive and I just don’t care. I’ll never go back.

Make sure you’re tracing the mirror image of the pattern. It should be clearly stated on the pattern. If it hasn’t been reversed for you, you’ll need to put it face down in a window and trace off the back side so you get a mirror image.

All of my patterns are already reversed for fusible applique – and each page says that.

If you’re tracing, be sure to trace the face too. You’ll need that there for Step 5.

Step 2 – Rough Cut

Rough cut around each shape. Leave a little bit extra all the way around – with a little extra extra (at least 1/4 inch) where there’s a dotted line.

How to Applique with Fusible Adhesive - instructions from Shiny Happy World

On my patterns I use a dotted line to show you where a piece tucks behind another piece (like the ears tucking behind the head on this cat). That’s why you leave a little extra there.

Step 3 – Fuse to Fabric

Fuse each pattern piece to the wrong side of the fabric. Follow the instructions on whatever brand adhesive you’re using – they all vary in temperature used, with or without steam, and how long it should take

How to Applique with Fusible Adhesive - instructions from Shiny Happy World

Step 4 – Cut

Cut around each piece. Cut directly on the solid lines.

How to Applique with Fusible Adhesive - instructions from Shiny Happy World

Leave a little seam allowance past the dotted lines – remember – those bits will tuck under another piece.

How to Applique with Fusible Adhesive - instructions from Shiny Happy World

Here’s a close up of the cut ears so you can see better. The bit below the dotted line is the bit that will tuck behind the head.

Step 5 – Trace Details

Remember when I told you to make sure you traced the face in Step 1? Now you’re going to use that. Hold the face up to a window so the light shines through it. You’ll be able to see the facial features through all but the darkest fabrics, and the adhesive and backing will stabilize the fabric so you can trace on it without it crinkling up.

How to Applique with Fusible Adhesive - instructions from Shiny Happy World

I trace just inside the eyes and nose, right on the lines for the mouth and whiskers.

If I were going to embroider the eyes and nose I’d trace right on those lines too.

Of course – you can trace the whole face in a good quality fabric marker and be done with it. It’s durable and easy and the quilt police will not come and arrest you if you “cheat” and draw on your quilt.

Step 6 – Quilt Block (optional)

If you’re doing Quilt As You Go (I did) then you can quilt your block before adding the applique. So easy!

How to Applique with Fusible Adhesive - instructions from Shiny Happy World

Layer the block with a piece of 100% cotton batting. Quilt any pattern you like!  Find all the Quilt As You Go tutorials here.

You can also find color-coordinated fabric squares with the quilting lines printed right on the fabric here.

If you’d rather do the quilting later, simply skip this step.

Step 7 – Fuse to Block

Peel off the paper backing and arrange the pieces on your background block. Tuck the ears behind the head. (Remember – all the dotted lines indicate where pieces tuck behind other pieces.)

How to Applique with Fusible Adhesive - instructions from Shiny Happy World

Fuse the pieces in place, following the instructions on whatever brand of fusible adhesive you’re using.

This is why they call it fusible applique. So easy!

Step 8 – Stitch

Stitch around all the pieces. Satin stitch is pretty common – and that’s what I demonstrated in this video. But I think it’s often too heavy and looks clunky. I much prefer the simple straight stitch I did here – nothing fancy.

How to Applique with Fusible Adhesive - instructions from Shiny Happy World

I get a LOT of questions about how durable the simple straight stitch is. So many that I wrote a whole blog post about it, complete with photos of a quilt after it had been in constant use for over a year! You can read that here.

I especially like it in black thread. I love the cartoony effect. 🙂 I stitched around the eyes and nose too. I tried to edit the photo so you could see that black on black stitching more clearly – but you might need to click on the photo to see it bigger.

To get a slightly thicker line for the mouth and whiskers, I stitched over those lines three times. There’s a post here with tips for this kind of sketchy outlining.

You could opt to use thicker thread instead. I demonstrated sewing with different thread weights here.

Done! Now just make a bunch of them and you have a quilt. 🙂

Easy and playful and fun! That’s my kind of quilting! Fusible applique makes all the difference!

Here are links to all the posts showing how to applique with fusible adhesive – my favorite method. It’s fast and easy and (with the right materials) it holds up beautifully to rough use and repeated washing.

Here are links to special posts about eyes.

Here are links to some extra fun things you can do with your applique.

Other Applique Methods

Finished with this topic?

Return to the Let’s Make a Quilt main Table of Contents.

Move on to the lessons about outline stitching.

Video – Quilt As You Go #3 – Finishing Your Quilt

QAYG How to Assemble and Finish Your Quilt - video

I HAD to use the post-washing version of this quilt for the video image. Look at all the crinkle! I would never have done quilting that dense without using the Quilt As You Go method. There would have been too much swearing and back pain. 😛

But with Quilt As You Go, look what I was able to do! The machine quilting on the final version of this quilt – the part where I was quilting the whole quilt, not individual blocks – took exactly 30 minutes. I can do anything for 30 minutes! And quilting the individual blocks was so much fun!

Enough gushing about the general technique. Here’s the video showing how to attach the backing to your quilt. It’s pretty much exactly like layering and basting a regular quilt, only you don’t have to worry about the batting. I tried to answer in this video a lot of questions people had after watching the first QAYG video. Really – it is so, SO easy and fun!

Questions I know you’re going to have. . .

1. The Cat Quilt pattern is available here.

2. The cuddle fleece I used on the back is exactly what I carry in my shop. It’s no longer available, but there’s info here about a good substitute I found. I include yardage info for different sizes in the pattern, and also in this post about choosing fabric for the quilt. You could use other soft and cuddly fabrics too – but I know for sure that this wears really well. I wouldn’t use polar fleece. Even the no-pill stuff will pill eventually and you don’t want the back of a quilt you worked so hard on (and that is sure to be well-loved) to look yucky in a few months or even a year.

Here are my posts about trimming quilt blocks.

And here are my posts about how to assemble Quilt As You Go Blocks

Finished with this topic?

Return to the Let’s Make a Quilt main Table of Contents.

Move on to the lessons about basting and final quilting.

Happy quilting!

What is Quilt As You Go (QAYG) and How Do You Do It?

What is QAYG and How Do You Do It? video

Quilt As You Go (QAYG) is a technique that’s been around for a long time – but I’ve never tried it until now. There are a few different techniques floating around the internet – including a really common one that uses bias tape and is VERY fussy and irritating, in my opinion. I’ve been playing around with the method for a couple of months now and this is the way I like to do it. 🙂

The video has more detail, but here it is in a nutshell. . .

The hardest part of machine quilting is any time you change direction. That’s pretty limiting. There are plenty of times when a grid or a series of parallel lines is just perfect for a quilt I’m making, but sometimes I want the background quilting to be a little more fun. This is especially the case with my applique quilts, where what I really want to do is quilt around each face and then do something fun to add texture to the background.

That’s when QAYG is perfect.

You layer a piece of batting with each block and then quilt just that block in the machine. It’s small and easy to spin around in all kinds of fun patterns. Whee!

You join all the blocks together after they’re quilted, and then just do some easy grid quilting in the final big quilt.

So here’s the first video in the series. . .

See how easy that is? There’s still some machine quilting, but it’s the easiest kind. And the rest of it opens up a whole new world of easy peasy zigzags and triangles and wobbly waves.

I know some of you already do all that stuff with free-motion quilting. I tried that once and it was a disaster. I’ll try it again someday when I have the magical Bernina Stitch Regulator – I’ve tried that at a show and it does make it super easy. But in the meantime – this is the method I use.

So think of my QAYG method as giving you the look of free-motion quilting without having to learn that tricky technique.

Happy quilting!


If you want to learn more about how I do Quilt As You Go, there’s a much longer post with WAY more detail and lots of links to additional info and tutorials.

Quilt As You Go – Everything You Need to Know

If you’re ready to jump in, here’s a post with some tips for choosing a pattern.

Choosing a Quilt Pattern

Making Playful Bits for 3D Applique

How to Add Playful Bits to Your Applique

What’s 3D applique?

Well, usually when you applique, you sew the fabric bits in place around all the edges.

But sometimes it’s fun to make them flappy. 🙂 It’s a way to add a playful element to your applique!

If you look closely at the spikes on that monster above, you’ll see that they’re only attached at the base. That gives them some fun dimension – and makes them fun to play with.

I did the same thing with the teeth on this monster.

Toothy Monster from the Scary Scares quilt at Shiny Happy World

Today I’m going to give you some general instructions you can use with any applique pattern.

I’ve been working on refreshing the Peekaboo Bear quilt pattern and decided I needed to take new step-by-step photos. I didn’t want to make a whole new quilt, but Jo asked for a new pillow and that was just right.

I decided to make the ears flappy – with satin linings on the front. Oooh! Satin! Fancy! This would be especially fun to do on a baby quilt where that satin can be a soothing sleepytime thing. 🙂

Peekaboo Bear Pillow from Shiny Happy World

Here’s what you do. . .

Playful applique ears - step one

Cut out the freezer paper pattern as usual.

Fuse it to the back of a piece of fabric, as usual. But don’t cut the pieces out!

Instead, layer that piece of fabric with another one, right sides together. Sew around the freezer paper piece, leaving unsewn where it will tuck under another applique piece. In this case, I sewed around the tops of the ears and left the base unsewn. I removed the second freezer paper ear so you could see the stitching more clearly.

Playful applique ears - step two

Now cut out the ears, leaving a little less than 1/4 inch seam allowance all around the shape.

Turn the ear right side out and press it flat.

Voila! You have a finished shape, ready for applique!

Playful applique ears - step three

Tuck the shape in place and stitch it down. You’ll sew the larger piece (in this case the head) in place, right over the base of the ear. Since the rest of the ear edges are all finished, they don’t need to be stitched down.

You have a flappy cute ear!

Peekaboo Bear pillow from Shiny Happy World

I use this 3D applique technique most often on ears, hair and teeth, but it’s great for any little flappy bit. How about a lolling tongue on a puppy dog? Or a collar on a shirt? Or the wing of a bird? Or flower petals?

If you want to make a larger piece that’s flappy, but not floppy, you can use some soft foam inside. I give instructions for that here.

Have fun with it!

Here are links to all the posts showing how to applique with fusible adhesive – my favorite method. It’s fast and easy and (with the right materials) it holds up beautifully to rough use and repeated washing.

Here are links to special posts about eyes.

Here are links to some extra fun things you can do with your applique.

Other Applique Methods

Finished with this topic?

Return to the Let’s Make a Quilt main Table of Contents.

Move on to the lessons about outline stitching.

Happy quilting!

Playing with Thread Weight

Playing with Thread Weight

I’ve been working on some cat applique blocks for a kitty quilt that matches these puppies. I’ve been posting some of the blocks as I finish them – and I’ve been getting some questions about them.

Maurice - cat applique pattern from Shiny Happy World

All of the blocks so far use fusible adhesive. It’s so quick and easy and I LOVE using the printable sheets. They’re worth every penny (in my tracing-hating opinion). I use Heat & Bond Lite weight for all my quilts.

All of the stitching is done by machine. Every bit of it. The eyes and nose are appliqued on and stitched in black thread – just a simple straight stitch. I stitched around the edges in a simple straight stitch too – in black thread for a loose, cartoony effect. I love it!

(For those who wonder if outlining your applique with simple straight stitching is durable enough – here’s a post showing one of my daughter’s quilts after over a year of use and many trips through the washer and dryer.)

And then there’s the big question from the folks who are clearly zooming in on the image for a closer look.

How are you getting a thicker line on the face and whiskers?

Very observant, my friends!

I’ve been doing some experimenting and I’m getting the thicker line in two ways. Sometimes I stitch over the same line three times. And sometimes I use thicker thread. I’m demonstrating both with these Oscar blocks.

Oscar - kitty applique pattern from Shiny Happy World

In the brown cat I used thicker black 12 weight thread for all the stitching. In the orange cat I used regular all-purpose thread once around the body, then three times for the whiskers and mouth.

You can’t just change the thread weight all willy-nilly. In my very first sewing project I used some really thick stuff called buttonhole twist and had all kinds of problems with it. I had just grabbed it because it was a small spool and I liked the color. I didn’t know there were different kinds of threads!

Now I know – and I did some deliberate experimentation with some spools in different thread weights I brought back from Quilt Market. Here are the results. . .

Thread Weight Test

This is a really big photo I loaded up, so you can click on it to zoom in super close.

Just like needles, thread sizes get smaller as the numbers get bigger.

50 wt

This is crazy fine thread – noticeably thinner than the basic all-purpose stuff you can get at any of the big box stores. Use a thinner needle with it (I used a Microtex/Sharp size 80/12). You’ll get a nice, subtle thin line of stitching. This would be great with thinner fabrics or subtle quilting – like stitch in the ditch where the thread won’t be so much in the spotlight.

40 wt

A little bit heavier than the 50 wt, this feels like the most “normal” thread in the bunch. I used the same needle as the 50 wt.

28 wt

This one was noticeably thicker than the others – and is where I started having trouble with a couple of skipped stitches. It turns out I just needed to sew a little slower which, frankly, I’d be doing anyway if I was stitching around an applique shape instead of just zipping down a quick row of straight stitches to see what it looked like. I did an extra couple of rows of stitching here to get the hang of it and you can see the results – no more skipping.

For the 28 wt I used 50 wt in the bobbin and a new needle – a topstitch size 90/14. I like it. But I love the next one.

12 wt

This is the equivalent in thickness of two strands of embroidery floss. If I were hand-embroidering these faces it’s what I’d use – but I didn’t know you could use such thick thread in the machine. What a revelation!

Just like the 28 wt – use lighter weight thread in the bobbin and a topstitch needle size 90/14. You’ll probably need to play with the tension just a tiny bit since the top and bobbin threads are so different. Stitch up a quick sample using the same weight batting you’ll be using and different color threads in the top and the bobbin. Adjust the tension as needed until the bobbin thread doesn’t show on the top and the top thread doesn’t show on the bottom. In this sample you can see the tiny green specks of bobbin thread showing on the top. It’s easy to fix. Make a note of the new tension and use that every time you’re topstitching with your heavy threads and you won’t need to test it again.

So which one is better – thicker thread or more passes?

I think this is totally  a matter of preference. Scroll back up to the two cats side by side. Click on the image to see it bigger and zoom in. Which do you like better?

For me it will probably vary from project to project. The heavier thread weight is certainly faster – you’re only sewing everything once. But I also really like the slightly sketchy look of sewing the same lines more than once. It’s impossible to get them perfectly lined up all the time, so the final result really looks a lot like my sketchbook. There’s a post here with more information about how to deliberately get that sketchy line.

I think they’re both going to have a place in my bag of tools. And now they’re in yours, too!

Here are links to all my posts about outline stitching.

Finished with this topic?

Return to the Let’s Make a Quilt main Table of Contents.

Move on to the lessons about how to trim and assemble your blocks.

Happy sewing!